Went on a hike...
My goodness, Mother Nature really was inspired when she did this place up. Had a nice hike in the lush, green National Park of Huerquehue (yes, it´s a mouthful to say). Nice trails traverse up a forested (but with very distinct trees from what us Canucks are used to) to a series of Andean Lakes. Fun factor was at 11.
A little too much maybe...
I think I had the foot on the accelerator a little too much in the past few days. I have been suffering from a "stomach stitch" for the last couple of days. However, it appears to be recuperating. Has been nice to have a few extra hours to take of things like personal hygiene.
Off to Lanín...
Will be signing out for a few days as Rodrigo (my very experienced and accomplished Andean Guide) plus assistant Cristiano and myself make an attempt up Volcano Lanin.
...¡NEWS FLASH!...
Will now very likely be changing my route. Will go to Puerto Montt, take a ferry to Chaitén, then ride the infamous Carretera Austral (Austral Hwy). Will explain more about this later. Upon consulting with locals the roads are decent and the scenery will be unique and ... well, breathtaking. Am getting quite enthused about this recent turn of events.
ps. Sí Celia, tienes todo la razón, pero la bici no pudo ir anoche, en vez de las termas, la dejé todo el día hoy en el taller. Me dijo no fue lo mismo y estaba un poco mal geniado conmigo hoy. La próxima vez la prometí que vayamos juntos. Y sí, los Vascos estaban muy amables conmigo. Charlamos mucho. Van a estar montando la bici un año. !Vaya!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Day 37, Temuco to Pucón
Am now in the beautiful resort village of Pucón (elev about 235 m) which is located precariously below the looming volanco, Villarica, and on the shore of lake Villarica. Was very nice to get off the Panamericana and to ride on a mucher quieter highway.
Am planning on making an attempt up Volcano Lanín, 3740 m. Will start the climb at about 1200 m and should take 2 days. The weather, unfortunately looks marginal .... but who knows, we´ll try. I´m used to retreating in the case of really bad weather.
I forget to mention that I surpassed 3000 km a few days ago. Am now at 3,579 km ...... I really don´t like to think about how much distance is remaining .... at least at this point because there is a LOT more to go.
Definitely, did not have the "zip" today. I think it was the accumulation of the last two tough days.
Met a couple of riders from Spain (actually, from the Basque region). They are on mountain bikes and have been doing a combination of "riding" and "busing" and have been going for about 3 months in South America. We shared some chit-chat and as gesture between fellow cyclists I offered up some of my precious trail mix which we ate as part of the ceremony when encountering other cyclists.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 58 min, 108 km, elev gain 692 m, elev loss 586 m.
ps. Will be heading for a late night dip at the Puzones Hot Springs. Bus leaves at 8 pm.
pps. Attempt of the volcano will start Dec 1.
Coming Up.....
Dec 3, if all goes well, will leave Pucón and will cross the border into Argentina. Will travel through the beautiful "Lake Region" of the Patagonia on my way to Bariloche. Should take about 3 or 4 days to get there. Will be a different "kettle of fish" because will have to test the iron horse on some gravel roads.
At Bariloche, I should be around 3900 or 4000 km .... with about another 2500 km to go.
And hey ....
Nice to hear from a few new people (Bill, Marcia) and some veterans (Rags) who is back with his always entertaining perspectives on ... well, everything.
Am planning on making an attempt up Volcano Lanín, 3740 m. Will start the climb at about 1200 m and should take 2 days. The weather, unfortunately looks marginal .... but who knows, we´ll try. I´m used to retreating in the case of really bad weather.
I forget to mention that I surpassed 3000 km a few days ago. Am now at 3,579 km ...... I really don´t like to think about how much distance is remaining .... at least at this point because there is a LOT more to go.
Definitely, did not have the "zip" today. I think it was the accumulation of the last two tough days.
Met a couple of riders from Spain (actually, from the Basque region). They are on mountain bikes and have been doing a combination of "riding" and "busing" and have been going for about 3 months in South America. We shared some chit-chat and as gesture between fellow cyclists I offered up some of my precious trail mix which we ate as part of the ceremony when encountering other cyclists.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 58 min, 108 km, elev gain 692 m, elev loss 586 m.
ps. Will be heading for a late night dip at the Puzones Hot Springs. Bus leaves at 8 pm.
pps. Attempt of the volcano will start Dec 1.
Coming Up.....
Dec 3, if all goes well, will leave Pucón and will cross the border into Argentina. Will travel through the beautiful "Lake Region" of the Patagonia on my way to Bariloche. Should take about 3 or 4 days to get there. Will be a different "kettle of fish" because will have to test the iron horse on some gravel roads.
At Bariloche, I should be around 3900 or 4000 km .... with about another 2500 km to go.
And hey ....
Nice to hear from a few new people (Bill, Marcia) and some veterans (Rags) who is back with his always entertaining perspectives on ... well, everything.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Days 35 & 36, Chillán to Mulchén to Temuco
Day 35, Chillán to Mulchén
Well, this was an absolutely grand day. The "free ride" was over with respect to tail winds. Oh well, easy come, easy go. The landscape has changed dramatically such that it now looks very similar to places in Alberta or B.C. Rolling hills, pine trees, open pastures. Stayed at the small village of Mulchén and finished off the day by joining the locals and swimming at the meandering Bureo River that passes close to town. By the end of the day it was at north of 25 deg C.
Tot time 7 hrs 37 min, ride time 6 hrs 34 min, 146 km, elevation gain 751 m, elevation loss 721 m.
