Day 63. Villa O`Higgins
Was able to enjoy Christmas day off with my new found cycling friends (Kirsty, Damien, Marcos and Yukito).
Day 64. Villa O´Higgins to Lago del Desierto (or "Through the Worm Hole")
In the most unlikely turn of events, Team Swiss/Japan united forces with the solo Canadian Team in a concerted effort to confront this most challenging of days. I refer to the remote border crossing between Chile and Argentina.
Let me explain the process please ... a short 7 km cycle, followed by a 3 hour ferry ride, followed by 14 km of very rough rocky road, river crossing, 7 km of demanding hiking trail (not made for touring bikes ... we had to push, pull and beg our bikes to squeeze through this trail), go through the Argentina immigration, then another 1 hour ferry crossing. At the end of this point we camped.
The 7 km "hike a bike" and river crossing was definitely the most demanding section. Bike and clothing absorbed a lot of punishment this day. Fortunately, no weld or metal failures. However, I did flat three times.
Today was very special as I spent it riding with my former rivals turned amigos, Yukito and Marcos. Crossing the river was huge FUN. I fell in twice. Once with some of Marcos´ gear and one time with mine. Whoops! The biggest challenge was about the fifth time across the river (shuttling gear) and I had Yukito´s mandolin. I did not want to get it wet. Fortunately, I did not slip.
We camped this night. Had a beautiful spot with a view of a mountain with a glacier.
Side note on Yukito ...
This fella is a tough as they come. He has racked up about 10,000 km, starting in Quito, Ecuador. He picked up all of his gear in Quito and decided on a "whim" to do the trip. Travels with a small guittar, low tech gear and not much of it. And never a complaint from him. As friendly and tough as they come. My friend.
Total time 11 hrs 30 min, ride time 4 hrs 10 min, 33 km, elevation gain 964 m, elevation loss 682 m
Day 65. Lago del Desierto to El Chaltén.
This road was short but very bumpy. Just had to go very slow in a effort to reduce the jolts to the equipment and body.
Total time 2 hrs 55 min, ride time 2 hrs 36 min, 36 km, elevation gain 190 m, elevation loss 280 m.
My location now?
Well, you can look at the map and basically I am at Mt. Fitz Roy. The mountain itself is about 12 km away from the village of El Chaltén (again, El Chaltén is the original indigous name of the mountain).
Coming Up ...
Will trekking for about 3 days in this Argentinian "Park of the Glaciers".
PS. Some people have written me and I have not had time to respond personally. Eventually, I will. This means people like Uncle Ralph & Aunt Clara, Martin, Penny, Cousin FRank, and a few others ...
PPS. Internet is very slow here - via satellite. Will endeavour to upload some photos
Friday, December 28, 2007
Monday, December 24, 2007
Days 60 to 62, Cochrane to Villa O´Higgins
Well, the most remote part of the Carretera Austral and the final leg did not disappoint expectations with respect to beautiful mountain vistas, winding roads, lakes, rivers and waterfalls cascading from the mountain sides. The road was in remarkabling good condition (probably due much less large vehicles).
Have started to see more and more cyclists on this (apparently quite popular) Carretera Austral.
Showdown at the "OK Carretera Austral"
In Cochrane, the night before leaving I finally met up with the infamous Swiss/ Japonese team of the tall and wiry Marcos and Yukito. I had heard about this pair through the "rumour mill" (other travellers and in the Hostals). This dynamic duo both ride Trek Bikes and started their journey in Ecuador. We were all leaving Cochrane the next day. Yukito met me with an icy stare his message, without words, was clear ... "you and those skinny 35 mm tires are going to be begging for the next bus". It took all of my courage to meet his look. I thought to myself ...¨"just wait until these big 700 mm rims get rolling, just wait and see who is the last samuri eating the last spicy tuna roll".
On the first stage of three it was neither the Canadian Solo Team or the Japanese/Swiss Dynamic duo winning the first stage! It was the mixed team from the UK, Kirsty and Damien, taking stage 1! They put in late charge and put to rest about 110 km of dust behind them.
Team Japon-Swiss missed the first Ferry the next day but showed their true grit and put in a punishing 130 to take stage 2. Meanwhile, Solo Canada was caught in the middle ... bolting ahead of Team UK.
Now behind the 8-Ball, I pulled out all the stops and decided an all out effort was my only hope. On the bike at 6 30 am and arrived at Villa O´Higgins at 9 30 am. Which turned out to be a comfortable 3 hours ahead of fierce rivals.
OK, my mind wanders when I ride
The other story... (the real one)
The group of us are now comfortably lodged down at the same Hostal in Villa O´Higgins. The "real" Yukito is a super cool dude who cycles with a small mandolin and both him and Marcos are the friendliest of fellas! With Team UK (Kirsty and Damien) we will be spending Christmas day together. Kirst and Damien are also fun and kind folks - they made me a hot meal while waiting for the ferry in Puerto Yungay. We have already enjoyed a nice meal and some cold beverages. Very good company!
Going through the Wormhole...
And on Dec 26th. Yukito, Marcos and myself will make the remote crossing into Argentina. Will require 2 Ferry crossings, 28 km of trekking/biking, 40 km of dirt road. If all goes well on Dec 28th we will all "pop out" in the Argentinian village of "El Chalten" (basically right in front of Fitz Roy)
Did you know?
El Chalten is the indigunous name for Mt Fitz Roy. Mt Fitz Roy was named after the capitain of the infamous shio, The Beagle, that took Darwin on his South American expedition.
My location...
If you look on the little map, I am about 80 north of Mt. Fitz Roy.
Stats...
Day 60 Cochrane - Camping
Total time 8 hrs 18 min, ride time 6 hrs 37 min, 97 km, elev gain 1,215 m, elev loss 1,340 m.
Day 61 Camping - Camping (again, beautiful spot)
Total time 8 hrs 3 min, ride 5 hrs 21 min, 76 km, elevation gain 1,561 m, elevation loss 1,305 m
Day 62 Camping - Villa O´Higgins
Total time 3 hrs 11 min, ride 2 hrs 44 min, 51 km, elevation gain 513 m, elevation loss 520 m.
Photos...www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
and most importantly ... MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!
Thank you to all my dear friends and family who have been joining me on this trip. Your company is WONDERFUL. I would not want to be travelling alone.
Have started to see more and more cyclists on this (apparently quite popular) Carretera Austral.
Showdown at the "OK Carretera Austral"
In Cochrane, the night before leaving I finally met up with the infamous Swiss/ Japonese team of the tall and wiry Marcos and Yukito. I had heard about this pair through the "rumour mill" (other travellers and in the Hostals). This dynamic duo both ride Trek Bikes and started their journey in Ecuador. We were all leaving Cochrane the next day. Yukito met me with an icy stare his message, without words, was clear ... "you and those skinny 35 mm tires are going to be begging for the next bus". It took all of my courage to meet his look. I thought to myself ...¨"just wait until these big 700 mm rims get rolling, just wait and see who is the last samuri eating the last spicy tuna roll".
On the first stage of three it was neither the Canadian Solo Team or the Japanese/Swiss Dynamic duo winning the first stage! It was the mixed team from the UK, Kirsty and Damien, taking stage 1! They put in late charge and put to rest about 110 km of dust behind them.
Team Japon-Swiss missed the first Ferry the next day but showed their true grit and put in a punishing 130 to take stage 2. Meanwhile, Solo Canada was caught in the middle ... bolting ahead of Team UK.
Now behind the 8-Ball, I pulled out all the stops and decided an all out effort was my only hope. On the bike at 6 30 am and arrived at Villa O´Higgins at 9 30 am. Which turned out to be a comfortable 3 hours ahead of fierce rivals.
OK, my mind wanders when I ride
The other story... (the real one)
The group of us are now comfortably lodged down at the same Hostal in Villa O´Higgins. The "real" Yukito is a super cool dude who cycles with a small mandolin and both him and Marcos are the friendliest of fellas! With Team UK (Kirsty and Damien) we will be spending Christmas day together. Kirst and Damien are also fun and kind folks - they made me a hot meal while waiting for the ferry in Puerto Yungay. We have already enjoyed a nice meal and some cold beverages. Very good company!
Going through the Wormhole...
