Well, the most remote part of the Carretera Austral and the final leg did not disappoint expectations with respect to beautiful mountain vistas, winding roads, lakes, rivers and waterfalls cascading from the mountain sides. The road was in remarkabling good condition (probably due much less large vehicles).
Have started to see more and more cyclists on this (apparently quite popular) Carretera Austral.
Showdown at the "OK Carretera Austral"
In Cochrane, the night before leaving I finally met up with the infamous Swiss/ Japonese team of the tall and wiry Marcos and Yukito. I had heard about this pair through the "rumour mill" (other travellers and in the Hostals). This dynamic duo both ride Trek Bikes and started their journey in Ecuador. We were all leaving Cochrane the next day. Yukito met me with an icy stare his message, without words, was clear ... "you and those skinny 35 mm tires are going to be begging for the next bus". It took all of my courage to meet his look. I thought to myself ...¨"just wait until these big 700 mm rims get rolling, just wait and see who is the last samuri eating the last spicy tuna roll".
On the first stage of three it was neither the Canadian Solo Team or the Japanese/Swiss Dynamic duo winning the first stage! It was the mixed team from the UK, Kirsty and Damien, taking stage 1! They put in late charge and put to rest about 110 km of dust behind them.
Team Japon-Swiss missed the first Ferry the next day but showed their true grit and put in a punishing 130 to take stage 2. Meanwhile, Solo Canada was caught in the middle ... bolting ahead of Team UK.
Now behind the 8-Ball, I pulled out all the stops and decided an all out effort was my only hope. On the bike at 6 30 am and arrived at Villa O´Higgins at 9 30 am. Which turned out to be a comfortable 3 hours ahead of fierce rivals.
OK, my mind wanders when I ride
The other story... (the real one)
The group of us are now comfortably lodged down at the same Hostal in Villa O´Higgins. The "real" Yukito is a super cool dude who cycles with a small mandolin and both him and Marcos are the friendliest of fellas! With Team UK (Kirsty and Damien) we will be spending Christmas day together. Kirst and Damien are also fun and kind folks - they made me a hot meal while waiting for the ferry in Puerto Yungay. We have already enjoyed a nice meal and some cold beverages. Very good company!
Going through the Wormhole...
And on Dec 26th. Yukito, Marcos and myself will make the remote crossing into Argentina. Will require 2 Ferry crossings, 28 km of trekking/biking, 40 km of dirt road. If all goes well on Dec 28th we will all "pop out" in the Argentinian village of "El Chalten" (basically right in front of Fitz Roy)
Did you know?
El Chalten is the indigunous name for Mt Fitz Roy. Mt Fitz Roy was named after the capitain of the infamous shio, The Beagle, that took Darwin on his South American expedition.
My location...
If you look on the little map, I am about 80 north of Mt. Fitz Roy.
Stats...
Day 60 Cochrane - Camping
Total time 8 hrs 18 min, ride time 6 hrs 37 min, 97 km, elev gain 1,215 m, elev loss 1,340 m.
Day 61 Camping - Camping (again, beautiful spot)
Total time 8 hrs 3 min, ride 5 hrs 21 min, 76 km, elevation gain 1,561 m, elevation loss 1,305 m
Day 62 Camping - Villa O´Higgins
Total time 3 hrs 11 min, ride 2 hrs 44 min, 51 km, elevation gain 513 m, elevation loss 520 m.
Photos...www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
and most importantly ... MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!
Thank you to all my dear friends and family who have been joining me on this trip. Your company is WONDERFUL. I would not want to be travelling alone.
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Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
3 comments:
Hola D2,
Que alegria oir de ti y saber que ya estas mas cerquita de tu destino final, espero que hayas pasado una buena navidad, esas fotos son divinas, me hacen acordar mucho de nuestras montanias.
Mucho animo que ya casi llegas, vamos muchacho!!
E2
Merry Xmas D,
Mom and I just missed your call by 4.5 minutes, we were out doing the dog park walk. Mom is amazed by the dog culture in Edmonton. Other than great skiing on the Birkie trails not much else is going on here. Mom and I attempted a scrabble game last night (in your memory) but have yet to finish it. We will do it.
But really, we just googled where you are and got a better idea of things. So there are large lakes that get in the way. How are the ferry rides? I am glad you have some cyclists you are travelling with. It sounded like a race was going on (in your head) I was not sure how long it has been going on for.
We skied with Yuri last weekend, was a good one. I will go out tomorrow for 0900 bells.
The big supper is soon, I will take a few bites for you.
Hope to talk to you soon, we miss you.
Sister Joy and Mom
Merry Christmas Darryl! Your house is doing fine, I've been lucky as there has not been any snow to shovel for a long time.
Try not to get caught up in the boxing day llama sales!
Cheers,
Roy
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