Day 36, Mulchén to Temuco
Countryside still looks a lot like places close to home but today was overcast and grey most of the day. And Chile, I mean chilly. The lumber industry has taken over as the big industry as far as I can tell. Am about 660 km south of Santiago. The coastal range has long since gone and the Andes to the east are not nearly as daunting. Rivers now drain westerly to the Pacific which makes for a lot more "up and downs".
Tot time 6 hrs 50 min, ride time 6 hrs, 138 km, elevation gain 1,006 m, elevation loss 1,034 m
Coming Up....
Will be departing from my dear friend, the Panamericana Highway, tomorrow (Nov 29). Next destination is Pucón which is nestled in the height of the Andes and has beautiful national park which I will be doing some exploring on foot (yes, the bike sobbed when I broke the news but that is life). Again, will be making an attempt on Volcano Lanin in a few days.
ps. Nice to hear from everybody! Your messages are appreciated and always read.
pps. Sister Joy, don´t know if I will be doing the Birkie this time. Maybe I´ll just cheer you on. Please, I´ll need a little time to get my skiing legs going.
Well, this was an absolutely grand day. The "free ride" was over with respect to tail winds. Oh well, easy come, easy go. The landscape has changed dramatically such that it now looks very similar to places in Alberta or B.C. Rolling hills, pine trees, open pastures. Stayed at the small village of Mulchén and finished off the day by joining the locals and swimming at the meandering Bureo River that passes close to town. By the end of the day it was at north of 25 deg C.
Tot time 7 hrs 37 min, ride time 6 hrs 34 min, 146 km, elevation gain 751 m, elevation loss 721 m.
Day 36, Mulchén to Temuco
Countryside still looks a lot like places close to home but today was overcast and grey most of the day. And Chile, I mean chilly. The lumber industry has taken over as the big industry as far as I can tell. Am about 660 km south of Santiago. The coastal range has long since gone and the Andes to the east are not nearly as daunting. Rivers now drain westerly to the Pacific which makes for a lot more "up and downs".
Tot time 6 hrs 50 min, ride time 6 hrs, 138 km, elevation gain 1,006 m, elevation loss 1,034 m
Coming Up....
Will be departing from my dear friend, the Panamericana Highway, tomorrow (Nov 29). Next destination is Pucón which is nestled in the height of the Andes and has beautiful national park which I will be doing some exploring on foot (yes, the bike sobbed when I broke the news but that is life). Again, will be making an attempt on Volcano Lanin in a few days.
ps. Nice to hear from everybody! Your messages are appreciated and always read.
pps. Sister Joy, don´t know if I will be doing the Birkie this time. Maybe I´ll just cheer you on. Please, I´ll need a little time to get my skiing legs going.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Days 33 & 34, Curicó - Linares - Chillán
Day 33, Curicó to Linares
Tot time 4 hrs 56 min, ride time 4 hrs 20 min, 115 km, elev gain 290 m, elev loss 290 m.
Day 34, Linares to Chillán
Tot time 4 hrs 11 min, ride time 3 hrs 54 min, 105km, elev gain 205 m, elev loss 250 m.
Still chugg'in South on the Pan Am
Well, this portion of the trip is proving to be rather ... easy. Don´t get me wrong, I´m not complaining. I am following the Panamerica south, still in the large, fertile valley between the Andes and the Coastal range. All sorts of fruit and vegetables are grown here. The valley is quite flat and they winds have been very favorable.
I forgot to me mention, that obviously, the vegetation has changed. Northern Chile was very dry and barren of vegetation, it all started to change about 300 or 400 km north of Santiago. More and more trees and plants as you go south. It is interesting at one point I saw a palm tree in close proximity to pine trees.
A little bit about the weather ...
During the day there are highs around 25 to 30 degrees C. In the morning when I start, which is usually 7 am, it is around 6 to 8 deg C. I like riding when it is not hot. Very pleasant riding conditions in this part of Chile.
Coming Up ...
Next villages/towns I will be passing through are: Los Angeles (no, not California), Victoria (not B.C.) and Temuco. The next big decision is to do this next portion to Temuco in 3 days or 2 days. It is 270 km away. I am not sure if I want to "pace myself" or well, have a couple of long days and put a day in "my back pocket".
From Temuco, I plan to start to cross the Andes into Argentina. Along the way, I plan to stop in a place called Pucón, close to the Chile / Argentina border and attempt to climb another volcano (Lanín). Hopefully, the weather will cooperate. After that I wil be in Argentina for a few weeks at least.
Tot time 4 hrs 56 min, ride time 4 hrs 20 min, 115 km, elev gain 290 m, elev loss 290 m.
Day 34, Linares to Chillán
Tot time 4 hrs 11 min, ride time 3 hrs 54 min, 105km, elev gain 205 m, elev loss 250 m.
Still chugg'in South on the Pan Am
Well, this portion of the trip is proving to be rather ... easy. Don´t get me wrong, I´m not complaining. I am following the Panamerica south, still in the large, fertile valley between the Andes and the Coastal range. All sorts of fruit and vegetables are grown here. The valley is quite flat and they winds have been very favorable.
I forgot to me mention, that obviously, the vegetation has changed. Northern Chile was very dry and barren of vegetation, it all started to change about 300 or 400 km north of Santiago. More and more trees and plants as you go south. It is interesting at one point I saw a palm tree in close proximity to pine trees.
A little bit about the weather ...
During the day there are highs around 25 to 30 degrees C. In the morning when I start, which is usually 7 am, it is around 6 to 8 deg C. I like riding when it is not hot. Very pleasant riding conditions in this part of Chile.
Coming Up ...
Next villages/towns I will be passing through are: Los Angeles (no, not California), Victoria (not B.C.) and Temuco. The next big decision is to do this next portion to Temuco in 3 days or 2 days. It is 270 km away. I am not sure if I want to "pace myself" or well, have a couple of long days and put a day in "my back pocket".
