Hello Dear Friends and Family,
If anybody is still out there listening to an road-weary traveller I am still here in Ushuaia! I do pass on a HUGE greeting to everybody and wish to pass on a few stories ... some of them may be true.
I have had the pleasure to spend time with Tim (my buddy from Britain) and Markus (my Swiss wing-man on two wheels) in a more relaxing nature. We have been, at times, "chilling out" at the very cool Hostel Yakush and at other times tromping around the mountains around Ushuaia. Went on two fantastic excursions in the mountains.
A few more details ...
Day 89 (Jan 20). Martial Glacier
Went on a day up to the base of the Martial Glacier. This was an expedition in which two civilians went along with us (Carolina and Guichi, two kind Argentinian gals who were staying at the same hostel). Tim was showing off some of "anti gravity tricks" ... which by the way are very cool! (gotta see the pics).
Day 90 (Jan 21). Culture Day
We went to a museum of all things. A lot of focus on Antarctic expeditions and establishing settlements in Tierra del Fuego.
Day 91 (Jan 22). Ascent of Cerro Roy (Mount Roy)
Tim, Markus and myself donned the hiking boots for a little bit more of a serious excursion. Ascending a final snow ramp with a little climbing at the end presented the fun and challenge for the day. Beers and "back patting" followed later in the evening.
Day 92 (Jan 23). Rest and Get Ready
Markus and myself prepared our gear for the next excursion.
Days 93 and 94 (Jan 24 and 25). Two day Trek of the Valdivieso Circuit (50 km, 2,200 m elev gain)
This was a challenging trek due to a number of factors ... first off the trail was non-existant at times, deadfall due to ravaging beavers destroying parts of the park, Day 2 was done in the fog. I guess this last factor was due to our own demise ... the trek is described as requiring four days ... we did it in two days. Two long days.
OK, I´ll try to be quick (but it´s difficult for me) ... Day 1 of the trek was a 12 hour day in which we put a serious dent into the amount of terrain covered. We ended up right in the heart of the beautiful Fuegian Mountain Range (Tierra del Fuego Mtns). The big challenge was extremely slow initial progress due to constantly climbing over deadfall and "bush wacking".
Day 2 of the trip had different challenges ... with only about 22 km left with thought we were "golden" ... however, we woke up and our campsite was COMPLETELY "socked in" (aka "foggy-doggy"). So, Markus shows off his orienteering prowess big time! With a compass, 1 to 50,000 map and the Lonely Planet route description we warily left our camp. It was like going on "treasure hunt" looking for the next landmark. Visibility was about 20 to 30 meters. We hiked like that for about the first three hours (very slow progess as you might have gathered - only made it a few kilometers). We eventually found the last col (Valdivieso Col). After descending into a different valley the fog eventually "broke". Pheeeew.
The last challenge was a "little deviation" from the route which put us on the wrong side of the final river (Río Olivia). It forced us off course. We had a difficult time crossing the river because it was too deep and the current too strong. We eventually found a wide enough spot. Added to the excitement (and to the time required).
Total trekking time was about 22 hours over two days. Fun factor 10.82 (out of 10).
Day 95 (Jan 26).
Internet, laundry, resting, packing up.
Day 96 (Jan 27).
I start my journey back home.
Some questions were raised ...
Fine wine it has not been ... maybe some "economical" (read cheap) red wines have been consumed. Hey, I´m a budget traveller.
Photos ...
More photos are posted for your viewing pleasure if you so desire.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
It continues to be a grand pleasure to be travelling at the End of the World.... and to have your company!
PPS.
I am sure that you know that some terms don´t apply ... like "It´s not the end of the world". Just doesn´t make sense down here.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Days 84 to 88 Punta Arenas and Across to Ushuaia!
Readers´s Digest Version ...
I can´t keep a secret ... WE MADE IT!
Markus and I arrived in Ushuaia on Jan 19th at around 10 15 am local time. After taking a few celebratory photos and shaking hands we promptly got back on our bikes and headed to the end of the Argentinean highway system, which is another 20 km down the road through the beautiful Tierra del Fuego National Park. We arrived back again in Ushuaia and faced the daunting task of finding a vacant hostel (which we finally did).
The ride across Tierra del Fuego was not easy. However, at times it seemed as there was an invisible force driving us towards our destination. With courtesy that only the Swiss can provide it was pointed out that this invisible force actually has a name, it comes from the energy of the sun due to thermal imbalances and is called "Wind". Yes, thanks for pointing that out to me Markus! We faced winds up to 80 or 90 km/hr in wide open "pampa" (plains). The other challenges were finding some type of lodging and water sources.
The southern tip of Tierra del Fuego becomes quite mountainous and provided very scenic riding.
Here´s the "play by play" on how we blitzed Tierra del Fuego.
Day 84 (Jan 15). Punta Arenas to Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego
We got off the ferry at around 6 30 pm and started riding for a few hours. We camped in the open plains with the protection of a slight hill which provided some protection as the wind picked up in the evening.
Total time 6 hrs 56 min (includes ferry), ride time 3 hrs 2 min, 60 km, elev gain 742 m, elev loss 667 m (all gravel road) .
Day 85 (Jan 16). Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego to San Sebastián, Argentina
Today was the day of real WIND. Winds so strong pots, pans and small domestic animals were picked up by the wind. OK, exageratting a little but I assure you, sand grains hitting your face at 80 km/hr did hurt. We had tail winds of about 50 to 80 km/hr. Up to 90 km/hr maybe at times. It was a wild ride. Both our big Winnabegos (motor homes) went into the ditch this day. Markus´ big rig went down on a corner as a gust pushed him into loose gravel. I followed suit about 20 km later under similar circumstances. It was wild because we would actually be going about 30 km-hr and braking. Keep in mind this is a gravel road with twist and turns. Both of us escaped unscathed. First wipe out of the trip (felt like a goalie losing a shut-out late in the third period).
Oh yes, and I repaired a flat in this wind. Felt like a solar storm on Mars.