And on Dec 26th. Yukito, Marcos and myself will make the remote crossing into Argentina. Will require 2 Ferry crossings, 28 km of trekking/biking, 40 km of dirt road. If all goes well on Dec 28th we will all "pop out" in the Argentinian village of "El Chalten" (basically right in front of Fitz Roy)
Did you know?
El Chalten is the indigunous name for Mt Fitz Roy. Mt Fitz Roy was named after the capitain of the infamous shio, The Beagle, that took Darwin on his South American expedition.
My location...
If you look on the little map, I am about 80 north of Mt. Fitz Roy.
Stats...
Day 60 Cochrane - Camping
Total time 8 hrs 18 min, ride time 6 hrs 37 min, 97 km, elev gain 1,215 m, elev loss 1,340 m.
Day 61 Camping - Camping (again, beautiful spot)
Total time 8 hrs 3 min, ride 5 hrs 21 min, 76 km, elevation gain 1,561 m, elevation loss 1,305 m
Day 62 Camping - Villa O´Higgins
Total time 3 hrs 11 min, ride 2 hrs 44 min, 51 km, elevation gain 513 m, elevation loss 520 m.
Photos...www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
and most importantly ... MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!
Thank you to all my dear friends and family who have been joining me on this trip. Your company is WONDERFUL. I would not want to be travelling alone.
Friday, December 21, 2007
Days 58 & 59, Puerto Río Tranquilo to Puerto Bertrand - Cochrane
The question was raised if there are trucks. Well, yes there are. Plenty of small and big cargo trucks. They are tend to drive very fast and spit up a lot of dust. I tend to yield (read completely ride to the side of the road and stop) when one of the big-boys comes haulín' ass towards me.
My brother is posting for me as I can´t enter the blog from here. Don´t know if I can get new photos. Please check though.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Day 58, Puerto Río Tranquilo - Puerto Bertrand
More cruising through the heart of the Patagonia along the Carretera Austral. The road can get very rough at times which at times allows a max speed of only 9 or 10 km-hr. Lots of twists, turns and short steep climbs.
Believe me, these climbs really make you pay a toll by the end of the day.
Ran into three veteran riders from Spain who were going in the opposite direction. It was great to chat with them as they provided me with critical intelligence on the upcoming stages, which are hardcore to say the least. More on this later.
Total time 5 hrs 37 min, ride time 4 hrs 37 min, 67 km, elevation gain 1,239 m, elevation loss 1,217 m.
Day 59, Puerto Bertrand - Cochrane
(I was wondering if I made a major wrong turn and ended up just north of Calgary. For those of you who don´t who ... we have a pueblo called Cochrane as well).
The road continues to get rougher and rougher the further south I venture. Go figure. I flatted today which is my first in a LONG time. First flat on the entire Carretera Austral. Sixth flat overall. Can´t complain.
Today was the absolute first day that it has been CLEAR BLUE SKY since enterring the Carrertera Austral. It was thoroughly soaked up by the pale gringo.
Total time 4 hrs 51 min, ride time 3 hrs 30 min (approx. my odo is back at the hostal), 48 km, elevation gain 1,054 m, elevation loss 1,104 m.
Upcoming ...
OK, I am going over Survivor Man episodes in my head as it is 230 km to the next village. Oh yeah, and one short ferry crossing of fjord. This will be a real test. I have got to carry three days' worth of food ... or I will be eating pineneedles, beatles, moss and dirt.
I am hoping to arrive in the very remote village of "Villa O´Higgins" on the evening of Dec 24th. I would LOVE to take the day off on this very special day coming up.
Then on Dec 26th (if all goes well) I start the arduous cross into Argentina which requires two ferry crossings and several hours of trekking. This part requires hiring a guide agency to accompany you. I´ll try to keep my mouth shut and wheels rolling as I will be pushing my bike.
No contact for about 4 days.
PS. Merry Christmas !! ... in advance
PD. Hola E, Me alegro que estés llegado bien a tu tierra. Saludos a todos de mi parte por fa. F ue un actor en las fotos. No fui yo. Hiciste muy bien con el oso. No tuviste ningún pánico. Eres la mujer!
PPPS. Dezzi, ... I mean Desi, please pass on my best wishes to Joni and Frank and others from the old Gang. Gee, we are old aren´t we?
________________________________________
My brother is posting for me as I can´t enter the blog from here. Don´t know if I can get new photos. Please check though.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Day 58, Puerto Río Tranquilo - Puerto Bertrand
More cruising through the heart of the Patagonia along the Carretera Austral. The road can get very rough at times which at times allows a max speed of only 9 or 10 km-hr. Lots of twists, turns and short steep climbs.
Believe me, these climbs really make you pay a toll by the end of the day.
Ran into three veteran riders from Spain who were going in the opposite direction. It was great to chat with them as they provided me with critical intelligence on the upcoming stages, which are hardcore to say the least. More on this later.
Total time 5 hrs 37 min, ride time 4 hrs 37 min, 67 km, elevation gain 1,239 m, elevation loss 1,217 m.
Day 59, Puerto Bertrand - Cochrane
(I was wondering if I made a major wrong turn and ended up just north of Calgary. For those of you who don´t who ... we have a pueblo called Cochrane as well).
The road continues to get rougher and rougher the further south I venture. Go figure. I flatted today which is my first in a LONG time. First flat on the entire Carretera Austral. Sixth flat overall. Can´t complain.
Today was the absolute first day that it has been CLEAR BLUE SKY since enterring the Carrertera Austral. It was thoroughly soaked up by the pale gringo.
Total time 4 hrs 51 min, ride time 3 hrs 30 min (approx. my odo is back at the hostal), 48 km, elevation gain 1,054 m, elevation loss 1,104 m.
Upcoming ...
OK, I am going over Survivor Man episodes in my head as it is 230 km to the next village. Oh yeah, and one short ferry crossing of fjord. This will be a real test. I have got to carry three days' worth of food ... or I will be eating pineneedles, beatles, moss and dirt.
I am hoping to arrive in the very remote village of "Villa O´Higgins" on the evening of Dec 24th. I would LOVE to take the day off on this very special day coming up.
Then on Dec 26th (if all goes well) I start the arduous cross into Argentina which requires two ferry crossings and several hours of trekking. This part requires hiring a guide agency to accompany you. I´ll try to keep my mouth shut and wheels rolling as I will be pushing my bike.
No contact for about 4 days.
PS. Merry Christmas !! ... in advance
PD. Hola E, Me alegro que estés llegado bien a tu tierra. Saludos a todos de mi parte por fa. F ue un actor en las fotos. No fui yo. Hiciste muy bien con el oso. No tuviste ningún pánico. Eres la mujer!
PPPS. Dezzi, ... I mean Desi, please pass on my best wishes to Joni and Frank and others from the old Gang. Gee, we are old aren´t we?
________________________________________
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Stage 56 & 57, Coyhaique-Río Manso to Puerto Río Tranquilo
Stage 56, Coyhaique to Camping at Río Manso
Stage 56 was a stage for the climbers. With two mountain passes totalling over 2,000 vertical m and each competitor obligated to carry 50 lbs of gear plus as much food for the day as they desire it wasn´t a surprise that the pace was slow off the start. The pelaton was slightly down in numbers but the stage went on. The big surprise of the day was the adjustment of the finish line from the village of Villa de Cerro de Castillo to a desolate spot 20 km down the road by the meandering river of Río Manso. Once again, Mekechuk picked up first and last place.
Total time 8 hrs 36 min, ride time 6 hrs 39 min, 117 km, 2,079 m gain, 2,004 m loss.
Stage 57. Camping at Río Manso to Puerto Río Tranquilo
Today, I found myself with not wanting to get out of the tent. I was waiting for it to start raining and for the race officials to delay the start. Much to my dismay, the weather remained only cloudy and threatening to rain. I urged officials to consider the distance to the next village, 101 km. They did not budge. Everyone was obligated to depart at 7:30 am. I missed the start by 5 minutes!
Total time 6 hrs 52 min, ride time 5 hrs 58 min, 101 km, elev gain 1,100 m, elev loss 1,184 m.
Coming Up .. .Continuing south. Next major objective will be the tiny village of Villa O´Higgins. At that point will be a HUGE ADVENTURE crossing back into Argentina and passing right in front of the ominous Mt. Fitz Roy.