From Temuco, I plan to start to cross the Andes into Argentina. Along the way, I plan to stop in a place called Pucón, close to the Chile / Argentina border and attempt to climb another volcano (Lanín). Hopefully, the weather will cooperate. After that I wil be in Argentina for a few weeks at least.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Day 32, Rancagua to Curicó
Well, I am continuing my way South down the Panamericana, Ruta 5. The highway is in a valley between the mighty Andes (to the East) and the smaller coastal range to the West. I am right in the heartland of the fine Chilean wine production. Although, there is a strong allure to take a few detours and to indulge is some wine tours, I have decided I might need these precious "extra days" in order to get through the harsh Southern Patagonia. In a nutshell, no getting drunk on equisite red Chilean wine .... (well, not just yet). Gotta stay sharp.
Tot time 4 hrs 47 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 110 km, elev gain 253 m, elev loss 546 m. Had a nice tailwind to help the cause. Was an easy day.
Tot time 4 hrs 47 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 110 km, elev gain 253 m, elev loss 546 m. Had a nice tailwind to help the cause. Was an easy day.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Days 30 & 31, Santiago to Rancagua
Day 30, Site Seeing in Santiago
Took a "site seeing day" in Santiago and had the luxury personal tour guide, the very kind María, who is the cousin of Margarita and Yuri. Very spectular city. Lots of cool places to hang out if one wishes.
Day 31. Santiago to Rancagua
"The escape from Santiago" was not without stress and a little ad lib route finding as a good portion of the main thoroughfare (Panamericana) leaving Santiago is bike prohibited. On the plus side the route was very flat and shorter than both maps I had indicated.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 39 min, 92 km, elev gain 319 m, elev loss 361 m.
ps. Have been researching some of the extreme southern portions of the journey. Promises to present lot of fun (read "somewhat challenging"). Severe winds and bike rattling apart roads appear to be the primary obstacles. Gee, maybe I should just hang out in the Chilean wine valleys.
Took a "site seeing day" in Santiago and had the luxury personal tour guide, the very kind María, who is the cousin of Margarita and Yuri. Very spectular city. Lots of cool places to hang out if one wishes.
Day 31. Santiago to Rancagua
"The escape from Santiago" was not without stress and a little ad lib route finding as a good portion of the main thoroughfare (Panamericana) leaving Santiago is bike prohibited. On the plus side the route was very flat and shorter than both maps I had indicated.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 39 min, 92 km, elev gain 319 m, elev loss 361 m.
ps. Have been researching some of the extreme southern portions of the journey. Promises to present lot of fun (read "somewhat challenging"). Severe winds and bike rattling apart roads appear to be the primary obstacles. Gee, maybe I should just hang out in the Chilean wine valleys.
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Ride Stats, Valparaíso to Santiago
Tot time 6 hrs 15 min, ride time 5 hrs 28 min, 117 km, 1,365 m gain, 822 m loss.
Day 29, Valparaíso to Santiago ... Hustle and Bustle!
Well, I held my lane and the giant buses took pity on me and let me make my way to the hotel in the center of Santiago. The ride from Valparaíso to Santiago started out foggy and drizzling. First bit of rain that I have encountered.
By the way Bryan, in fact, there are two tunnels on highway 68 from Valpo to Santiago. The first tunnel (La Zapata) has a nice wide shoulder lane. The second tunnel (El Prado) has none. In fact, bicycles are prohibited (according to the sign). Well, they should have INDICATED that 20 km before where the other route goes. I wasn't about to turn back.
We talked (my bike and I). She said, "put on the flashing red light on the back and I´ll put the hammer down." I´m like, "OK, if you think you can do it." Anyways, we went for it. Made it. Rode really fast. Kind of like trying to sprint against Yuri. All was good.
Will take a day off here in Santiago and then continue south along the Panamericana.
By the way Bryan, in fact, there are two tunnels on highway 68 from Valpo to Santiago. The first tunnel (La Zapata) has a nice wide shoulder lane. The second tunnel (El Prado) has none. In fact, bicycles are prohibited (according to the sign). Well, they should have INDICATED that 20 km before where the other route goes. I wasn't about to turn back.
We talked (my bike and I). She said, "put on the flashing red light on the back and I´ll put the hammer down." I´m like, "OK, if you think you can do it." Anyways, we went for it. Made it. Rode really fast. Kind of like trying to sprint against Yuri. All was good.
Will take a day off here in Santiago and then continue south along the Panamericana.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Days 27 & 28, Los Vilos-Papudo-Valparaíso
Day 27, Los Vilos to Papudo ... MAJOR MECHANICAL
Total time 6 hrs, 8 min. ride time 4 hrs 29 min. 86 km, 1,023 m elev gain, 1,004 m elev loss.
Well, all was going very well, it was a nice easy day (as planned) after the gruel-fest the day before. Everything was peachy but just as I was arriving into Papudo my bike suffered a mechanical failure on one of the rear eyelets.
I´ll explain.
These eyelets are welded to the frame of the bike and used to hold the panniers on. ABSOLUTELY critical (go figure).
Kkkkkkrrrrrr. That is the sound of the pannier rack without support grinding againstthe rear cassette.
Not good.
Anyways, to make a long story semi-short, I found a hotel in Papudo, unloaded my gear and then cycled to the nearest town with a welder (La Ligua) about 25 km away. One good welder, good with old-fashioned South American ingenuity, to weld back the eyelet onto the frame.
More details on this potentially "trip ending" breakdown.
I actually believe it will be OK. There are two sets of rear eyelets. If it fails again, and no welder is close by, I can "switch" to a different set of eyelets.