Total time 5 hrs 55 min, ride 3 hrs 56 min, 105 km, elev gain 985 m, elev loss 1,008 m. Average speed was 26.8 km/hr (which was close to a record high ... and on all gravel road ... and braking)
Day 86 (Jan 17). San Sebastián to Viamonte Ranch
Climatic conditions were favorable. The winds had died down. We were heading due south today and prevailing winds would have been "pure cross". Fortunately, it did not transpire.
The real story of today was the lodging at the working Viamonte Ranch (sheep mostly). This large ranch, built in 1902, provided us with a rustic shelter. The first cabin they provided us housed a dead cat in which we literally shovelled out. The odor still didn´t go away. Fortunately, the "Ranch Boss" gave us another abandoned cabin to stay it. It had a nice wood-burning stove in which we used for warmth and cooking. Had a good chat with some of the ranch hands (actually students from Buenos Aires).
Total time 6 hrs 34 min, ride 5 hrs 14 min, 122 km, elevation gain 406 m, elevation loss 406 m.
Day 87 (Jan 18). Viamonte Ranch to Haruwen Refugio (Cabin)
The terrain started to change as we reached the foothills of the mountains in the south of Tierra del Fuego. The weather was great but we had to head west, directly into the prevailing winds which fortunately were not as strong due to the cover of mountains and trees.
We found a cabin which was available for rent in which no other travellers occupied. Just as we were ready to pitch our tent we came across this place. Hey, for $10 bucks who´s going to pass it up?
Today was tough by the way as it served up a lot of climbing. We wanted to make sure that the final destination was a slam dunk for the next day. With that said ... nothing is a slam dunk in this part of the world. R-E-S-P-E-C-T is what you give Mother Nature. Otherwise, the score will always be 1 to nil (and not in your favor).
Total time 9 hrs 4 min, ride time 6 hrs 57 min, 137 km, elevation gain 1,321 m, elev loss 1,190 m.
Day 88 (Jan 19). Haruwen Refugio (Cabin) to Ushuaia
We got very lucky with the weather. It was a beautiful day which made the riding extremely pleasant. We were only 35 km out of Ushuaia. However, we "rode past" Ushuaia for another 20 km (or so) to where all other cyclist finish their rides, which is the end of the Argentinean highway system (the farthest point south in Argentina). This last 20 km is mostly through the Tierra del Fuego National Park (you´ll see the photos).
It is only the southern-most region of Tierra del Fuego in which there are mountains and glaciers. The northern part is wide open plains.
Total time 6 hrs 44 min, ride time 4 hrs 55 min, 86 km, elevation gain 1,072 m, elev loss 1,124 m.
Coming Up ...
Things like getting caught up on personal hygeine. Washing clothes. Maybe some trekking. My trekking buddy Tim Pitt from the UK is in town. I am trying to track that tough bloke down!
SOME of the BIGGEST and BEST SURPRISES of the TRIP
... The biggest and best surprise by far was having so many people travel with me and keep me company! It was HUGE fun having so many people along (fun-factor hovering between 10 and 11 ... out of 10). It was a huge honor for me to have your attention. I graciously and humbly thank you. I loved reading all of your comments and e-mails.
... Another big surprise was that silly chro-moly framed bike, racks, 35 mm tires, panniers and components withstanding some SERIOUS abuse.
Total Distance ...
And the wheels stopped rolling at 6,906 km. More than expected due to some serious zig-zagging between Chile and Argentina.
Photos ...
I downloaded about 35 photos ... I hope that you like them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
I will be visiting the blog and posting again shortly.
PPS.
I can also be reached at darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
I can´t keep a secret ... WE MADE IT!
Markus and I arrived in Ushuaia on Jan 19th at around 10 15 am local time. After taking a few celebratory photos and shaking hands we promptly got back on our bikes and headed to the end of the Argentinean highway system, which is another 20 km down the road through the beautiful Tierra del Fuego National Park. We arrived back again in Ushuaia and faced the daunting task of finding a vacant hostel (which we finally did).
The ride across Tierra del Fuego was not easy. However, at times it seemed as there was an invisible force driving us towards our destination. With courtesy that only the Swiss can provide it was pointed out that this invisible force actually has a name, it comes from the energy of the sun due to thermal imbalances and is called "Wind". Yes, thanks for pointing that out to me Markus! We faced winds up to 80 or 90 km/hr in wide open "pampa" (plains). The other challenges were finding some type of lodging and water sources.
The southern tip of Tierra del Fuego becomes quite mountainous and provided very scenic riding.
Here´s the "play by play" on how we blitzed Tierra del Fuego.
Day 84 (Jan 15). Punta Arenas to Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego
We got off the ferry at around 6 30 pm and started riding for a few hours. We camped in the open plains with the protection of a slight hill which provided some protection as the wind picked up in the evening.
Total time 6 hrs 56 min (includes ferry), ride time 3 hrs 2 min, 60 km, elev gain 742 m, elev loss 667 m (all gravel road) .
Day 85 (Jan 16). Camping Somewhere in Tierra del Fuego to San Sebastián, Argentina
Today was the day of real WIND. Winds so strong pots, pans and small domestic animals were picked up by the wind. OK, exageratting a little but I assure you, sand grains hitting your face at 80 km/hr did hurt. We had tail winds of about 50 to 80 km/hr. Up to 90 km/hr maybe at times. It was a wild ride. Both our big Winnabegos (motor homes) went into the ditch this day. Markus´ big rig went down on a corner as a gust pushed him into loose gravel. I followed suit about 20 km later under similar circumstances. It was wild because we would actually be going about 30 km-hr and braking. Keep in mind this is a gravel road with twist and turns. Both of us escaped unscathed. First wipe out of the trip (felt like a goalie losing a shut-out late in the third period).
Oh yes, and I repaired a flat in this wind. Felt like a solar storm on Mars.