Mechanical
The "weld repair" on the rear eyelet continues to hold true. However, it is one of those things that is difficult to evaluate. If it breaks it will likely happen without warning. It is very difficult to visually see if there are cracks.
I continue to carry some load on my back when riding on gravel. My back up plan would be to try to come across a 50 or 60 liter pack and carry all of the load in the rear panniers on my back. Getting a pack would be a problem though. Would likely have to hop on a bus to the closest village that rents or sell such gear.
Mileage ...
The odometer is now at 5,109 km. If only it could talk.
Photos ... More posted on ...
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PPS. And again, Merry Christmas to all. I hope that everyone is enjoying Holiday Season with friends, family and loved ones.
Stage 56 was a stage for the climbers. With two mountain passes totalling over 2,000 vertical m and each competitor obligated to carry 50 lbs of gear plus as much food for the day as they desire it wasn´t a surprise that the pace was slow off the start. The pelaton was slightly down in numbers but the stage went on. The big surprise of the day was the adjustment of the finish line from the village of Villa de Cerro de Castillo to a desolate spot 20 km down the road by the meandering river of Río Manso. Once again, Mekechuk picked up first and last place.
Total time 8 hrs 36 min, ride time 6 hrs 39 min, 117 km, 2,079 m gain, 2,004 m loss.
Stage 57. Camping at Río Manso to Puerto Río Tranquilo
Today, I found myself with not wanting to get out of the tent. I was waiting for it to start raining and for the race officials to delay the start. Much to my dismay, the weather remained only cloudy and threatening to rain. I urged officials to consider the distance to the next village, 101 km. They did not budge. Everyone was obligated to depart at 7:30 am. I missed the start by 5 minutes!
Total time 6 hrs 52 min, ride time 5 hrs 58 min, 101 km, elev gain 1,100 m, elev loss 1,184 m.
Coming Up .. .Continuing south. Next major objective will be the tiny village of Villa O´Higgins. At that point will be a HUGE ADVENTURE crossing back into Argentina and passing right in front of the ominous Mt. Fitz Roy.
Mechanical
The "weld repair" on the rear eyelet continues to hold true. However, it is one of those things that is difficult to evaluate. If it breaks it will likely happen without warning. It is very difficult to visually see if there are cracks.
I continue to carry some load on my back when riding on gravel. My back up plan would be to try to come across a 50 or 60 liter pack and carry all of the load in the rear panniers on my back. Getting a pack would be a problem though. Would likely have to hop on a bus to the closest village that rents or sell such gear.
Mileage ...
The odometer is now at 5,109 km. If only it could talk.
Photos ... More posted on ...
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
PPS. And again, Merry Christmas to all. I hope that everyone is enjoying Holiday Season with friends, family and loved ones.
Monday, December 17, 2007
Days 52 to 55, Carretera Austral
This is the first day that I have found internet access for quite a while. It´s not that I have been ignoring anybody. Am thoroughly enjoying riding through the Patagonia. Even prettier than expected.
This section is a "different kettle of fish". Most of these roads continue to be gravel. Speeds and distances able to attain are more in the mountain biking range. Lots of short steep climbs as well. My average distance is only around 72 km/day (as opposed to about 115 km/day). I am trying to ride every day in order offset the slower pace by consistancy.
Also, it´s not so bad going a little slower through this scenic portion.
Photos ...
I have posted a dozen new photos directly in "Picasa". It is much quicker to download and the photos are clear.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Where Am I?
If you look on the map, I am halfway between Bariloche and Fitz Roy. The route I have shown on the map is pretty much where I am going right now. If all goes well sometime around Dec 31 I should be passing right in front of the infamous Mt. Fitz Roy. A small village of El Chaltén is also close by.
And on a daily basis ...
Day 52. La Junta to Puyahuapi.
Was a short riding day. Spent some time riding to some hot springs adjacent to an ocean fjord. And yes, I got my fur wet. I wanted to swim in the ocean but didn´t think I would do it in frigid water. Was easy because you could walk into the ocean and then jump back into the hot water.
Total time 3 hrs 3 min, ride time 2 hrs 30 min, 45 km, 582 m gain, 620 m loss. All gravel.
Day 53. Puyahuapi to Villa Amengual.
This was a looooong day. A section of the road was closed due to construction "dynamiting" from 10 am to 2 pm. Used that time to deke up a trail to catch a glimpse of a cool hanging glacier. Lots of elevation gain this day and kilometers.
A very friendly group of Israeli travellers shared a hot lunch with me and some hot tea. Really helped as it was a bit of a tiring day.
Total time 10 hrs 38 min, ride time 6 hrs, 94 km, elevation gain 1,980 m, elevation loss 1,550 m. All gravel. Note: plus 2 hours hiking.
Day 54 Villa Amengual to Hidden Camping Spot
All the spots in the next village for accounted for. No room for smelly Canadian cyclists. Have tent will sleep. I needed an easy day as yesterday seemed to bring back my cold. Was starting to cough again last night.
Total time 5 hrs 15 min, ride time 4 hrs 19 min, 79 km, elevation gain 720 m, elevation loss 895 m. Mix of pavement and gravel.
Day 55 Hidden Camping Spot to Coyhaique
Yesterday´s relatively easy day and nice snooze made me feel much better. The cold is still lingering a little but I feel much, much better. This is the last major village for quite a well. This section was all paved. A very nice break!
Am using this short day to take care of list of chores.
Total time 3 hrs 53 min, ride time 3 hrs 31 min, 71 km, elevation gain 882 m, elevation loss 715.
Coming Up ...
Internet access will be very sparse for a couple of weeks. I should be in contact in about another 4 days or so. Still heading South!
ps. And Merry Christmas to everybody. Enjoy the Holiday Season in the very best way that you can.
pps. Sorry I can´t be with you Mum, Dad, Joy, Mark.
This section is a "different kettle of fish". Most of these roads continue to be gravel. Speeds and distances able to attain are more in the mountain biking range. Lots of short steep climbs as well. My average distance is only around 72 km/day (as opposed to about 115 km/day). I am trying to ride every day in order offset the slower pace by consistancy.
Also, it´s not so bad going a little slower through this scenic portion.
Photos ...
I have posted a dozen new photos directly in "Picasa". It is much quicker to download and the photos are clear.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
Where Am I?
If you look on the map, I am halfway between Bariloche and Fitz Roy. The route I have shown on the map is pretty much where I am going right now. If all goes well sometime around Dec 31 I should be passing right in front of the infamous Mt. Fitz Roy. A small village of El Chaltén is also close by.
And on a daily basis ...
Day 52. La Junta to Puyahuapi.
Was a short riding day. Spent some time riding to some hot springs adjacent to an ocean fjord. And yes, I got my fur wet. I wanted to swim in the ocean but didn´t think I would do it in frigid water. Was easy because you could walk into the ocean and then jump back into the hot water.
Total time 3 hrs 3 min, ride time 2 hrs 30 min, 45 km, 582 m gain, 620 m loss. All gravel.
Day 53. Puyahuapi to Villa Amengual.
This was a looooong day. A section of the road was closed due to construction "dynamiting" from 10 am to 2 pm. Used that time to deke up a trail to catch a glimpse of a cool hanging glacier. Lots of elevation gain this day and kilometers.
A very friendly group of Israeli travellers shared a hot lunch with me and some hot tea. Really helped as it was a bit of a tiring day.
Total time 10 hrs 38 min, ride time 6 hrs, 94 km, elevation gain 1,980 m, elevation loss 1,550 m. All gravel. Note: plus 2 hours hiking.
Day 54 Villa Amengual to Hidden Camping Spot
All the spots in the next village for accounted for. No room for smelly Canadian cyclists. Have tent will sleep. I needed an easy day as yesterday seemed to bring back my cold. Was starting to cough again last night.
Total time 5 hrs 15 min, ride time 4 hrs 19 min, 79 km, elevation gain 720 m, elevation loss 895 m. Mix of pavement and gravel.
Day 55 Hidden Camping Spot to Coyhaique
Yesterday´s relatively easy day and nice snooze made me feel much better. The cold is still lingering a little but I feel much, much better. This is the last major village for quite a well. This section was all paved. A very nice break!
Am using this short day to take care of list of chores.
Total time 3 hrs 53 min, ride time 3 hrs 31 min, 71 km, elevation gain 882 m, elevation loss 715.