Also, I believe the major cause of the failure is "laying" the bike on its side. It causes excess stress on the eyelet. In the future, I will always try to lean the bike against something.
Also, in Santiago, I will try to get the eyelets re-inforced.
Day 28, Papudo to Valparaíso
First the good news. The repair held! At least for one day. Which is a small victory.
Total time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 28 min, 93 km, elev gain 790 m, elev loss 840 m.
Well, this was the sweetest ride to date! Beautiful coastlines, passed through quaint seaside villages and then got to ride through Viña del Mar (very "happening" Chilean coastal city. Final destination is the wild city of Valparaíso (or Valpo as the locals call it). The city is on the coast but also is built up along steep and high embankments leading to the interior. Had a nice tail wind to boot!
ps. On to Santiago tomorrow (Nov 21). Will take a day off to have a little TLC done on my bike.
Total time 6 hrs, 8 min. ride time 4 hrs 29 min. 86 km, 1,023 m elev gain, 1,004 m elev loss.
Well, all was going very well, it was a nice easy day (as planned) after the gruel-fest the day before. Everything was peachy but just as I was arriving into Papudo my bike suffered a mechanical failure on one of the rear eyelets.
I´ll explain.
These eyelets are welded to the frame of the bike and used to hold the panniers on. ABSOLUTELY critical (go figure).
Kkkkkkrrrrrr. That is the sound of the pannier rack without support grinding againstthe rear cassette.
Not good.
Anyways, to make a long story semi-short, I found a hotel in Papudo, unloaded my gear and then cycled to the nearest town with a welder (La Ligua) about 25 km away. One good welder, good with old-fashioned South American ingenuity, to weld back the eyelet onto the frame.
More details on this potentially "trip ending" breakdown.
I actually believe it will be OK. There are two sets of rear eyelets. If it fails again, and no welder is close by, I can "switch" to a different set of eyelets.
Also, I believe the major cause of the failure is "laying" the bike on its side. It causes excess stress on the eyelet. In the future, I will always try to lean the bike against something.
Also, in Santiago, I will try to get the eyelets re-inforced.
Day 28, Papudo to Valparaíso
First the good news. The repair held! At least for one day. Which is a small victory.
Total time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 28 min, 93 km, elev gain 790 m, elev loss 840 m.
Well, this was the sweetest ride to date! Beautiful coastlines, passed through quaint seaside villages and then got to ride through Viña del Mar (very "happening" Chilean coastal city. Final destination is the wild city of Valparaíso (or Valpo as the locals call it). The city is on the coast but also is built up along steep and high embankments leading to the interior. Had a nice tail wind to boot!
ps. On to Santiago tomorrow (Nov 21). Will take a day off to have a little TLC done on my bike.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Days 25 & 26, La Serena-Termas de Socos-Los Vilos
Day 25, La Serena - Termas de Socos
Total time 5 hrs 30 min, ride time 5 hrs, 104 km, elevation gain 963 m, elevation loss 911 m.
Well, the big motivation here was to enjoy the highly touted thermal baths of this ideally situated (for my journey) resort/spa hotel. As it turns out when I arrived, much to my dismay, the pool was drained and being painted. I did manage to go for a splash in the "camping village´s" cold pool. Followed by a hot shower.
I did get to watch some cable TV (Tennis Master´s Cup Tournament).
Day 26, Termas de Socos to Los Vilos
Total time 10 hrs 25 min, ride time 8 hrs 43 min, 152 km, 2,322 m elevation gain, 2,390 m elevation loss.
OK, in a nutshell, I took a serious spanking today! Pppppppphhhhhhhhh. That was the sound of a big bad Chilean headwind blasting at me all day. Also, please don´t let anybody tell you that riding all the coast is nice and flat. Today was a record day in elevation gain. To add insult to injury I flatted with about 15 km to go. With that said, I ate about half a dozen peanut butter, cheese and marmalade bunwiches which seemed to stave of the feared "bonk". All is good!
A few questions were asked ... and comments to friends ...
No, I don´t listen to any tunes. No iPod. I do not wish to admit which Cyndi Lauper songs go through my head though. I try to think about pertinent "Survivor Man" episodes that might help me ... on the serious side, I like to have a sense of the traffic around me ... just in case.
Ana, congratulations, on your upcoming graduation!! Beauty and brains a very good combination!!
Bryan, thanks for "polishing up" the blog.
Thanks for all of your messages! Very much appreciated.
ps: If all goes well, I should be in Santiago in another 3 days. Arriving on or about Nov 21.
pps: Does anybody know of a high end bike shop in Santiago? Might have to do some minor tweaks and change out a few parts.
Total time 5 hrs 30 min, ride time 5 hrs, 104 km, elevation gain 963 m, elevation loss 911 m.
Well, the big motivation here was to enjoy the highly touted thermal baths of this ideally situated (for my journey) resort/spa hotel. As it turns out when I arrived, much to my dismay, the pool was drained and being painted. I did manage to go for a splash in the "camping village´s" cold pool. Followed by a hot shower.
I did get to watch some cable TV (Tennis Master´s Cup Tournament).
Day 26, Termas de Socos to Los Vilos
Total time 10 hrs 25 min, ride time 8 hrs 43 min, 152 km, 2,322 m elevation gain, 2,390 m elevation loss.
OK, in a nutshell, I took a serious spanking today! Pppppppphhhhhhhhh. That was the sound of a big bad Chilean headwind blasting at me all day. Also, please don´t let anybody tell you that riding all the coast is nice and flat. Today was a record day in elevation gain. To add insult to injury I flatted with about 15 km to go. With that said, I ate about half a dozen peanut butter, cheese and marmalade bunwiches which seemed to stave of the feared "bonk". All is good!