Total time 5 hrs 55 min, ride 3 hrs 56 min, 105 km, elev gain 985 m, elev loss 1,008 m. Average speed was 26.8 km/hr (which was close to a record high ... and on all gravel road ... and braking)
Day 86 (Jan 17). San Sebastián to Viamonte Ranch
Climatic conditions were favorable. The winds had died down. We were heading due south today and prevailing winds would have been "pure cross". Fortunately, it did not transpire.
The real story of today was the lodging at the working Viamonte Ranch (sheep mostly). This large ranch, built in 1902, provided us with a rustic shelter. The first cabin they provided us housed a dead cat in which we literally shovelled out. The odor still didn´t go away. Fortunately, the "Ranch Boss" gave us another abandoned cabin to stay it. It had a nice wood-burning stove in which we used for warmth and cooking. Had a good chat with some of the ranch hands (actually students from Buenos Aires).
Total time 6 hrs 34 min, ride 5 hrs 14 min, 122 km, elevation gain 406 m, elevation loss 406 m.
Day 87 (Jan 18). Viamonte Ranch to Haruwen Refugio (Cabin)
The terrain started to change as we reached the foothills of the mountains in the south of Tierra del Fuego. The weather was great but we had to head west, directly into the prevailing winds which fortunately were not as strong due to the cover of mountains and trees.
We found a cabin which was available for rent in which no other travellers occupied. Just as we were ready to pitch our tent we came across this place. Hey, for $10 bucks who´s going to pass it up?
Today was tough by the way as it served up a lot of climbing. We wanted to make sure that the final destination was a slam dunk for the next day. With that said ... nothing is a slam dunk in this part of the world. R-E-S-P-E-C-T is what you give Mother Nature. Otherwise, the score will always be 1 to nil (and not in your favor).
Total time 9 hrs 4 min, ride time 6 hrs 57 min, 137 km, elevation gain 1,321 m, elev loss 1,190 m.
Day 88 (Jan 19). Haruwen Refugio (Cabin) to Ushuaia
We got very lucky with the weather. It was a beautiful day which made the riding extremely pleasant. We were only 35 km out of Ushuaia. However, we "rode past" Ushuaia for another 20 km (or so) to where all other cyclist finish their rides, which is the end of the Argentinean highway system (the farthest point south in Argentina). This last 20 km is mostly through the Tierra del Fuego National Park (you´ll see the photos).
It is only the southern-most region of Tierra del Fuego in which there are mountains and glaciers. The northern part is wide open plains.
Total time 6 hrs 44 min, ride time 4 hrs 55 min, 86 km, elevation gain 1,072 m, elev loss 1,124 m.
Coming Up ...
Things like getting caught up on personal hygeine. Washing clothes. Maybe some trekking. My trekking buddy Tim Pitt from the UK is in town. I am trying to track that tough bloke down!
SOME of the BIGGEST and BEST SURPRISES of the TRIP
... The biggest and best surprise by far was having so many people travel with me and keep me company! It was HUGE fun having so many people along (fun-factor hovering between 10 and 11 ... out of 10). It was a huge honor for me to have your attention. I graciously and humbly thank you. I loved reading all of your comments and e-mails.
... Another big surprise was that silly chro-moly framed bike, racks, 35 mm tires, panniers and components withstanding some SERIOUS abuse.
Total Distance ...
And the wheels stopped rolling at 6,906 km. More than expected due to some serious zig-zagging between Chile and Argentina.
Photos ...
I downloaded about 35 photos ... I hope that you like them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
I will be visiting the blog and posting again shortly.
PPS.
I can also be reached at darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
Monday, January 14, 2008
Days 81 to 83 Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas
Reader´s Digest Version
Prior to departing south we enjoyed some company with a group of American travellers primarily from Colorado (say hello to Mareike, Becky, Jane, Harry, Rob and Chris). They have been doing a lot of trekking and exploring in the Patagonia. We enjoyed a fine meal and conversation together.
Only two days of easy cycling due to nice tail winds have taken us to Punta Arenas.
Day by Day
Day 81. Puerto Natales to Villa Tehuelches
Rode along the open southern Patagonian plains. Had very favorable tail winds. Hoo-rah! Mother nature was very kind. Spent the evening pitching our tents by a grassy stable area that was protected by a walls on two sides. Teeny-tiny pueblo by the way.
Tot time 7 hrs 26 min, ride time 5 hrs 50 min, 148 km, elevation gain 1,089 m, elevation loss 939 m.
Day 82. Villa Tehuelches to Punta Arenas
Again, very nice tail wind. We´ll take it ... with a great big thank you. Punta Arenas is the largest southern city in the region - about 125,000 habitants.
Tot time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 101 km, elevation gain 564 m, elevation loss 733 m.
Day 83. Waiting in Punta Arenas for the Ferry.
No ferry service to the island of Tierra del Fuego until Tuesday, Jan 15th. Forced rest day. OK, ok, a few lattes and pastries never hurt anybody.
Biggest Fears ...
The question was raised ... well, I don´t think I´m any different than you ... biggest fear of course is running out of toilet paper. I do try to manage the supply such that I sleep easier at night. OK, seriously, it is upon my return to home that I won´t be able ween myself off of a non-stop diet of trail mix (or pasta with a can of tuna). Or perhaps that the impression of my bike seat on my rump won´t go away.
Coming Up ...
On Jan 15th we will take a ferry across the Straight of Magellan and arrive at the island of "Tierra del Fuego" in which will be only approximately 500 km away from packing our bikes up. Now, my friend, Brendan (aka "Rags") says the ferry travels don´t count. I will then have to take a "penalty" as I fear such an open water crossing with my bike will risk too much salt water damage to the drive train (chain and cogs).
Distance Travelled ...
The bike computer is saying 6,394 km. A bit of trivia ... I have it calibrated such that it is reading 0.5% low. Close enough, I figure.
