Readers´s Digest Version ...
I can´t keep a secret ... WE MADE IT!
Markus and I arrived in Ushuaia on Jan 19th at around 10 15 am local time. After taking a few celebratory photos and shaking hands we promptly got back on our bikes and headed to the end of the Argentinean highway system, which is another 20 km down the road through the beautiful Tierra del Fuego National Park. We arrived back again in Ushuaia and faced the daunting task of finding a vacant hostel (which we finally did).
The ride across Tierra del Fuego was not easy. However, at times it seemed as there was an invisible force driving us towards our destination. With courtesy that only the Swiss can provide it was pointed out that this invisible force actually has a name, it comes from the energy of the sun due to thermal imbalances and is called "Wind". Yes, thanks for pointing that out to me Markus! We faced winds up to 80 or 90 km/hr in wide open "pampa" (plains). The other challenges were finding some type of lodging and water sources.
The southern tip of Tierra del Fuego becomes quite mountainous and provided very scenic riding.
Here´s the "play by play" on how we blitzed Tierra del Fuego.
Day 84 (Jan 15). Punta Arenas to Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego
We got off the ferry at around 6 30 pm and started riding for a few hours. We camped in the open plains with the protection of a slight hill which provided some protection as the wind picked up in the evening.
Total time 6 hrs 56 min (includes ferry), ride time 3 hrs 2 min, 60 km, elev gain 742 m, elev loss 667 m (all gravel road) .
Day 85 (Jan 16). Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego to San Sebastián, Argentina
Today was the day of real WIND. Winds so strong pots, pans and small domestic animals were picked up by the wind. OK, exageratting a little but I assure you, sand grains hitting your face at 80 km/hr did hurt. We had tail winds of about 50 to 80 km/hr. Up to 90 km/hr maybe at times. It was a wild ride. Both our big Winnabegos (motor homes) went into the ditch this day. Markus´ big rig went down on a corner as a gust pushed him into loose gravel. I followed suit about 20 km later under similar circumstances. It was wild because we would actually be going about 30 km-hr and braking. Keep in mind this is a gravel road with twist and turns. Both of us escaped unscathed. First wipe out of the trip (felt like a goalie losing a shut-out late in the third period).
Oh yes, and I repaired a flat in this wind. Felt like a solar storm on Mars.
Total time 5 hrs 55 min, ride 3 hrs 56 min, 105 km, elev gain 985 m, elev loss 1,008 m. Average speed was 26.8 km/hr (which was close to a record high ... and on all gravel road ... and braking)
Day 86 (Jan 17). San Sebastián to Viamonte Ranch
Climatic conditions were favorable. The winds had died down. We were heading due south today and prevailing winds would have been "pure cross". Fortunately, it did not transpire.
The real story of today was the lodging at the working Viamonte Ranch (sheep mostly). This large ranch, built in 1902, provided us with a rustic shelter. The first cabin they provided us housed a dead cat in which we literally shovelled out. The odor still didn´t go away. Fortunately, the "Ranch Boss" gave us another abandoned cabin to stay it. It had a nice wood-burning stove in which we used for warmth and cooking. Had a good chat with some of the ranch hands (actually students from Buenos Aires).
Total time 6 hrs 34 min, ride 5 hrs 14 min, 122 km, elevation gain 406 m, elevation loss 406 m.
Day 87 (Jan 18). Viamonte Ranch to Haruwen Refugio (Cabin)
The terrain started to change as we reached the foothills of the mountains in the south of Tierra del Fuego. The weather was great but we had to head west, directly into the prevailing winds which fortunately were not as strong due to the cover of mountains and trees.
We found a cabin which was available for rent in which no other travellers occupied. Just as we were ready to pitch our tent we came across this place. Hey, for $10 bucks who´s going to pass it up?
Today was tough by the way as it served up a lot of climbing. We wanted to make sure that the final destination was a slam dunk for the next day. With that said ... nothing is a slam dunk in this part of the world. R-E-S-P-E-C-T is what you give Mother Nature. Otherwise, the score will always be 1 to nil (and not in your favor).