A few questions were asked ... and comments to friends ...
No, I don´t listen to any tunes. No iPod. I do not wish to admit which Cyndi Lauper songs go through my head though. I try to think about pertinent "Survivor Man" episodes that might help me ... on the serious side, I like to have a sense of the traffic around me ... just in case.
Ana, congratulations, on your upcoming graduation!! Beauty and brains a very good combination!!
Bryan, thanks for "polishing up" the blog.
Thanks for all of your messages! Very much appreciated.
ps: If all goes well, I should be in Santiago in another 3 days. Arriving on or about Nov 21.
pps: Does anybody know of a high end bike shop in Santiago? Might have to do some minor tweaks and change out a few parts.
Friday, November 16, 2007
Day 24, Sight Seeing in La Serena
Hello Dear Friends & Family, have been wandering the streets of the lovely city of La Serena. Lots of nice plazas and cafés to explore. No visiting of museums though!
About the Earthquake ...
There was an earthquake on Nov 14th in Chile. The city most impacted was Tocapillo in which about 1,400 homes were destroyed. As far as I know there were unfortunately several fatalities as well, however, it was under 10 (again, as far as I know). It could have been much, much worse as the quake reached about 7.1 (or so).
At the time, I was about 750 to 800 km away, to the south - probably riding my bike. I never felt a thing. I had passed through Tocapillo some 8 days prior.
More about Future Kilometers Ahead ...
Good news and bad news.
After studying the map in detail, I realized that the total distance required will likely be about 6,400 km .... eeeesh!
The good news is that after doing some calculations and taking into account rest days and days reserved for exploring the Patagonia I need to cover about 105 km/day (just "riding days"). So far, I have been averaging about 115 km/day (when riding). It´s possible that I can do it BUT ... the bottom line is that I cannot afford to doddle.
Thank goodness I got off to a good start otherwise I think I would have been facing a daunting task.
About the Earthquake ...
There was an earthquake on Nov 14th in Chile. The city most impacted was Tocapillo in which about 1,400 homes were destroyed. As far as I know there were unfortunately several fatalities as well, however, it was under 10 (again, as far as I know). It could have been much, much worse as the quake reached about 7.1 (or so).
At the time, I was about 750 to 800 km away, to the south - probably riding my bike. I never felt a thing. I had passed through Tocapillo some 8 days prior.
More about Future Kilometers Ahead ...
Good news and bad news.
After studying the map in detail, I realized that the total distance required will likely be about 6,400 km .... eeeesh!
The good news is that after doing some calculations and taking into account rest days and days reserved for exploring the Patagonia I need to cover about 105 km/day (just "riding days"). So far, I have been averaging about 115 km/day (when riding). It´s possible that I can do it BUT ... the bottom line is that I cannot afford to doddle.
Thank goodness I got off to a good start otherwise I think I would have been facing a daunting task.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Just About the Stats ...
Well, I put another 1,000 km behind me, the odometer now reads 2,186 km. As of Nov 16 I will have averaged about 91.1 km/day which includes all rest days, mountain climbing days, etc. This is above my necessary target of about 68 km/day.
Total elevation gain so far has been about 20,000 m. Much more climbing than I expected, however, I don't mind the odd hill. It`s the headwinds that slow things down much more.
However, I cannot rest on my laurels (spelling?) as I may run into some very tough headwinds in the Patagonia that could bring my progress to a standstill. Don´t really know.
In general, I have been starting riding anywhere between 7:00 to 7:30 am. The big benefits are: taking advantage of the daylight, less winds early in the morning, less traffic, less time in the heat of the day, gives me time to wash clothes and let them dry out before the sun sets.
... All is well! Thank you for all of you comments and e-mails!!! Much appreciated!
Total elevation gain so far has been about 20,000 m. Much more climbing than I expected, however, I don't mind the odd hill. It`s the headwinds that slow things down much more.
However, I cannot rest on my laurels (spelling?) as I may run into some very tough headwinds in the Patagonia that could bring my progress to a standstill. Don´t really know.
In general, I have been starting riding anywhere between 7:00 to 7:30 am. The big benefits are: taking advantage of the daylight, less winds early in the morning, less traffic, less time in the heat of the day, gives me time to wash clothes and let them dry out before the sun sets.
... All is well! Thank you for all of you comments and e-mails!!! Much appreciated!
Days 20 to 23, Copiapó to La Serena
Day 20, Copiapó - Rest Day
Well, I did a little sightseeing around the city and did a little bike maintance. Rotated the tires, repaired a leaking tube and gave the drive train a good cleaning. OK, I watched a little Nat Geo as well (that and Discovery Channel seem to be my television of choice).
Day 21, Copiapó to Vallenar
OK, truth be told, it seems that I had over-indulged in a little bit of cerveza and local rum the night before. Seems that I got carried away a little. I guess I forgot that the next day was a "work day". I woke up and definitely was looking for some excuse not to ride.
My bike took one look at me and said, "forget it dude, you gotta ride, can´t leave me in the hotel all night and not expect me to ride the next day". I retorted, ¨come on, how strange would it look bringing a bike to the local pub ... pleeeeease!". The discussion went back and forth and 3 hours later than usual we left for the ride.
As it turned out we put some some serious asphalt behind us.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 46 min, 148 km, elev gain 1,290 m, elev loss 1,250 m.
Day 23, Vallenar to Incahuasi
Total time 5 hrs 48 min, ride time 5 hrs, 93 km, 1,460 m elev gain, 1,050 m elev loss.
Had to buck some bristling head winds plus there was a fair share of climbing. The small village of Incahausi nestled in the Chilean Coastal range was a pretty sight after a hard days riding.