Bird-Like Creatures in Water-Proof Tuxedos
These peculiar creatures also go by the name of "Penguins". That is one to remember! We visited one of their colonies about 80 km from Punta Arenas. These formal-clad creatures spend from about Sept to March at this location. They "hang out", ¨meet partners", make babies and raise their young to such an age that they can withstand the open sea.
On a serious note ... all of us tourists should leave these wonderful penguins in peace. Too much invasion of their area. No need to get up close and personal. Would we want them sticking our noses in our homes?
PS.
Please stay with Markus and myself as we "finish off" our wonderful journey. Your company has been absolutely GREAT! Thank you for travelling with me.
And yes ... more photos are posted ...
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Prior to departing south we enjoyed some company with a group of American travellers primarily from Colorado (say hello to Mareike, Becky, Jane, Harry, Rob and Chris). They have been doing a lot of trekking and exploring in the Patagonia. We enjoyed a fine meal and conversation together.
Only two days of easy cycling due to nice tail winds have taken us to Punta Arenas.
Day by Day
Day 81. Puerto Natales to Villa Tehuelches
Rode along the open southern Patagonian plains. Had very favorable tail winds. Hoo-rah! Mother nature was very kind. Spent the evening pitching our tents by a grassy stable area that was protected by a walls on two sides. Teeny-tiny pueblo by the way.
Tot time 7 hrs 26 min, ride time 5 hrs 50 min, 148 km, elevation gain 1,089 m, elevation loss 939 m.
Day 82. Villa Tehuelches to Punta Arenas
Again, very nice tail wind. We´ll take it ... with a great big thank you. Punta Arenas is the largest southern city in the region - about 125,000 habitants.
Tot time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 101 km, elevation gain 564 m, elevation loss 733 m.
Day 83. Waiting in Punta Arenas for the Ferry.
No ferry service to the island of Tierra del Fuego until Tuesday, Jan 15th. Forced rest day. OK, ok, a few lattes and pastries never hurt anybody.
Biggest Fears ...
The question was raised ... well, I don´t think I´m any different than you ... biggest fear of course is running out of toilet paper. I do try to manage the supply such that I sleep easier at night. OK, seriously, it is upon my return to home that I won´t be able ween myself off of a non-stop diet of trail mix (or pasta with a can of tuna). Or perhaps that the impression of my bike seat on my rump won´t go away.
Coming Up ...
On Jan 15th we will take a ferry across the Straight of Magellan and arrive at the island of "Tierra del Fuego" in which will be only approximately 500 km away from packing our bikes up. Now, my friend, Brendan (aka "Rags") says the ferry travels don´t count. I will then have to take a "penalty" as I fear such an open water crossing with my bike will risk too much salt water damage to the drive train (chain and cogs).
Distance Travelled ...
The bike computer is saying 6,394 km. A bit of trivia ... I have it calibrated such that it is reading 0.5% low. Close enough, I figure.
Bird-Like Creatures in Water-Proof Tuxedos
These peculiar creatures also go by the name of "Penguins". That is one to remember! We visited one of their colonies about 80 km from Punta Arenas. These formal-clad creatures spend from about Sept to March at this location. They "hang out", ¨meet partners", make babies and raise their young to such an age that they can withstand the open sea.
On a serious note ... all of us tourists should leave these wonderful penguins in peace. Too much invasion of their area. No need to get up close and personal. Would we want them sticking our noses in our homes?
PS.
Please stay with Markus and myself as we "finish off" our wonderful journey. Your company has been absolutely GREAT! Thank you for travelling with me.
And yes ... more photos are posted ...
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Friday, January 11, 2008
Days 72 to 80 El Calafate - Torres de Paine - Puerto Natales
Reader´s Digest Version ...
It´s been a long time friends and family! First time I have seen a computer since the last update. OK, I´ll say it ... I missed everybody!
After leaving El Calafate we continued to bike south through part of the Argentinean "Pampa" (plains) which is arid, predominately flat (with some rolling hills) and very exposed to the harsh winds of the region. This area is sparsely populated; riding was a mix of pavement and very bumpy gravel roads.
It took us four days to get across this section of Pampa. Of which one complete day was spent simply waiting for the wind to calm down. We hunkered down in a metal shed at tiny regional Argentinean Department of Highways maintenance outpost for two nights. Winds were 50 to 80 km/hr at the peak. The other night was also spent in a metal shed but this time at a Regional Police Outpost. We were very thankful to both the police and highway department for providing us with a sturdier refuge than our flimsy nylon tents (which would likely have been torn to shreds in the harsh winds).
After crossing the Argentinean Pampas we headed west and entered Chile once again (for the fourth time) and we then entered the fabulous Torres del Paine National Park. We spent three days trekking and two days biking through the park. These unique mountains were formed through molten rock seeping through large cracks in the earth. Erosion through glaciers, water, and wind has left spectacular formations in which glaciers dominate the higher areas. Turquoise-green lakes are at the lower elevations. This park is very popular with travellers around the world. It is very well organized and the infrastructure allows for large numbers of people to travel. Both travellers and the Chilean workers were friendly beyond any expectations.
After finishing trekking in Torres del Paine, Markus and I rode south through the park on gravel roads for about 106 km and are now taking a "rest, laundry and internet day" in scenic port town of Puerto Natales.
Day by Day ...
Day 72. El Calafate to Police Outpost Tomás Sosa (Jan 3, 2008)
Spent this evening in a shed. Shelter and water sources are key requirements when crossing the Pampa.
Total time 6 hrs 12 min, ride 4 hrs 53 min, 115 km, elev gain 1,064 m, elev loss 832 m.
Day 73. Police Outpost Tomás Sosa to Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways)
Rough gravel road. At the end of the day the winds started to pick up. I mean really pick up.
Total time 4 hrs 30 min, ride time 3 hrs 55 min, 45 km, elev gain 503 m, elev loss 597 m
Day 74. Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways)
Hunkered down in the metal shed. Winds up to 50 to 80 km/hr and absolutely directly in our direction of travel. Coffee, reading, coffee, reading.