Total time 9 hrs 4 min, ride time 6 hrs 57 min, 137 km, elevation gain 1,321 m, elev loss 1,190 m.
Day 88 (Jan 19). Haruwen Refugio (Cabin) to Ushuaia
We got very lucky with the weather. It was a beautiful day which made the riding extremely pleasant. We were only 35 km out of Ushuaia. However, we "rode past" Ushuaia for another 20 km (or so) to where all other cyclist finish their rides, which is the end of the Argentinean highway system (the farthest point south in Argentina). This last 20 km is mostly through the Tierra del Fuego National Park (you´ll see the photos).
It is only the southern-most region of Tierra del Fuego in which there are mountains and glaciers. The northern part is wide open plains.
Total time 6 hrs 44 min, ride time 4 hrs 55 min, 86 km, elevation gain 1,072 m, elev loss 1,124 m.
Coming Up ...
Things like getting caught up on personal hygeine. Washing clothes. Maybe some trekking. My trekking buddy Tim Pitt from the UK is in town. I am trying to track that tough bloke down!
SOME of the BIGGEST and BEST SURPRISES of the TRIP
... The biggest and best surprise by far was having so many people travel with me and keep me company! It was HUGE fun having so many people along (fun-factor hovering between 10 and 11 ... out of 10). It was a huge honor for me to have your attention. I graciously and humbly thank you. I loved reading all of your comments and e-mails.
... Another big surprise was that silly chro-moly framed bike, racks, 35 mm tires, panniers and components withstanding some SERIOUS abuse.
Total Distance ...
And the wheels stopped rolling at 6,906 km. More than expected due to some serious zig-zagging between Chile and Argentina.
Photos ...
I downloaded about 35 photos ... I hope that you like them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
I will be visiting the blog and posting again shortly.
PPS.
I can also be reached at darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
I am embarking on a bike tour from La Paz, Bolivia to Tierra del Fuego. I should be on my bike by October 24th. I have three months to complete this journey. I am doing this trip solo ... unless of course I get any last minute (or last second) offers from friends and family who wish to accompany me. The following map shows the approximate route I will be taking. Along the way, I hope to have time to do a little bit of trekking and perhaps enjoy some fine Chilean wine.

Saturday, January 19, 2008
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Link to More Photos....
Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
About Me
- Darryl Scott
- Mechanical engineer working in the oil & gas industry. In my free time, generally, I can be found on a bike or with skis strapped to my feet.
8 comments:
Felicitaiones D!!!! Comparto contigo esta emocion de llegar a la meta, bien hecho gringo! Gracias por estar con nosotros durante esta tu gran aventura y por llevarnos a lugares tan remotos y maravillosos.
Mil abrazos,
E.
Congratulations Darryl ...you crossed the finish line!! Well done!! The entire journey was quite remarkable. Thanks for letting us live vicariously through you. You are inspiring :)
Best Regards,
Julie
Congratulations!
It was a long journey and you did it!
Everyone here enjoyed reading your blog and following along as you made your way from La Paz to Ushuaia.
Absolutely amazing. Well done.
Best,
Bryn
You did an amazing JOURNEY DArryl!
We so enviously followed your trip wishing we were there but YOU DID it!! Seriously how are you going to survive in Calgary after that adventure? I know, you will be busy planning out the next adventure, because it does not look like you need much recovery time.
Looking forward to seeing you,
much love,
your Family in Edmonton.
Congratulations Darryl,
The pic's look great but not quite as good as our usual bike ride along the bow river into work but you can look forward to that one soon - this morning's was a balmy minus 29 with the wind. It's time to start hearing more about the Chilean wines that you talked about in your introduction.
Cheers
Grant
What can I say that hasn't been said yet?
Felicidades!!!
Besos,
Ana
First class upgrade!
Darryl, we upgraded you to first class on your flights from Santiago through Dallas to Calgary.
Please relax, sit back in your seat, enjoy a glass (or two) of champagne and reflect on an excellent 6,906 km ride from La Paz through to Ushuaia.
You earned the upgrade!
Cheers,
Jo-Anne and Bryan
Mek,
Bueno!
Rags
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