There are really no formal accomodations just "pensiones" which are houses that have an extra room or two. Sometimes they are available and sometimes they are not. I was directed to the casa of Señora Nancy, I asked if there was accomodation available, she paused a few seconds, her stone-faced expression gave me no indication but the words, "Sí, señor" were music to my ears. Yahoo! No camping tonight among the sagebrush.
Just for the record, the accomodations were more than good and a few extra bonuses included a great chicken dinner and two freshly made empanadas that I took on the road.
Day 24, Incahuasi to La Serena
Total time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 25 min, 99km, 1,060m elev gain, 1,840m elev loss.
After a good night's sleep I was back in my normal routine. Was on my bike by 7 am. I enjoy starting early. However, this time, my early rising was my demise. After riding about 9 or 10 km of which was a pure descent I ran into a thick fog bank that the locals call "la camachaca". I rode as far as I could and "checked it out". After discovering that indeed it was pea soup, I quickly turned around and hustled back to a posada close to Incahuasi where I waited a couple of hours until the hot morning sun burned it off.
The rest of the day went well and now I am La Serena only about 5 days riding from Santiago!
ps. Will likely enjoy some of the sites in and around the city of La Serena tomorrow (Nov 16).
Well, I did a little sightseeing around the city and did a little bike maintance. Rotated the tires, repaired a leaking tube and gave the drive train a good cleaning. OK, I watched a little Nat Geo as well (that and Discovery Channel seem to be my television of choice).
Day 21, Copiapó to Vallenar
OK, truth be told, it seems that I had over-indulged in a little bit of cerveza and local rum the night before. Seems that I got carried away a little. I guess I forgot that the next day was a "work day". I woke up and definitely was looking for some excuse not to ride.
My bike took one look at me and said, "forget it dude, you gotta ride, can´t leave me in the hotel all night and not expect me to ride the next day". I retorted, ¨come on, how strange would it look bringing a bike to the local pub ... pleeeeease!". The discussion went back and forth and 3 hours later than usual we left for the ride.
As it turned out we put some some serious asphalt behind us.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 46 min, 148 km, elev gain 1,290 m, elev loss 1,250 m.
Day 23, Vallenar to Incahuasi
Total time 5 hrs 48 min, ride time 5 hrs, 93 km, 1,460 m elev gain, 1,050 m elev loss.
Had to buck some bristling head winds plus there was a fair share of climbing. The small village of Incahausi nestled in the Chilean Coastal range was a pretty sight after a hard days riding.
There are really no formal accomodations just "pensiones" which are houses that have an extra room or two. Sometimes they are available and sometimes they are not. I was directed to the casa of Señora Nancy, I asked if there was accomodation available, she paused a few seconds, her stone-faced expression gave me no indication but the words, "Sí, señor" were music to my ears. Yahoo! No camping tonight among the sagebrush.
Just for the record, the accomodations were more than good and a few extra bonuses included a great chicken dinner and two freshly made empanadas that I took on the road.
Day 24, Incahuasi to La Serena
Total time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 25 min, 99km, 1,060m elev gain, 1,840m elev loss.
After a good night's sleep I was back in my normal routine. Was on my bike by 7 am. I enjoy starting early. However, this time, my early rising was my demise. After riding about 9 or 10 km of which was a pure descent I ran into a thick fog bank that the locals call "la camachaca". I rode as far as I could and "checked it out". After discovering that indeed it was pea soup, I quickly turned around and hustled back to a posada close to Incahuasi where I waited a couple of hours until the hot morning sun burned it off.
The rest of the day went well and now I am La Serena only about 5 days riding from Santiago!
ps. Will likely enjoy some of the sites in and around the city of La Serena tomorrow (Nov 16).
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Days 16 to 19, Crossed the Atacama Desert!
Day 16, Antofagasta to Somewhere in the Middle of the Atacama Desert (actually the place had a name "Los Vientos" - which means The Winds). OK, this a tale I would like to tell. My strategy was to bolt as deep into the desert on this initial day as possible. I had studied the map intimately and I had thought I knew the geography rather well. As it turned out the first "posada" (small store) at km 63 had been abandoned several months ago. Woops. Should have talked to a few truck drivers before I left. I soldiered on. Just a little low on water that´s all. At about km 100 ran across "Posada Rosario" which was a true oasis and saved my dehydrated skin.
After re-fuelling at Posada Rosario I continued to bike deep into the heart of the desert. I was planning on calling it a day around km 130 or so but I caught a nice tail wind! Hoo-haw!! Rode that wind for about another 50 km of so.
The final stats for the day were a record day ..... total distance 183 km, total time 10 hrs 36 min, ride time 8 hrs 35 min, elevation gain 2,315 m, elevation loss 400 m.
What I never expected was to be camping at close to 2000 m. The wind really whipped up and I constructed a small wind break out of rocks in order to help keep the tent standing. Was a little low on water. Had to ration the remaining water carefully. No urine drinking though!
Day 17, "Middle of the Atacama Desert" to Posada Bahía Taltal
Total time 5 hrs 50 min, ride time 4 hrs, distance 104 km, elev gain 480 m, elev loss 1,670 m. By the end of this day I was out of the worst of the desert. I used the rest of this day to clean my bike, clothes and body. It took a while.
I forgot to mention that one of my favorite "passtimes" is to open pop bottles after they have been shaken up after rattling in my bike all day. Makes for a mess. Sometimes they leak out inside my panniers. Super fun!