Day 75. Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways) to Torres de Paine (Los Torres refugio)
The winds calmed down and actually reversed direction 180 degrees and helped push us for the first 50 km or so.
Total time 8 hrs 53 min, ride 5 hrs 52 min, 117 km, elev gain 844 m, elev loss 975 m
Day 76. Torres de Paine (Los Torres refugio)
Part I. Trekked up to the "Look out" to the infamous Torres del Paine (three massive vertical monoliths). Can´t miss them in the photos.
Part II. Rode our bikes to the ferry crossing at Lago Pehoé. Made the ferry by about 3 or 4 min. Encountered some tough winds again ... which is the nature of the beast.
Total time 2 hrs 25 min, ride time 2 hrs 13 min, 29 km, elev gain 600 m, elev loss 703 m.
Day 77. Trekking at Torres del Paine
Trekked up to Grey Lake and Glacier. Blustery weather but not bad if you kept moving and had a rain jacket handy.
Day 78. Trekking at Torres del Paine (Camped at "Paine Grande")
Trekked up to the "gem of the park" which is the French Valley. Spectacular scenery. This was a bit of long day. About 34 km hiking over about 9.5 hrs. Slept well that evening.
Day 79. Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
Took the morning ferry across Lake Pehoé and rode south through the park. Eventually making our way to Puerto Natales.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 16 min, 105 km, elev gain 1,543 m, elev loss 1,581 m
Day 80. Puerto Natales (Jan 11, 2008)
Rest, wash, prepare food, internet.
A Few Comments on Argentina ...
Just wanted to provide some well-deserved recognition to a few of the Argentina people that we have met. The genuine friendliness and their desire to share so good conversation has been a lot of fun. This started WAY back in Bariloche. A couple from Córdorba, Graciela and Esteban were extremely friendly and shared breakfast with me. The bike mechanic from "Bike Way" in Bariloche provide the final touches and advice before tackling the "pampas". Laura who resides in Buenos Aires joined Markus, Tim and myself for a fine meal. Most recently, met three more Argentinean travellers (not women!) in the same hostel at Puerto Natales who wanted to know all the technical details about our ride. OK, and their food. Two words: REALLY YUMMY.
Update on Yukito ...
The brazen young Japanese rider who accompanied Markus for several thousand kilometers made a "solo dash" from El Chaltén for Ushuaia on around Dec 29. Yukito chose to give up valuable "site touring points" and took a more direct route for the time advantage. We have JUST received word that he has safely arrived in Ushuaia. Kudos to you my friend! We are glad that you arrived safe and sound. And folks, this young traveller´s journey is not over, he will be taking a excursion to the Antarctic!
Coming Up ...
Markus and I will continue to head south on Jan 12. We have about 720 km left to the final destination. The big challenge will be dealing with the powerful winds. I´ll make one thing clear. When the winds blow really hard riding is NOT possible. Seek shelter. Hunker down. Wait until Mother Nature says you can ride. We are well equipped and a worse case is we build a stone "wind break". Sounds good in theory anyways. Wish us luck please!
Oh yeah, and as you have noticed I have been riding and trekking with the "swift Swiss cycle master", Markus. It seems that the competition has been somewhat SCARED off. Some mornings we found only ourselves in the pelaton.
MORE Photos ...
Have added about 35 photos and made a couple of new albums. I do hope that you enjoy them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
Nice to hear from everybody! It was a grand pleasure to open some e-mails and to see so comments!! Thank you everybody!
It´s been a long time friends and family! First time I have seen a computer since the last update. OK, I´ll say it ... I missed everybody!
After leaving El Calafate we continued to bike south through part of the Argentinean "Pampa" (plains) which is arid, predominately flat (with some rolling hills) and very exposed to the harsh winds of the region. This area is sparsely populated; riding was a mix of pavement and very bumpy gravel roads.
It took us four days to get across this section of Pampa. Of which one complete day was spent simply waiting for the wind to calm down. We hunkered down in a metal shed at tiny regional Argentinean Department of Highways maintenance outpost for two nights. Winds were 50 to 80 km/hr at the peak. The other night was also spent in a metal shed but this time at a Regional Police Outpost. We were very thankful to both the police and highway department for providing us with a sturdier refuge than our flimsy nylon tents (which would likely have been torn to shreds in the harsh winds).
After crossing the Argentinean Pampas we headed west and entered Chile once again (for the fourth time) and we then entered the fabulous Torres del Paine National Park. We spent three days trekking and two days biking through the park. These unique mountains were formed through molten rock seeping through large cracks in the earth. Erosion through glaciers, water, and wind has left spectacular formations in which glaciers dominate the higher areas. Turquoise-green lakes are at the lower elevations. This park is very popular with travellers around the world. It is very well organized and the infrastructure allows for large numbers of people to travel. Both travellers and the Chilean workers were friendly beyond any expectations.
After finishing trekking in Torres del Paine, Markus and I rode south through the park on gravel roads for about 106 km and are now taking a "rest, laundry and internet day" in scenic port town of Puerto Natales.
Day by Day ...
Day 72. El Calafate to Police Outpost Tomás Sosa (Jan 3, 2008)
Spent this evening in a shed. Shelter and water sources are key requirements when crossing the Pampa.
Total time 6 hrs 12 min, ride 4 hrs 53 min, 115 km, elev gain 1,064 m, elev loss 832 m.
Day 73. Police Outpost Tomás Sosa to Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways)
Rough gravel road. At the end of the day the winds started to pick up. I mean really pick up.
Total time 4 hrs 30 min, ride time 3 hrs 55 min, 45 km, elev gain 503 m, elev loss 597 m
Day 74. Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways)
Hunkered down in the metal shed. Winds up to 50 to 80 km/hr and absolutely directly in our direction of travel. Coffee, reading, coffee, reading.
Day 75. Tapi Aike (Dept of Highways) to Torres de Paine (Los Torres refugio)
The winds calmed down and actually reversed direction 180 degrees and helped push us for the first 50 km or so.