Coming Up ...
Internet access will be very sparse for a couple of weeks. I should be in contact in about another 4 days or so. Still heading South!
ps. And Merry Christmas to everybody. Enjoy the Holiday Season in the very best way that you can.
pps. Sorry I can´t be with you Mum, Dad, Joy, Mark.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Day 51, Villa Santa Lucía to La Junta
Well, there is a reason why this part of the world is so beautifully lush and that it is like an over-grown garden of every variety of plant life, well, it rains a LOT. I am in the heart of the Carretera Austral in which this next park has an average rainfall of 4,000 mm of rain a year.
Yesterday, I left Villa Sta. Lucía very late due to the constant rain. I decided to ride just because making progress is a requirement. Soldier on! Well, I paid a price. Got completely soaked in spite of riding in rain gear. Bike got completely dirty. I spent this morning cleaning the drive-train which is essential otherwise the sand and grit will chew through the metal cogs and chain in no time flat and I will be walking.
I feel very privileged to be able to ride my bike in this region. The road twists, turns, rises, falls with the backdrop of lush mountainsides.
Tot time 7 hrs 42 min, ride time 3 hrs 45 min, 68 km, 811 m gain, 1,065 m loss.
NOTE: Had to take refuge twice during the worst part of the rain.
Coming Up ...
Today will be a short day with respect to distance. I need to choose my camping or lodging places very carefully. Don´t want to get stuck somewhere without being able to find decent refuge from the rain.
Will be heading south on the Carretera Austral. Have about another 700 or 800 km until I hit a major "milestone" called Villa O´Higgins which will then require me to cross over to Argentina. This part will be a HUGE adventure.
Two ferries, plus about 80 km of probably pushing my bike through a "goat trail" Will be out of contact again for several days. Internet connections will be very sparse.
Photos ... Unfortunately, photos will have to wait for a few days. Internet connection is via satellites and very slow.
ps Very nice to hear from everybody! Thank you for keeping in touch.
pps Daisy, you crazy gal! I was hoping that Pod (or somebody) might connect you to this page. OK ... I´ll say it ... nice to hear from you!
Yesterday, I left Villa Sta. Lucía very late due to the constant rain. I decided to ride just because making progress is a requirement. Soldier on! Well, I paid a price. Got completely soaked in spite of riding in rain gear. Bike got completely dirty. I spent this morning cleaning the drive-train which is essential otherwise the sand and grit will chew through the metal cogs and chain in no time flat and I will be walking.
I feel very privileged to be able to ride my bike in this region. The road twists, turns, rises, falls with the backdrop of lush mountainsides.
Tot time 7 hrs 42 min, ride time 3 hrs 45 min, 68 km, 811 m gain, 1,065 m loss.
NOTE: Had to take refuge twice during the worst part of the rain.
Coming Up ...
Today will be a short day with respect to distance. I need to choose my camping or lodging places very carefully. Don´t want to get stuck somewhere without being able to find decent refuge from the rain.
Will be heading south on the Carretera Austral. Have about another 700 or 800 km until I hit a major "milestone" called Villa O´Higgins which will then require me to cross over to Argentina. This part will be a HUGE adventure.
Two ferries, plus about 80 km of probably pushing my bike through a "goat trail" Will be out of contact again for several days. Internet connections will be very sparse.
Photos ... Unfortunately, photos will have to wait for a few days. Internet connection is via satellites and very slow.
ps Very nice to hear from everybody! Thank you for keeping in touch.
pps Daisy, you crazy gal! I was hoping that Pod (or somebody) might connect you to this page. OK ... I´ll say it ... nice to hear from you!
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Day 50, Futaleufú to Villa Santa Lucia
Today was well ... pure magic. What a great job mother nature did once again.
Rode through lush mountainous terrain, rich green trees starting to encroach on the road, with snow-capped mountains in the background, crystal clear streams rushing down from the mountainsides, lush pasture land with what appeared to be real cowboys herding sheep and cattle, rustic ranches. Deep blue lakes every so often.
This was all on a gravel road of pretty good quality (as far as gravel roads go). With that said, of course there were pot-holes, washboards, sections of deep coarse gravel as well. Progress was much slower than expected. I was limited due to the shaking, rattling, rocking and rolling. The bike performed admirably, however, I wouldn´t have wanted to push it any more.
The evening at Futaleufú was really cool as well. Stayed at a beautiful hostal called the "Antigua Casona" (The Big Old House). Spent the evening evening chit-chatting with the owners (Fernando, his son Fernando, and the Señor, Gladys). Also a marine biologist who is working in the area, Eduardo.
Total time 6 hrs 34 min, ride time 5 hrs 31 min, 76 km, elev gain 1,040 m, elev loss 1,130 m. Avg speed was 13.8 km/hr (by far the slowest all trip due to the bumpy gravel roads).
Rode through lush mountainous terrain, rich green trees starting to encroach on the road, with snow-capped mountains in the background, crystal clear streams rushing down from the mountainsides, lush pasture land with what appeared to be real cowboys herding sheep and cattle, rustic ranches. Deep blue lakes every so often.
This was all on a gravel road of pretty good quality (as far as gravel roads go). With that said, of course there were pot-holes, washboards, sections of deep coarse gravel as well. Progress was much slower than expected. I was limited due to the shaking, rattling, rocking and rolling. The bike performed admirably, however, I wouldn´t have wanted to push it any more.
The evening at Futaleufú was really cool as well. Stayed at a beautiful hostal called the "Antigua Casona" (The Big Old House). Spent the evening evening chit-chatting with the owners (Fernando, his son Fernando, and the Señor, Gladys). Also a marine biologist who is working in the area, Eduardo.
Total time 6 hrs 34 min, ride time 5 hrs 31 min, 76 km, elev gain 1,040 m, elev loss 1,130 m. Avg speed was 13.8 km/hr (by far the slowest all trip due to the bumpy gravel roads).
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Day 49, Esquel to the "Fu" (Futaleufú)
Well, today was the easiest climb to the top of a pass I have ever had. It was downhill! Strange but true. Basically, head due West today and crossed back into Chile. The ride required about 45 km of riding on rough, Argentian gravel roads ... and into a head wind. Hence, had a very low average speed today.
Tot time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 21 min, 73 km, elev gain 541 m, elev loss 761 m.
Coming up ...
Will head west tomorrow and after about 78 km of riding on gravel roads will intersect with the infamous "Carretera Austral" (Hwy No. 7). This highway is almost entirely gravel road and progress will be MUCH SLOWER. Please don´t expect any boomer days of 140 km. I think something over 70 km a day on this road will be a success. I have about a 1,000 km to cover on this beautiful highway.
Am hoping ...
Am hoping that the fierce winds I encountered on the Argentian Steppe (east side of the Andes) will be much milder. At any rate, eventually I have to cross back into Argentina once again near the very far south and apparently there there is absolutely no escaping the wrath of the winds. However, in the meantime,
ps. I am really happy that you like the clearer images through Picasa!
pps. Nola, will be spending Christmas riding the bike and sleeping in my tent. Hopefully, will be getting into the "deep south".
Tot time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 21 min, 73 km, elev gain 541 m, elev loss 761 m.
Coming up ...
Will head west tomorrow and after about 78 km of riding on gravel roads will intersect with the infamous "Carretera Austral" (Hwy No. 7). This highway is almost entirely gravel road and progress will be MUCH SLOWER. Please don´t expect any boomer days of 140 km. I think something over 70 km a day on this road will be a success. I have about a 1,000 km to cover on this beautiful highway.
Am hoping ...
Am hoping that the fierce winds I encountered on the Argentian Steppe (east side of the Andes) will be much milder. At any rate, eventually I have to cross back into Argentina once again near the very far south and apparently there there is absolutely no escaping the wrath of the winds. However, in the meantime,
ps. I am really happy that you like the clearer images through Picasa!
pps. Nola, will be spending Christmas riding the bike and sleeping in my tent. Hopefully, will be getting into the "deep south".
Monday, December 10, 2007
Days 47 & 48, El Bolsón-Epuyén to Esquel
Day 47, El Bolsón to Epuyén
Water was coming out of the sky. Very dark and blue clouds. Had to wait until things came into equilibrium (ie, waited until the rain stopped) before riding. Didn´t think I´d even ride and them .. POOM, it cleared up. I scrambled the troops and we left very late in the day. Made it a few kilometers south to a tiny village of Epuyén which is on the shore of a lake.
ps. Did get a little wet. Still gorgeous riding through the Lake District.