Day 18, Posada Bahía Taltal to Playa Flamenco
Total time 9 hrs 30 min, ride time 7 hrs 36 min, distance 151 km, elev gain 1,270 m, elev loss 2,040m. I wanted to put in a big day in order to try to make it to Copiapó the following day. Had a great beach side spot to camp but didn´t have the energy or courage to bathe in the ocean. Hmmmm, come to think of it I didn´t bathe at all.
About three quarters of the way through the day I "dropped down" into the Chilean coastline.
Day 19, Playa Flamenco to Copiapó
Total time 7 hrs 23min, ride time 5 hrs 56 min, distance 134km, elev gain 1,110 m, elev loss 750m. A long ride as far as distance goes but I was helped by a nice tail wind for about half of the day. Got a pinch flat (hit a small stone pretty hard) with only 18 km to go! Only the third flat so far. Front tire this time.
And now ... a REST DAY. The gas tank is a little low and my motivation level is somewhere between "teeny tiny" and "zilch".
Footnote:
The city of Copiapó has about 160,000 habitants, is about 50 km inland, and has a nice main plaza.
After re-fuelling at Posada Rosario I continued to bike deep into the heart of the desert. I was planning on calling it a day around km 130 or so but I caught a nice tail wind! Hoo-haw!! Rode that wind for about another 50 km of so.
The final stats for the day were a record day ..... total distance 183 km, total time 10 hrs 36 min, ride time 8 hrs 35 min, elevation gain 2,315 m, elevation loss 400 m.
What I never expected was to be camping at close to 2000 m. The wind really whipped up and I constructed a small wind break out of rocks in order to help keep the tent standing. Was a little low on water. Had to ration the remaining water carefully. No urine drinking though!
Day 17, "Middle of the Atacama Desert" to Posada Bahía Taltal
Total time 5 hrs 50 min, ride time 4 hrs, distance 104 km, elev gain 480 m, elev loss 1,670 m. By the end of this day I was out of the worst of the desert. I used the rest of this day to clean my bike, clothes and body. It took a while.
I forgot to mention that one of my favorite "passtimes" is to open pop bottles after they have been shaken up after rattling in my bike all day. Makes for a mess. Sometimes they leak out inside my panniers. Super fun!
Day 18, Posada Bahía Taltal to Playa Flamenco
Total time 9 hrs 30 min, ride time 7 hrs 36 min, distance 151 km, elev gain 1,270 m, elev loss 2,040m. I wanted to put in a big day in order to try to make it to Copiapó the following day. Had a great beach side spot to camp but didn´t have the energy or courage to bathe in the ocean. Hmmmm, come to think of it I didn´t bathe at all.
About three quarters of the way through the day I "dropped down" into the Chilean coastline.
Day 19, Playa Flamenco to Copiapó
Total time 7 hrs 23min, ride time 5 hrs 56 min, distance 134km, elev gain 1,110 m, elev loss 750m. A long ride as far as distance goes but I was helped by a nice tail wind for about half of the day. Got a pinch flat (hit a small stone pretty hard) with only 18 km to go! Only the third flat so far. Front tire this time.
And now ... a REST DAY. The gas tank is a little low and my motivation level is somewhere between "teeny tiny" and "zilch".
Footnote:
The city of Copiapó has about 160,000 habitants, is about 50 km inland, and has a nice main plaza.
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
Days 14 & 15 Tocopilla - Hornitos - Antofagasta
Day 14, Tocopilla to Hornitos5.5 hrs total time, 5 hrs 10 min riding, 106 km, 1,100 m gain, 1,100 m loss. More easy riding along the Chilean Coast. Got to use my trust tent again. This time I put the fly on the right way. Definitely the nicest beach spot I have seen so far. Found a relatively secluded spot and pitched my tent. Had to eat from the panniers as there were NO restaurants in the area. I did manage to by 3 liters of Coke (the sugary, carbonated drink) which was vital to ensuring I didn´t shrivel away to dust.
Day 15, Hornitos to Antofagasta
3 hrs 55 min total time, 3 hrs 45 min riding, 86 km, 530 m gain, 540 m loss. You´ve heard it before ... more very pleasant (and easy) riding along the coast. The most difficult part of the day was finding a hotel. At about the sixth hotel I finally was able to get a room. OK, I don´t know if it was the two or three days without bathing or whether or there was not room. For the record, I did take a shower today.
THE PARTY IS OVER ... after 4 of the easiest days riding along the coast it is time to go back inland to the Atacama Desert. I have recuperated my energy and feel I am up to the challenge (famous last words?). I plan to wake up bright and early and take the desert by surprise. Lightning fast, like General Romel. OK, please don´t mention that he was eventually soundly defeated. I will try to be serious for a fleeting moment.
This next portion is EXTREMELY inhabitated. I have studied the map and believe that there are 3 key "posadas" (locations in which there is a tiny outpost comprising of a store / restaurant and a hut or two). We´ll see. I will load up my panniers for enough food for 2 days and enough water for 1 day. Therefore, those stores better exist or I´ll be flagging down truckers (asking for H2O).
SIGNING OUT FOR A WHILE ... the next major city I will arrive to is Copiapó, which is about 590 km from here. 3 days will be spent crossing the desert and another 2 or 3 days along sparsely populated coastline. Wish me luck comrades!
ps. Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn this morning. I´m an Aries. I don´t know if I messed anything up.
3 hrs 55 min total time, 3 hrs 45 min riding, 86 km, 530 m gain, 540 m loss. You´ve heard it before ... more very pleasant (and easy) riding along the coast. The most difficult part of the day was finding a hotel. At about the sixth hotel I finally was able to get a room. OK, I don´t know if it was the two or three days without bathing or whether or there was not room. For the record, I did take a shower today.