Total time 8 hrs 53 min, ride 5 hrs 52 min, 117 km, elev gain 844 m, elev loss 975 m
Day 76. Torres de Paine (Los Torres refugio)
Part I. Trekked up to the "Look out" to the infamous Torres del Paine (three massive vertical monoliths). Can´t miss them in the photos.
Part II. Rode our bikes to the ferry crossing at Lago Pehoé. Made the ferry by about 3 or 4 min. Encountered some tough winds again ... which is the nature of the beast.
Total time 2 hrs 25 min, ride time 2 hrs 13 min, 29 km, elev gain 600 m, elev loss 703 m.
Day 77. Trekking at Torres del Paine
Trekked up to Grey Lake and Glacier. Blustery weather but not bad if you kept moving and had a rain jacket handy.
Day 78. Trekking at Torres del Paine (Camped at "Paine Grande")
Trekked up to the "gem of the park" which is the French Valley. Spectacular scenery. This was a bit of long day. About 34 km hiking over about 9.5 hrs. Slept well that evening.
Day 79. Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
Took the morning ferry across Lake Pehoé and rode south through the park. Eventually making our way to Puerto Natales.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 16 min, 105 km, elev gain 1,543 m, elev loss 1,581 m
Day 80. Puerto Natales (Jan 11, 2008)
Rest, wash, prepare food, internet.
A Few Comments on Argentina ...
Just wanted to provide some well-deserved recognition to a few of the Argentina people that we have met. The genuine friendliness and their desire to share so good conversation has been a lot of fun. This started WAY back in Bariloche. A couple from Córdorba, Graciela and Esteban were extremely friendly and shared breakfast with me. The bike mechanic from "Bike Way" in Bariloche provide the final touches and advice before tackling the "pampas". Laura who resides in Buenos Aires joined Markus, Tim and myself for a fine meal. Most recently, met three more Argentinean travellers (not women!) in the same hostel at Puerto Natales who wanted to know all the technical details about our ride. OK, and their food. Two words: REALLY YUMMY.
Update on Yukito ...
The brazen young Japanese rider who accompanied Markus for several thousand kilometers made a "solo dash" from El Chaltén for Ushuaia on around Dec 29. Yukito chose to give up valuable "site touring points" and took a more direct route for the time advantage. We have JUST received word that he has safely arrived in Ushuaia. Kudos to you my friend! We are glad that you arrived safe and sound. And folks, this young traveller´s journey is not over, he will be taking a excursion to the Antarctic!
Coming Up ...
Markus and I will continue to head south on Jan 12. We have about 720 km left to the final destination. The big challenge will be dealing with the powerful winds. I´ll make one thing clear. When the winds blow really hard riding is NOT possible. Seek shelter. Hunker down. Wait until Mother Nature says you can ride. We are well equipped and a worse case is we build a stone "wind break". Sounds good in theory anyways. Wish us luck please!
Oh yeah, and as you have noticed I have been riding and trekking with the "swift Swiss cycle master", Markus. It seems that the competition has been somewhat SCARED off. Some mornings we found only ourselves in the pelaton.
MORE Photos ...
Have added about 35 photos and made a couple of new albums. I do hope that you enjoy them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PS.
Nice to hear from everybody! It was a grand pleasure to open some e-mails and to see so comments!! Thank you everybody!
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Will Be Out of Touch ...
Dear Friends and Family:
Please don´t be alarmed ... I will be out of contact until approximately Jan. 12 (plus or minus a day). I will be riding with Markus to Torres de Paine and then plan on doing some trekking. Internet and phones will be extremely sparse if not non-existant.
Should arrive at Torres de Paine Park (major "trekking Mecca") around Jan 5th.
Next major village after trekking will be Puerto Natales (you can find it on the map).
Hasta pronto!
Hope to hear from you then!
Please don´t be alarmed ... I will be out of contact until approximately Jan. 12 (plus or minus a day). I will be riding with Markus to Torres de Paine and then plan on doing some trekking. Internet and phones will be extremely sparse if not non-existant.
Should arrive at Torres de Paine Park (major "trekking Mecca") around Jan 5th.
Next major village after trekking will be Puerto Natales (you can find it on the map).
Hasta pronto!
Hope to hear from you then!
Days 66 to 71 Biking, Hiking and Trekking
Reader´s Digest Version
Sorry for being out of touch for so long. Internet connections have been few and far between and some of the time I have been on the side of a mountain. Spent three days in El Chalén (Mt. Fitz Roy) hiking and trekking. Back riding again with the "Swiss Masher Markus". Riding through the Argentinian Pampas. Next major destination is Torres del Paine. Will cross into Chile again (for the third time) in about two of three days.
Suffered a bit of intestinal problems, lost voice, blisters and fatigue. But as of today (Jan 2) my mo-jo is BACK! All is good. Please check out the NEW photos.
Day 66. Day Hike to the Base of Mt. Fitz Roy
Had a fantastic day hiking to the base of the infamous Mt. Fitz Roy. It has been a long time wish to see this massive monalith protuding high into the sky. Well, I didn´t exactly see it. It was hidden in a shroud of clouds. Some of the lower peaks were visible. Still very spectacular scenary. (you can judge for yourself when you check out the photos).
Day 67. First day of Two Day Glacier Trek (behind Mt. Fitz Roy)
Met up with an accountant from London, Tim, who has "pulled the pin" and is now travelling around south america and we arranged a trip with a guide into some of the back country of the Mt. Fitz Roy area. The weather was, well, absolutely miserable. I was waiting for our valiant guide, Martín, to ask us if we wanted to turn back. He never asked us. All he said is that we were "well equipped" as we slogged forward through the rain. Basically, all the precipitation falls out over the glaciers, as it comes in from the Pacific. Falling precisely on our heads and soaking all of our gear. Tim didn´t flinch a bit either .... must be a result of the SAS training he had. We followed Martín as he snaked his way through a labryinth of crevices.