Tot time, 2 hrs 55 min, ride time 2 hrs 41 min, 57 km, elev gain 600 m, elev loss 610 m
Day 48, Epuyén to Esquel
OK, I wasn´t going to say it but I´ll come right out and say it. This was a real "bitch slap". I was warned though, so I had an idea. There were some SERIOUS winds happening. Tossing me around every which way but loose. Unfortunately, I think there is a LOT more of this to come. Beautiful riding but please, lay off the wind a little. I tried everything, "come on this is all you got Mother Nature!¨". Actually, in the big picture, I was probably let off easy. I had better toughen my hide up because this party has just begun.
Tot time, 7 hrs 15 min, ride time 6 hrs 38 min, 130 km, elev gain 1665 m, elev loss, 1425 m
Coming Up....
Will be heading west and if all goes well crossing the Chilean border (once again, making like a billy-goat and climbing over the Andes) and probably will stay in the small pueblo of Futaleufú which is THE South American MECCA for kayaking and rafting. Locals & "dialed in gringos" call it "The Fu". I was saying it all day today because I think it sounds cool. Try it if you like. Hey, I´m the bike a long time. My mind wanders and apparently, a lot of silly stuff is going through the noodle.
Shortly after that, will start to ride the infamous "Carretera Austral". Will chat more about that later.
ps. Didn´t camp as expected due to the rain delay throwing off my intended destinations. Probably a blessing in disguise.
Link to CLEAR Photos....
OK, here is the solution for the time being with respect to "blurry photos". You can visit this public web page and view the photos through "Picasa". All photos are stored there and are NOT blurry.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
hopefully, this will work and you can enjoy the views of the Patagonia a little better.
Water was coming out of the sky. Very dark and blue clouds. Had to wait until things came into equilibrium (ie, waited until the rain stopped) before riding. Didn´t think I´d even ride and them .. POOM, it cleared up. I scrambled the troops and we left very late in the day. Made it a few kilometers south to a tiny village of Epuyén which is on the shore of a lake.
ps. Did get a little wet. Still gorgeous riding through the Lake District.
Tot time, 2 hrs 55 min, ride time 2 hrs 41 min, 57 km, elev gain 600 m, elev loss 610 m
Day 48, Epuyén to Esquel
OK, I wasn´t going to say it but I´ll come right out and say it. This was a real "bitch slap". I was warned though, so I had an idea. There were some SERIOUS winds happening. Tossing me around every which way but loose. Unfortunately, I think there is a LOT more of this to come. Beautiful riding but please, lay off the wind a little. I tried everything, "come on this is all you got Mother Nature!¨". Actually, in the big picture, I was probably let off easy. I had better toughen my hide up because this party has just begun.
Tot time, 7 hrs 15 min, ride time 6 hrs 38 min, 130 km, elev gain 1665 m, elev loss, 1425 m
Coming Up....
Will be heading west and if all goes well crossing the Chilean border (once again, making like a billy-goat and climbing over the Andes) and probably will stay in the small pueblo of Futaleufú which is THE South American MECCA for kayaking and rafting. Locals & "dialed in gringos" call it "The Fu". I was saying it all day today because I think it sounds cool. Try it if you like. Hey, I´m the bike a long time. My mind wanders and apparently, a lot of silly stuff is going through the noodle.
Shortly after that, will start to ride the infamous "Carretera Austral". Will chat more about that later.
ps. Didn´t camp as expected due to the rain delay throwing off my intended destinations. Probably a blessing in disguise.
Link to CLEAR Photos....
OK, here is the solution for the time being with respect to "blurry photos". You can visit this public web page and view the photos through "Picasa". All photos are stored there and are NOT blurry.
www.picasaweb.google.com/darryl.mekechuk
hopefully, this will work and you can enjoy the views of the Patagonia a little better.
Saturday, December 8, 2007
Days 45 & 46, Bariloche to El Bolsón
Day 45. Rest & Chore Day
Got some parts changed out. New: tires, rear cassette, chain, brake pads.
Day 46. Bariloche to El Bolsón
Just to make sure everybody knows, I am in Argentina now. Now on the east side of Andes and heading south. Today, rode through the beautiful Lakes District of Bariloche. And yes it definitely rivals the beauty of our majestic Rockies. Just a lot more lakes around here! Big and blue.
It is very interesting to be on the east side of the Andes. It is quite noticeable that the winds can really whip up in a hurry.
Tot time 7 hrs 15 min, ride time 6 hrs, 124 km, elev gain 1340 m, elev loss1820 m
Coming Up.....
Will head south for about another 200 km then head back west into Chile over a pass called "Futaleaufú".
I will definitely be camping tomorrow night. The towns are quite sparse for the next few days and may not be "ideally located" with respect to maximizing distance. Therefore, I could be doing a LOT of camping in the next few days. Hoo-rah! I´m trying to get excited about being in dirty cycling gear for the next few agains.
PLEASE NOTE: In other words, will likely be out of contact for several days.
ps. Erik, that is funny, I bought a pair of those knee highs in Bariloche as well! However, I made a nice pair of "booties" with them.
pps. Ana, sí, consigo la receta para los empanadas Chilenos. Son bien ricos. Me gustan los de horno en vez de aceite. Hay que tener cuidado porque siembre hay una semilla grandote adentro (de la aceituna). He estado comiendo muchos cuando sea posible. Buean suerte con tus examanes. Qué disfrutes el tiempo en España.
Got some parts changed out. New: tires, rear cassette, chain, brake pads.
Day 46. Bariloche to El Bolsón
Just to make sure everybody knows, I am in Argentina now. Now on the east side of Andes and heading south. Today, rode through the beautiful Lakes District of Bariloche. And yes it definitely rivals the beauty of our majestic Rockies. Just a lot more lakes around here! Big and blue.
It is very interesting to be on the east side of the Andes. It is quite noticeable that the winds can really whip up in a hurry.
Tot time 7 hrs 15 min, ride time 6 hrs, 124 km, elev gain 1340 m, elev loss1820 m
Coming Up.....
Will head south for about another 200 km then head back west into Chile over a pass called "Futaleaufú".
I will definitely be camping tomorrow night. The towns are quite sparse for the next few days and may not be "ideally located" with respect to maximizing distance. Therefore, I could be doing a LOT of camping in the next few days. Hoo-rah! I´m trying to get excited about being in dirty cycling gear for the next few agains.
PLEASE NOTE: In other words, will likely be out of contact for several days.
ps. Erik, that is funny, I bought a pair of those knee highs in Bariloche as well! However, I made a nice pair of "booties" with them.
pps. Ana, sí, consigo la receta para los empanadas Chilenos. Son bien ricos. Me gustan los de horno en vez de aceite. Hay que tener cuidado porque siembre hay una semilla grandote adentro (de la aceituna). He estado comiendo muchos cuando sea posible. Buean suerte con tus examanes. Qué disfrutes el tiempo en España.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Days 42 to 44, San José to Bariloche! A Lot of STORIES...
Now, where did we leave off? My mind and legs are a little mushy and I have a bit of a runny nose. Please bear with me, I am going to tell the tale of the last 3 days of riding. There are a few tales to tell. No taddling though please.
Change of Route Again ...
Well, I was talking about heading to Puerto Montt and them taking a ferry directly South to the village of Chaitén which would be the start of the Carretera Austral (roughly translates to the "Far South Highway"). This would have meant about "chopping off" 200 km of riding due to the ferry. Well, instead of zigging, I decided to zag at the last minute and head east to Argentina such that I would ride the entire route. No "cheating" with a ferry ride.
Here´s the tale ...
Day 42 San Jose to El Crucero
Left the small village of San José on Dec 4 and everything was "OK" but ran into a stiff headwind and rain soI came up with the grand idea of "angling" away from the wind and taking a shortcut into Argentina via some "back roads". Well, this landed me in the teeny-tiny village of "El Crucero". And what else it landed me was a night shared with the a small family run restaurant-bar-pensión. An all-in-one affair. Spent the evening in the kitchen with the owner, who is a grand lady (however, I am speaking of size) and helper trying to understand some very strange Spanish (words like "sipo", ¨nopo¨) and of which I was at the receiving end of constant jests. I bolted my room very tight during the evening, I was constantly reminded at which room I could find the "grand lady". Now, "add in¨ an 85 year grandfather, about 6 cats, about 3 young kids and a host of drunken guest at the bar and that just about describes things.
tot time 7 hrs 2 min, ride time 6 hrs 11 min, 128 km, elev gain 680 m, elev loss 543 m.