THE PARTY IS OVER ... after 4 of the easiest days riding along the coast it is time to go back inland to the Atacama Desert. I have recuperated my energy and feel I am up to the challenge (famous last words?). I plan to wake up bright and early and take the desert by surprise. Lightning fast, like General Romel. OK, please don´t mention that he was eventually soundly defeated. I will try to be serious for a fleeting moment.
This next portion is EXTREMELY inhabitated. I have studied the map and believe that there are 3 key "posadas" (locations in which there is a tiny outpost comprising of a store / restaurant and a hut or two). We´ll see. I will load up my panniers for enough food for 2 days and enough water for 1 day. Therefore, those stores better exist or I´ll be flagging down truckers (asking for H2O).
SIGNING OUT FOR A WHILE ... the next major city I will arrive to is Copiapó, which is about 590 km from here. 3 days will be spent crossing the desert and another 2 or 3 days along sparsely populated coastline. Wish me luck comrades!
ps. Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn this morning. I´m an Aries. I don´t know if I messed anything up.
Monday, November 5, 2007
Days 9 to 13, Deserts and Oceans
First the stats ...
Arica to Tocopilla (my present 10-20 ... location for you non CB buffs).
Distance 535 km, 31 hrs total time, 27 hrs riding time, 5,730 m elevation gain, 5,730 elevation loss. Both start and end locations are on the coast.
Here are the highlights ... I got my mojo back! My tummy was a little upset after a meal before arriving in Arica. I think that was part of the problem. The other thing is that my body has been acclimatized to high altitude. Now I feel a little `super charged´due to the lower elevation. It will wear off though quickly. Favorable winds have helped the last couple of days.
Days 9 and 10 were tough, tough, tough. Had to ascend up to the desert and then mother nature put great big gorges in the way. Had to drop all the way back down to practically sea level (from a high of about 1,300 m). Had to do that a few times on days 9 and 10. I though the desert was flat. Not always ... apparently. Fortunately, I was warned prior to entering.
Met a biking couple from France, Veronique and Jean Claude. They are on mountain bikes and looking for more of the back roads (and using bus or truck transport to cover distances when necessary). Very interesting, Veronique posted notices in France to find a riding partner.
DESERT STORM ... on Day 9 the final descent into Cuya was crazy wild. There was a tremendous updraft from the valley bottom. Could barely pedal against it. It was tough to keep the bike upright. Fasten you seatbelts folks its a bump ride. Put my bandana over my face along with my wrap-around glasses (formed a good shield against pelting grains of sand). Any stronger gusts and I would have had to hunker down for a while.
Day 10 was great. Favorable cross winds. Felt great. Was a long day but I felt good. That is when my mojo came back.
Day 11 was a tough day. I got wore out near the end of the day. Wind and pavement won the battle that day ... but I´ll be back. The winds were predominately from the west. I had to ¨turn¨west from the desert towards the coast. Hence headwinds. Part of the game with biking.
Day 12 and 13 have been entirely riding along the coast which has provided me time to recuperate my energy. Favorable winds and sea level riding has been a great break. Got my tent out last night for the first time. Worked great! Except I shouldn´t have had that cup of coffee before bed time. I was a little nervous about the local marauding dogs in the area. They came by for one visit and then left me in peace.
Hope to download a few photos.
By the way ... here is my traveling e-mail address for those who wish not to post.
darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
ps. I broke the 1,000 km mark today. Currently at about 1,060 km.
pps. Again, very nice to hear from everybody!
Arica to Tocopilla (my present 10-20 ... location for you non CB buffs).
Distance 535 km, 31 hrs total time, 27 hrs riding time, 5,730 m elevation gain, 5,730 elevation loss. Both start and end locations are on the coast.
Here are the highlights ... I got my mojo back! My tummy was a little upset after a meal before arriving in Arica. I think that was part of the problem. The other thing is that my body has been acclimatized to high altitude. Now I feel a little `super charged´due to the lower elevation. It will wear off though quickly. Favorable winds have helped the last couple of days.
Days 9 and 10 were tough, tough, tough. Had to ascend up to the desert and then mother nature put great big gorges in the way. Had to drop all the way back down to practically sea level (from a high of about 1,300 m). Had to do that a few times on days 9 and 10. I though the desert was flat. Not always ... apparently. Fortunately, I was warned prior to entering.
Met a biking couple from France, Veronique and Jean Claude. They are on mountain bikes and looking for more of the back roads (and using bus or truck transport to cover distances when necessary). Very interesting, Veronique posted notices in France to find a riding partner.
DESERT STORM ... on Day 9 the final descent into Cuya was crazy wild. There was a tremendous updraft from the valley bottom. Could barely pedal against it. It was tough to keep the bike upright. Fasten you seatbelts folks its a bump ride. Put my bandana over my face along with my wrap-around glasses (formed a good shield against pelting grains of sand). Any stronger gusts and I would have had to hunker down for a while.
Day 10 was great. Favorable cross winds. Felt great. Was a long day but I felt good. That is when my mojo came back.
Day 11 was a tough day. I got wore out near the end of the day. Wind and pavement won the battle that day ... but I´ll be back. The winds were predominately from the west. I had to ¨turn¨west from the desert towards the coast. Hence headwinds. Part of the game with biking.
Day 12 and 13 have been entirely riding along the coast which has provided me time to recuperate my energy. Favorable winds and sea level riding has been a great break. Got my tent out last night for the first time. Worked great! Except I shouldn´t have had that cup of coffee before bed time. I was a little nervous about the local marauding dogs in the area. They came by for one visit and then left me in peace.
Hope to download a few photos.
By the way ... here is my traveling e-mail address for those who wish not to post.
darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
ps. I broke the 1,000 km mark today. Currently at about 1,060 km.
pps. Again, very nice to hear from everybody!
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Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