Unfortunately, again, most of the spectular views of the high mountain tops were shrouded in clouds. Oh well. We tried. Again.
Day 68. Day 2 of Trek.
After spending the evening trying to dry out the basics of the gear (boots, gloves, pants) we had a hearty breakfast packed up the tent and made our way back to the village of El Chaltén. The rain had stopped but it was still quite cloudy up on the glacier.
Just for the record, I never would have done this trip under such aquatic conditions, however, I am REALLY glad that our guide didn´t let us quit. I think you´ll agree when you see the photos.
Day 69. El Chaltén to La Leona (The Lion)
Well, it was back on the two-wheeled iron horse again. This time it was Markus and I who were the only ones left to form a group as Yukito had left two days earlier. The terrain is now through the Argentinian "Pampa" (rolling, rocky plains .... somewhat like Utah or Arizona?).
Tot time 5 hrs 7 min, ride time 4 hrs29 min, 109 km, elev gain 470 m, elev loss 600 m
Day 70. La Leona to El Calafate
Again, riding with Markus who rides with the precision of Swiss watch. The tall Swiss does not ride a Trek bike as earlier stated but a fully-customized touring bike with a unique rear fully sealed cluster and some other very cool European accessories.
The last 32 km we headed due West. Directly into the fierce prevailing winds. Markus and I tag-teamed to make Swiss cheese out the wind. These prevailing winds are well .... extremely brisk. If luck is with us it should be a cross wind for most of way (and a slight tail wind at times). Let´s see.
Tot time 7 hrs 10 min, ride time 6 hrs 7 min, 106 km, elev gain 916 m, elev loss 970 m
Day 71. El Calafate .... Tour of El Perito Moreno Glacier.
We will take bus and travel 80 km each way to see this quite famous glacier which calves into the waters below.
Photos, photos, photos!
I have downloaded 30 new photos (will try to get a few more in as well). Please take a peek. It was a very time consuming process.
I have created a few new "albums" in order to organize the photos better and to help you figure out where some of these photos were taken. I do hope that you enjoy them! Please let me know what you think of them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
ps. All your messages are MUCH appreciated. Thank you for contacting me. If you wish I may also be reached at; darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
pps. Pod, that is amazing about Phil Mahre "coming back". Do you think he will race in the White Circus? Actually, I never got a chance to compete against him. He never showed up at Rabbit Hill. Do you think Mr. Lumby would let us compete in the juvies again?
Sorry for being out of touch for so long. Internet connections have been few and far between and some of the time I have been on the side of a mountain. Spent three days in El Chalén (Mt. Fitz Roy) hiking and trekking. Back riding again with the "Swiss Masher Markus". Riding through the Argentinian Pampas. Next major destination is Torres del Paine. Will cross into Chile again (for the third time) in about two of three days.
Suffered a bit of intestinal problems, lost voice, blisters and fatigue. But as of today (Jan 2) my mo-jo is BACK! All is good. Please check out the NEW photos.
Day 66. Day Hike to the Base of Mt. Fitz Roy
Had a fantastic day hiking to the base of the infamous Mt. Fitz Roy. It has been a long time wish to see this massive monalith protuding high into the sky. Well, I didn´t exactly see it. It was hidden in a shroud of clouds. Some of the lower peaks were visible. Still very spectacular scenary. (you can judge for yourself when you check out the photos).
Day 67. First day of Two Day Glacier Trek (behind Mt. Fitz Roy)
Met up with an accountant from London, Tim, who has "pulled the pin" and is now travelling around south america and we arranged a trip with a guide into some of the back country of the Mt. Fitz Roy area. The weather was, well, absolutely miserable. I was waiting for our valiant guide, Martín, to ask us if we wanted to turn back. He never asked us. All he said is that we were "well equipped" as we slogged forward through the rain. Basically, all the precipitation falls out over the glaciers, as it comes in from the Pacific. Falling precisely on our heads and soaking all of our gear. Tim didn´t flinch a bit either .... must be a result of the SAS training he had. We followed Martín as he snaked his way through a labryinth of crevices.
Unfortunately, again, most of the spectular views of the high mountain tops were shrouded in clouds. Oh well. We tried. Again.
Day 68. Day 2 of Trek.
After spending the evening trying to dry out the basics of the gear (boots, gloves, pants) we had a hearty breakfast packed up the tent and made our way back to the village of El Chaltén. The rain had stopped but it was still quite cloudy up on the glacier.
Just for the record, I never would have done this trip under such aquatic conditions, however, I am REALLY glad that our guide didn´t let us quit. I think you´ll agree when you see the photos.
Day 69. El Chaltén to La Leona (The Lion)
Well, it was back on the two-wheeled iron horse again. This time it was Markus and I who were the only ones left to form a group as Yukito had left two days earlier. The terrain is now through the Argentinian "Pampa" (rolling, rocky plains .... somewhat like Utah or Arizona?).
Tot time 5 hrs 7 min, ride time 4 hrs29 min, 109 km, elev gain 470 m, elev loss 600 m
Day 70. La Leona to El Calafate
Again, riding with Markus who rides with the precision of Swiss watch. The tall Swiss does not ride a Trek bike as earlier stated but a fully-customized touring bike with a unique rear fully sealed cluster and some other very cool European accessories.
The last 32 km we headed due West. Directly into the fierce prevailing winds. Markus and I tag-teamed to make Swiss cheese out the wind. These prevailing winds are well .... extremely brisk. If luck is with us it should be a cross wind for most of way (and a slight tail wind at times). Let´s see.
Tot time 7 hrs 10 min, ride time 6 hrs 7 min, 106 km, elev gain 916 m, elev loss 970 m
Day 71. El Calafate .... Tour of El Perito Moreno Glacier.
We will take bus and travel 80 km each way to see this quite famous glacier which calves into the waters below.
Photos, photos, photos!
I have downloaded 30 new photos (will try to get a few more in as well). Please take a peek. It was a very time consuming process.