Day 43 El Crucero to Villa La Angostura
The day started off with 36 km of gravel road due to my "brainchild" of taking the shortcut. I got one flat tire but was able to test the bike on gravel roads. In general, it performed well but max average speed is about 16 km-hr. Also, I put a lot of weight on my back (with a day pack) in order to reduce vibrations on rear pannier assembly.
OK, we´re just getting started, as I had to cross the Andes into Argentina which involved a lot of undulating terrain. When I finally reached the height of the pass at about 1340 m there was still plenty of snow at the top of the pass (starting elevation for the day was 110 m). I was greeted by rain and blustery winds on the descent. I bundled up well, winter gloves, jacket, windbreaker. Passed through the Argentian border without problems. Managed to smuggle in a small quantity of fine Chilean homemade cheese. Yummy! Finally got to the hostal about 11.5 hours after start. It was a long day.
tot time 11 hrs 42 min, ride time 8 hrs 36 min, 150 km, elev gain 2235 m, elev loss 1475 m.
Day 44 Villa La Angostura to Bariloche
Today was an easy day. Finally arrived at one of the main focal points of the trip. You can find it on the map (at the top of the blog). This area is called "The Lake District". It is part of the Patagonia. The city itself actually is not pretty but the surrounding area is very beautiful. It is similar to Banff but with huge, blue lakes smattered across the area.
tot time 4 hrs 28 min, ride time 3 hrs 52 min, 90 km, elev gain 925 m, elev loss, 950 m
FUNNY ANCEDOTE ... for those who haven´t nodded off ...
So, when I was in Pucón arranging the ascent up Lanín with the guide Rodrigo we had finished business or so I had thought and we were chatting. Anyways, he looks me straight in the eyes and says boldly, "do you use toilet paper?". Well, I began to feel somewhat uncomfortable, thinking, that I had a real problem with personal hygiene. I guess, well, I felt somewhat embarassed at the potential repercussions of what he was implying (or maybe that there was some "cultural thing" that I didn´t know about). My face was starting to turn a little bit red at this point ... trying to think up the appropriate answer. Anyways, he repeated the question, "do you use toilet paper?¨. At this point, I finally answered and said, "well yes" (thinking OF COURSE ... don´t you?). He replies, "well, we use snow." He was referring to the practice on the mountain. He further went into great detail about how this feat was accomplished. It´s one of those things that really does not need a diagram for instructions.
Upcoming ...
We'll be heading south through Argentina for about 200 km and then darting back into Chile through a pass called "Futaleufú". Will take me about 4 or 5 days to ride this section and will involve going through some gravel roads. Will definitely be test for the gear. I'll go through towns of: El Bolsón, Esquel, Futaleufú, Villa Sant a Lucia.
Note: Day 45 will be used to rest, shake this cold, and take care of some vital chores.
Much Colder than I Thought ...
As I travel South I am finding that it is much colder than expected. At times I am riding in winter gloves and three layers up top. Will try to fashion some "shoe covers" out of extra large socks. I have a feeling it is only going to get colder.
ps.
Erik, as you can see I will be riding through the towns that you mentioned. Also, nice to hear from everbody!! All messages are read and thoroughly enjoyed. Thank you.
pps.
Have purchased more disk space on Google. Hopefully future pics won´t be blurry.
Change of Route Again ...
Well, I was talking about heading to Puerto Montt and them taking a ferry directly South to the village of Chaitén which would be the start of the Carretera Austral (roughly translates to the "Far South Highway"). This would have meant about "chopping off" 200 km of riding due to the ferry. Well, instead of zigging, I decided to zag at the last minute and head east to Argentina such that I would ride the entire route. No "cheating" with a ferry ride.
Here´s the tale ...
Day 42 San Jose to El Crucero
Left the small village of San José on Dec 4 and everything was "OK" but ran into a stiff headwind and rain soI came up with the grand idea of "angling" away from the wind and taking a shortcut into Argentina via some "back roads". Well, this landed me in the teeny-tiny village of "El Crucero". And what else it landed me was a night shared with the a small family run restaurant-bar-pensión. An all-in-one affair. Spent the evening in the kitchen with the owner, who is a grand lady (however, I am speaking of size) and helper trying to understand some very strange Spanish (words like "sipo", ¨nopo¨) and of which I was at the receiving end of constant jests. I bolted my room very tight during the evening, I was constantly reminded at which room I could find the "grand lady". Now, "add in¨ an 85 year grandfather, about 6 cats, about 3 young kids and a host of drunken guest at the bar and that just about describes things.
tot time 7 hrs 2 min, ride time 6 hrs 11 min, 128 km, elev gain 680 m, elev loss 543 m.
Day 43 El Crucero to Villa La Angostura
The day started off with 36 km of gravel road due to my "brainchild" of taking the shortcut. I got one flat tire but was able to test the bike on gravel roads. In general, it performed well but max average speed is about 16 km-hr. Also, I put a lot of weight on my back (with a day pack) in order to reduce vibrations on rear pannier assembly.
OK, we´re just getting started, as I had to cross the Andes into Argentina which involved a lot of undulating terrain. When I finally reached the height of the pass at about 1340 m there was still plenty of snow at the top of the pass (starting elevation for the day was 110 m). I was greeted by rain and blustery winds on the descent. I bundled up well, winter gloves, jacket, windbreaker. Passed through the Argentian border without problems. Managed to smuggle in a small quantity of fine Chilean homemade cheese. Yummy! Finally got to the hostal about 11.5 hours after start. It was a long day.
tot time 11 hrs 42 min, ride time 8 hrs 36 min, 150 km, elev gain 2235 m, elev loss 1475 m.
Day 44 Villa La Angostura to Bariloche
Today was an easy day. Finally arrived at one of the main focal points of the trip. You can find it on the map (at the top of the blog). This area is called "The Lake District". It is part of the Patagonia. The city itself actually is not pretty but the surrounding area is very beautiful. It is similar to Banff but with huge, blue lakes smattered across the area.
tot time 4 hrs 28 min, ride time 3 hrs 52 min, 90 km, elev gain 925 m, elev loss, 950 m
FUNNY ANCEDOTE ... for those who haven´t nodded off ...
So, when I was in Pucón arranging the ascent up Lanín with the guide Rodrigo we had finished business or so I had thought and we were chatting. Anyways, he looks me straight in the eyes and says boldly, "do you use toilet paper?". Well, I began to feel somewhat uncomfortable, thinking, that I had a real problem with personal hygiene. I guess, well, I felt somewhat embarassed at the potential repercussions of what he was implying (or maybe that there was some "cultural thing" that I didn´t know about). My face was starting to turn a little bit red at this point ... trying to think up the appropriate answer. Anyways, he repeated the question, "do you use toilet paper?¨. At this point, I finally answered and said, "well yes" (thinking OF COURSE ... don´t you?). He replies, "well, we use snow." He was referring to the practice on the mountain. He further went into great detail about how this feat was accomplished. It´s one of those things that really does not need a diagram for instructions.
Upcoming ...
We'll be heading south through Argentina for about 200 km and then darting back into Chile through a pass called "Futaleufú". Will take me about 4 or 5 days to ride this section and will involve going through some gravel roads. Will definitely be test for the gear. I'll go through towns of: El Bolsón, Esquel, Futaleufú, Villa Sant a Lucia.
Note: Day 45 will be used to rest, shake this cold, and take care of some vital chores.
Much Colder than I Thought ...
As I travel South I am finding that it is much colder than expected. At times I am riding in winter gloves and three layers up top. Will try to fashion some "shoe covers" out of extra large socks. I have a feeling it is only going to get colder.
ps.
Erik, as you can see I will be riding through the towns that you mentioned. Also, nice to hear from everbody!! All messages are read and thoroughly enjoyed. Thank you.
pps.
