Day 27, Los Vilos to Papudo ... MAJOR MECHANICAL
Total time 6 hrs, 8 min. ride time 4 hrs 29 min. 86 km, 1,023 m elev gain, 1,004 m elev loss.
Well, all was going very well, it was a nice easy day (as planned) after the gruel-fest the day before. Everything was peachy but just as I was arriving into Papudo my bike suffered a mechanical failure on one of the rear eyelets.
I´ll explain.
These eyelets are welded to the frame of the bike and used to hold the panniers on. ABSOLUTELY critical (go figure).
Kkkkkkrrrrrr. That is the sound of the pannier rack without support grinding againstthe rear cassette.
Not good.
Anyways, to make a long story semi-short, I found a hotel in Papudo, unloaded my gear and then cycled to the nearest town with a welder (La Ligua) about 25 km away. One good welder, good with old-fashioned South American ingenuity, to weld back the eyelet onto the frame.
More details on this potentially "trip ending" breakdown.
I actually believe it will be OK. There are two sets of rear eyelets. If it fails again, and no welder is close by, I can "switch" to a different set of eyelets.
Also, I believe the major cause of the failure is "laying" the bike on its side. It causes excess stress on the eyelet. In the future, I will always try to lean the bike against something.
Also, in Santiago, I will try to get the eyelets re-inforced.
Day 28, Papudo to Valparaíso
First the good news. The repair held! At least for one day. Which is a small victory.
Total time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 28 min, 93 km, elev gain 790 m, elev loss 840 m.
Well, this was the sweetest ride to date! Beautiful coastlines, passed through quaint seaside villages and then got to ride through Viña del Mar (very "happening" Chilean coastal city. Final destination is the wild city of Valparaíso (or Valpo as the locals call it). The city is on the coast but also is built up along steep and high embankments leading to the interior. Had a nice tail wind to boot!
ps. On to Santiago tomorrow (Nov 21). Will take a day off to have a little TLC done on my bike.
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Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
8 comments:
Hard luck with the eyelet breaking - excellent photos of the work in the shop getting it fixed.
What is your backup plan if the weld does not hold? Do you want to put a plan in place to get other racks?
Are you going to go through the tunnel going to Santiago? If I recall correctly, and that is not often the case, it is quite an elevation gain from the coast getting to the tunnel and the tunnel itself is lengthy with a significant elevation gain too.
After Santiago, are you going back to the coast and then south? It is very beautiful south of Valipariso.
Finally, how is your plastic doing? Wearing that plastic even thinner? Should we make arrangements to get you a new ATM card?
B
B,
Go to www.oldmanmountain.com
The rear rack that I would be interested in is the "Sherpa". It does not rely on a rear eyelet. These racks are THE best in the world. Custom made in Santa Barbara.
Hmmmmm, I am not sure what to do. I don`t want to wait in Santiago for another rack. I think that I will try to get the rear eyelet reinforced in Santiago. A worst case scenario is that that the rear eyelet continues to fail while I am in the¨"deep south". I think I will have to take my chances. Perhaps you could investigate how quickly you could get your hands on one of these racks. Just in case.
Hey Darryl
Just got my DSL problem resolved
no internet/email for a month
old school.
Your brothers friends in India
were a great help- only took
6 calls/hangups- three on site
visits, one nasty hole dug in my
neighbours backyard and a meltdown
or two by Holly- something about ruining her social life. Please.
Sounds/Looks like a great trip to
date other than the mechanical issues- fitness will not be an issue. Have a great time on your
"rest" days maybe you can post some
more stats.
I will be following daily- until
I am again brought to my knees
by technology.
Cheers
Dean
It's obvious to me that the eyelet problem is related to the the weight of the hitchhikers you are picking up. Maybe you should limit it to one rider. At least give us photos of the back seat passengers!
cheers
pod
Pod, it seems that you may be implying that the hitchhikers that have been riding on the rear rack have been 'heavy'.
And, since the eyelet broke, that probably makes sense and could very well be true.
Clearly, Darryl should consider putting a backup plan in place. Depending, of course, on if the weights increase as he goes south.
Maybe a heavy-duty 'Sherpa' rack is in the cards?
Hi Darryl,
Hope you get your eyelet problems fixed soon. I like the pictures.
Toronto is supposed to get its first snow/freezing rain tonight...it has been raining for the past few days with highs in the midteens.
Enjoy your rest day.
Nola
Hi Darryl,
Hope you get your eyelet problems corrected. I like the pictures.
Toronto is supposed to get its first snow/freezing rain tonight...it has been raining for the past few days with highs in the midteens.
Enjoy your rest day.
Nola
Hi Darryl,
Hope you get your eyelet problems corrected. I like the pictures.
Toronto is supposed to get its first snow/freezing rain tonight...it has been raining for the past few days with highs in the midteens.
Enjoy your rest day.
Nola
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