I have created a few new "albums" in order to organize the photos better and to help you figure out where some of these photos were taken. I do hope that you enjoy them! Please let me know what you think of them.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
ps. All your messages are MUCH appreciated. Thank you for contacting me. If you wish I may also be reached at; darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
pps. Pod, that is amazing about Phil Mahre "coming back". Do you think he will race in the White Circus? Actually, I never got a chance to compete against him. He never showed up at Rabbit Hill. Do you think Mr. Lumby would let us compete in the juvies again?
Friday, December 28, 2007
Days 63 to 65, Villa O`Higgins - El Chaltén
Day 63. Villa O`Higgins
Was able to enjoy Christmas day off with my new found cycling friends (Kirsty, Damien, Marcos and Yukito).
Day 64. Villa O´Higgins to Lago del Desierto (or "Through the Worm Hole")
In the most unlikely turn of events, Team Swiss/Japan united forces with the solo Canadian Team in a concerted effort to confront this most challenging of days. I refer to the remote border crossing between Chile and Argentina.
Let me explain the process please ... a short 7 km cycle, followed by a 3 hour ferry ride, followed by 14 km of very rough rocky road, river crossing, 7 km of demanding hiking trail (not made for touring bikes ... we had to push, pull and beg our bikes to squeeze through this trail), go through the Argentina immigration, then another 1 hour ferry crossing. At the end of this point we camped.
The 7 km "hike a bike" and river crossing was definitely the most demanding section. Bike and clothing absorbed a lot of punishment this day. Fortunately, no weld or metal failures. However, I did flat three times.
Today was very special as I spent it riding with my former rivals turned amigos, Yukito and Marcos. Crossing the river was huge FUN. I fell in twice. Once with some of Marcos´ gear and one time with mine. Whoops! The biggest challenge was about the fifth time across the river (shuttling gear) and I had Yukito´s mandolin. I did not want to get it wet. Fortunately, I did not slip.
We camped this night. Had a beautiful spot with a view of a mountain with a glacier.
Side note on Yukito ...
This fella is a tough as they come. He has racked up about 10,000 km, starting in Quito, Ecuador. He picked up all of his gear in Quito and decided on a "whim" to do the trip. Travels with a small guittar, low tech gear and not much of it. And never a complaint from him. As friendly and tough as they come. My friend.
Total time 11 hrs 30 min, ride time 4 hrs 10 min, 33 km, elevation gain 964 m, elevation loss 682 m
Day 65. Lago del Desierto to El Chaltén.
This road was short but very bumpy. Just had to go very slow in a effort to reduce the jolts to the equipment and body.
Total time 2 hrs 55 min, ride time 2 hrs 36 min, 36 km, elevation gain 190 m, elevation loss 280 m.
My location now?
Well, you can look at the map and basically I am at Mt. Fitz Roy. The mountain itself is about 12 km away from the village of El Chaltén (again, El Chaltén is the original indigous name of the mountain).
Coming Up ...
Will trekking for about 3 days in this Argentinian "Park of the Glaciers".
PS. Some people have written me and I have not had time to respond personally. Eventually, I will. This means people like Uncle Ralph & Aunt Clara, Martin, Penny, Cousin FRank, and a few others ...
PPS. Internet is very slow here - via satellite. Will endeavour to upload some photos
Was able to enjoy Christmas day off with my new found cycling friends (Kirsty, Damien, Marcos and Yukito).
Day 64. Villa O´Higgins to Lago del Desierto (or "Through the Worm Hole")
In the most unlikely turn of events, Team Swiss/Japan united forces with the solo Canadian Team in a concerted effort to confront this most challenging of days. I refer to the remote border crossing between Chile and Argentina.
Let me explain the process please ... a short 7 km cycle, followed by a 3 hour ferry ride, followed by 14 km of very rough rocky road, river crossing, 7 km of demanding hiking trail (not made for touring bikes ... we had to push, pull and beg our bikes to squeeze through this trail), go through the Argentina immigration, then another 1 hour ferry crossing. At the end of this point we camped.
The 7 km "hike a bike" and river crossing was definitely the most demanding section. Bike and clothing absorbed a lot of punishment this day. Fortunately, no weld or metal failures. However, I did flat three times.
Today was very special as I spent it riding with my former rivals turned amigos, Yukito and Marcos. Crossing the river was huge FUN. I fell in twice. Once with some of Marcos´ gear and one time with mine. Whoops! The biggest challenge was about the fifth time across the river (shuttling gear) and I had Yukito´s mandolin. I did not want to get it wet. Fortunately, I did not slip.
We camped this night. Had a beautiful spot with a view of a mountain with a glacier.
Side note on Yukito ...
This fella is a tough as they come. He has racked up about 10,000 km, starting in Quito, Ecuador. He picked up all of his gear in Quito and decided on a "whim" to do the trip. Travels with a small guittar, low tech gear and not much of it. And never a complaint from him. As friendly and tough as they come. My friend.
Total time 11 hrs 30 min, ride time 4 hrs 10 min, 33 km, elevation gain 964 m, elevation loss 682 m
Day 65. Lago del Desierto to El Chaltén.
This road was short but very bumpy. Just had to go very slow in a effort to reduce the jolts to the equipment and body.
Total time 2 hrs 55 min, ride time 2 hrs 36 min, 36 km, elevation gain 190 m, elevation loss 280 m.
My location now?
Well, you can look at the map and basically I am at Mt. Fitz Roy. The mountain itself is about 12 km away from the village of El Chaltén (again, El Chaltén is the original indigous name of the mountain).
Coming Up ...
Will trekking for about 3 days in this Argentinian "Park of the Glaciers".
PS. Some people have written me and I have not had time to respond personally. Eventually, I will. This means people like Uncle Ralph & Aunt Clara, Martin, Penny, Cousin FRank, and a few others ...
PPS. Internet is very slow here - via satellite. Will endeavour to upload some photos
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Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