Have purchased more disk space on Google. Hopefully future pics won´t be blurry.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Day 41, Pucón to San José de la Mariquina
OK, I was a little fatigued today but that was partly due to sharing a few celebratory brews with Rodrigo and Cristian (Guide & assistant) the day before. Hardly drank but enough to throw the engine off a little. As a result of everything I think I am catching a cold (ok, yes, now I would be whining. sorry).
Ride was uneventful with the exception of a "rain delay". First serious rain of the trip.
Am staying in a very old beautiful house which has a few nice rooms that they rent out to travellers. The pueblo is tiny.
Tot time 6 hrs 45 min, ride time 5 hrs 6 min, 109 km, elev gain 590 m, elev loss 811 m.
ps. It was pointed out that the photos are now turning out blurry. I am not sure why. I will try to figure this out.
pps. Am thinking of changing the route again. Might just go through Bariloche, Argentina ... will add a little extra jaunt through Argentina. Would add about 400 km. Still undecided.
Ride was uneventful with the exception of a "rain delay". First serious rain of the trip.
Am staying in a very old beautiful house which has a few nice rooms that they rent out to travellers. The pueblo is tiny.
Tot time 6 hrs 45 min, ride time 5 hrs 6 min, 109 km, elev gain 590 m, elev loss 811 m.
ps. It was pointed out that the photos are now turning out blurry. I am not sure why. I will try to figure this out.
pps. Am thinking of changing the route again. Might just go through Bariloche, Argentina ... will add a little extra jaunt through Argentina. Would add about 400 km. Still undecided.
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Days 39 & 40, Ascent of Lanin ... Made It!
Day 39 & 40 ... Ascent of Lanin
On the first day we hiked up 5 hours and encountered some pretty brisk winds at where the high camp normally would be, however, we descended a little and found a nice little "nook" in the rocks and made some comfy snow caves in the side of the little crag that we were in.
The next day we woke up at 4 am to a starry sky which meant clear skies. All went well. The view from the top of Lanin is amazing. It is the highest volcano in the region and the panorama view is quite spectacular. My very competent guide, Rodrigo, could name all of the prominant landmarks, mountains and volcanoes.
It was a very worthy trip. I am glad that I took time off the bike for this side trip. The company, Rumbo Sur, which I used provided awesome service and company for the trip.
Total time climbing over two days was 14 hours with about 2,500 m elev gain.
On the first day we hiked up 5 hours and encountered some pretty brisk winds at where the high camp normally would be, however, we descended a little and found a nice little "nook" in the rocks and made some comfy snow caves in the side of the little crag that we were in.
The next day we woke up at 4 am to a starry sky which meant clear skies. All went well. The view from the top of Lanin is amazing. It is the highest volcano in the region and the panorama view is quite spectacular. My very competent guide, Rodrigo, could name all of the prominant landmarks, mountains and volcanoes.
It was a very worthy trip. I am glad that I took time off the bike for this side trip. The company, Rumbo Sur, which I used provided awesome service and company for the trip.
Total time climbing over two days was 14 hours with about 2,500 m elev gain.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Day 38, Hike in Huerquehue Nat. Park
Went on a hike...
My goodness, Mother Nature really was inspired when she did this place up. Had a nice hike in the lush, green National Park of Huerquehue (yes, it´s a mouthful to say). Nice trails traverse up a forested (but with very distinct trees from what us Canucks are used to) to a series of Andean Lakes. Fun factor was at 11.
A little too much maybe...
I think I had the foot on the accelerator a little too much in the past few days. I have been suffering from a "stomach stitch" for the last couple of days. However, it appears to be recuperating. Has been nice to have a few extra hours to take of things like personal hygiene.
Off to Lanín...
Will be signing out for a few days as Rodrigo (my very experienced and accomplished Andean Guide) plus assistant Cristiano and myself make an attempt up Volcano Lanin.
...¡NEWS FLASH!...
Will now very likely be changing my route. Will go to Puerto Montt, take a ferry to Chaitén, then ride the infamous Carretera Austral (Austral Hwy). Will explain more about this later. Upon consulting with locals the roads are decent and the scenery will be unique and ... well, breathtaking. Am getting quite enthused about this recent turn of events.
ps. Sí Celia, tienes todo la razón, pero la bici no pudo ir anoche, en vez de las termas, la dejé todo el día hoy en el taller. Me dijo no fue lo mismo y estaba un poco mal geniado conmigo hoy. La próxima vez la prometí que vayamos juntos. Y sí, los Vascos estaban muy amables conmigo. Charlamos mucho. Van a estar montando la bici un año. !Vaya!
My goodness, Mother Nature really was inspired when she did this place up. Had a nice hike in the lush, green National Park of Huerquehue (yes, it´s a mouthful to say). Nice trails traverse up a forested (but with very distinct trees from what us Canucks are used to) to a series of Andean Lakes. Fun factor was at 11.
A little too much maybe...
I think I had the foot on the accelerator a little too much in the past few days. I have been suffering from a "stomach stitch" for the last couple of days. However, it appears to be recuperating. Has been nice to have a few extra hours to take of things like personal hygiene.
Off to Lanín...
Will be signing out for a few days as Rodrigo (my very experienced and accomplished Andean Guide) plus assistant Cristiano and myself make an attempt up Volcano Lanin.
...¡NEWS FLASH!...
Will now very likely be changing my route. Will go to Puerto Montt, take a ferry to Chaitén, then ride the infamous Carretera Austral (Austral Hwy). Will explain more about this later. Upon consulting with locals the roads are decent and the scenery will be unique and ... well, breathtaking. Am getting quite enthused about this recent turn of events.
ps. Sí Celia, tienes todo la razón, pero la bici no pudo ir anoche, en vez de las termas, la dejé todo el día hoy en el taller. Me dijo no fue lo mismo y estaba un poco mal geniado conmigo hoy. La próxima vez la prometí que vayamos juntos. Y sí, los Vascos estaban muy amables conmigo. Charlamos mucho. Van a estar montando la bici un año. !Vaya!
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Day 37, Temuco to Pucón
Am now in the beautiful resort village of Pucón (elev about 235 m) which is located precariously below the looming volanco, Villarica, and on the shore of lake Villarica. Was very nice to get off the Panamericana and to ride on a mucher quieter highway.
Am planning on making an attempt up Volcano Lanín, 3740 m. Will start the climb at about 1200 m and should take 2 days. The weather, unfortunately looks marginal .... but who knows, we´ll try. I´m used to retreating in the case of really bad weather.
I forget to mention that I surpassed 3000 km a few days ago. Am now at 3,579 km ...... I really don´t like to think about how much distance is remaining .... at least at this point because there is a LOT more to go.
Definitely, did not have the "zip" today. I think it was the accumulation of the last two tough days.
Met a couple of riders from Spain (actually, from the Basque region). They are on mountain bikes and have been doing a combination of "riding" and "busing" and have been going for about 3 months in South America. We shared some chit-chat and as gesture between fellow cyclists I offered up some of my precious trail mix which we ate as part of the ceremony when encountering other cyclists.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 58 min, 108 km, elev gain 692 m, elev loss 586 m.
ps. Will be heading for a late night dip at the Puzones Hot Springs. Bus leaves at 8 pm.
pps. Attempt of the volcano will start Dec 1.
Coming Up.....
Dec 3, if all goes well, will leave Pucón and will cross the border into Argentina. Will travel through the beautiful "Lake Region" of the Patagonia on my way to Bariloche. Should take about 3 or 4 days to get there. Will be a different "kettle of fish" because will have to test the iron horse on some gravel roads.
At Bariloche, I should be around 3900 or 4000 km .... with about another 2500 km to go.
And hey ....
Nice to hear from a few new people (Bill, Marcia) and some veterans (Rags) who is back with his always entertaining perspectives on ... well, everything.
Am planning on making an attempt up Volcano Lanín, 3740 m. Will start the climb at about 1200 m and should take 2 days. The weather, unfortunately looks marginal .... but who knows, we´ll try. I´m used to retreating in the case of really bad weather.
I forget to mention that I surpassed 3000 km a few days ago. Am now at 3,579 km ...... I really don´t like to think about how much distance is remaining .... at least at this point because there is a LOT more to go.
Definitely, did not have the "zip" today. I think it was the accumulation of the last two tough days.
Met a couple of riders from Spain (actually, from the Basque region). They are on mountain bikes and have been doing a combination of "riding" and "busing" and have been going for about 3 months in South America. We shared some chit-chat and as gesture between fellow cyclists I offered up some of my precious trail mix which we ate as part of the ceremony when encountering other cyclists.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 58 min, 108 km, elev gain 692 m, elev loss 586 m.
ps. Will be heading for a late night dip at the Puzones Hot Springs. Bus leaves at 8 pm.
pps. Attempt of the volcano will start Dec 1.
Coming Up.....
Dec 3, if all goes well, will leave Pucón and will cross the border into Argentina. Will travel through the beautiful "Lake Region" of the Patagonia on my way to Bariloche. Should take about 3 or 4 days to get there. Will be a different "kettle of fish" because will have to test the iron horse on some gravel roads.
At Bariloche, I should be around 3900 or 4000 km .... with about another 2500 km to go.
And hey ....
Nice to hear from a few new people (Bill, Marcia) and some veterans (Rags) who is back with his always entertaining perspectives on ... well, everything.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Days 35 & 36, Chillán to Mulchén to Temuco
Day 35, Chillán to Mulchén
Well, this was an absolutely grand day. The "free ride" was over with respect to tail winds. Oh well, easy come, easy go. The landscape has changed dramatically such that it now looks very similar to places in Alberta or B.C. Rolling hills, pine trees, open pastures. Stayed at the small village of Mulchén and finished off the day by joining the locals and swimming at the meandering Bureo River that passes close to town. By the end of the day it was at north of 25 deg C.
Tot time 7 hrs 37 min, ride time 6 hrs 34 min, 146 km, elevation gain 751 m, elevation loss 721 m.
Day 36, Mulchén to Temuco
Countryside still looks a lot like places close to home but today was overcast and grey most of the day. And Chile, I mean chilly. The lumber industry has taken over as the big industry as far as I can tell. Am about 660 km south of Santiago. The coastal range has long since gone and the Andes to the east are not nearly as daunting. Rivers now drain westerly to the Pacific which makes for a lot more "up and downs".
Tot time 6 hrs 50 min, ride time 6 hrs, 138 km, elevation gain 1,006 m, elevation loss 1,034 m
Coming Up....
Will be departing from my dear friend, the Panamericana Highway, tomorrow (Nov 29). Next destination is Pucón which is nestled in the height of the Andes and has beautiful national park which I will be doing some exploring on foot (yes, the bike sobbed when I broke the news but that is life). Again, will be making an attempt on Volcano Lanin in a few days.
ps. Nice to hear from everybody! Your messages are appreciated and always read.
pps. Sister Joy, don´t know if I will be doing the Birkie this time. Maybe I´ll just cheer you on. Please, I´ll need a little time to get my skiing legs going.
Well, this was an absolutely grand day. The "free ride" was over with respect to tail winds. Oh well, easy come, easy go. The landscape has changed dramatically such that it now looks very similar to places in Alberta or B.C. Rolling hills, pine trees, open pastures. Stayed at the small village of Mulchén and finished off the day by joining the locals and swimming at the meandering Bureo River that passes close to town. By the end of the day it was at north of 25 deg C.
Tot time 7 hrs 37 min, ride time 6 hrs 34 min, 146 km, elevation gain 751 m, elevation loss 721 m.
Day 36, Mulchén to Temuco
Countryside still looks a lot like places close to home but today was overcast and grey most of the day. And Chile, I mean chilly. The lumber industry has taken over as the big industry as far as I can tell. Am about 660 km south of Santiago. The coastal range has long since gone and the Andes to the east are not nearly as daunting. Rivers now drain westerly to the Pacific which makes for a lot more "up and downs".
Tot time 6 hrs 50 min, ride time 6 hrs, 138 km, elevation gain 1,006 m, elevation loss 1,034 m
Coming Up....
Will be departing from my dear friend, the Panamericana Highway, tomorrow (Nov 29). Next destination is Pucón which is nestled in the height of the Andes and has beautiful national park which I will be doing some exploring on foot (yes, the bike sobbed when I broke the news but that is life). Again, will be making an attempt on Volcano Lanin in a few days.
ps. Nice to hear from everybody! Your messages are appreciated and always read.
pps. Sister Joy, don´t know if I will be doing the Birkie this time. Maybe I´ll just cheer you on. Please, I´ll need a little time to get my skiing legs going.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Days 33 & 34, Curicó - Linares - Chillán
Day 33, Curicó to Linares
Tot time 4 hrs 56 min, ride time 4 hrs 20 min, 115 km, elev gain 290 m, elev loss 290 m.
Day 34, Linares to Chillán
Tot time 4 hrs 11 min, ride time 3 hrs 54 min, 105km, elev gain 205 m, elev loss 250 m.
Still chugg'in South on the Pan Am
Well, this portion of the trip is proving to be rather ... easy. Don´t get me wrong, I´m not complaining. I am following the Panamerica south, still in the large, fertile valley between the Andes and the Coastal range. All sorts of fruit and vegetables are grown here. The valley is quite flat and they winds have been very favorable.
I forgot to me mention, that obviously, the vegetation has changed. Northern Chile was very dry and barren of vegetation, it all started to change about 300 or 400 km north of Santiago. More and more trees and plants as you go south. It is interesting at one point I saw a palm tree in close proximity to pine trees.
A little bit about the weather ...
During the day there are highs around 25 to 30 degrees C. In the morning when I start, which is usually 7 am, it is around 6 to 8 deg C. I like riding when it is not hot. Very pleasant riding conditions in this part of Chile.
Coming Up ...
Next villages/towns I will be passing through are: Los Angeles (no, not California), Victoria (not B.C.) and Temuco. The next big decision is to do this next portion to Temuco in 3 days or 2 days. It is 270 km away. I am not sure if I want to "pace myself" or well, have a couple of long days and put a day in "my back pocket".
From Temuco, I plan to start to cross the Andes into Argentina. Along the way, I plan to stop in a place called Pucón, close to the Chile / Argentina border and attempt to climb another volcano (Lanín). Hopefully, the weather will cooperate. After that I wil be in Argentina for a few weeks at least.
Tot time 4 hrs 56 min, ride time 4 hrs 20 min, 115 km, elev gain 290 m, elev loss 290 m.
Day 34, Linares to Chillán
Tot time 4 hrs 11 min, ride time 3 hrs 54 min, 105km, elev gain 205 m, elev loss 250 m.
Still chugg'in South on the Pan Am
Well, this portion of the trip is proving to be rather ... easy. Don´t get me wrong, I´m not complaining. I am following the Panamerica south, still in the large, fertile valley between the Andes and the Coastal range. All sorts of fruit and vegetables are grown here. The valley is quite flat and they winds have been very favorable.
I forgot to me mention, that obviously, the vegetation has changed. Northern Chile was very dry and barren of vegetation, it all started to change about 300 or 400 km north of Santiago. More and more trees and plants as you go south. It is interesting at one point I saw a palm tree in close proximity to pine trees.
A little bit about the weather ...
During the day there are highs around 25 to 30 degrees C. In the morning when I start, which is usually 7 am, it is around 6 to 8 deg C. I like riding when it is not hot. Very pleasant riding conditions in this part of Chile.
Coming Up ...
Next villages/towns I will be passing through are: Los Angeles (no, not California), Victoria (not B.C.) and Temuco. The next big decision is to do this next portion to Temuco in 3 days or 2 days. It is 270 km away. I am not sure if I want to "pace myself" or well, have a couple of long days and put a day in "my back pocket".
From Temuco, I plan to start to cross the Andes into Argentina. Along the way, I plan to stop in a place called Pucón, close to the Chile / Argentina border and attempt to climb another volcano (Lanín). Hopefully, the weather will cooperate. After that I wil be in Argentina for a few weeks at least.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Day 32, Rancagua to Curicó
Well, I am continuing my way South down the Panamericana, Ruta 5. The highway is in a valley between the mighty Andes (to the East) and the smaller coastal range to the West. I am right in the heartland of the fine Chilean wine production. Although, there is a strong allure to take a few detours and to indulge is some wine tours, I have decided I might need these precious "extra days" in order to get through the harsh Southern Patagonia. In a nutshell, no getting drunk on equisite red Chilean wine .... (well, not just yet). Gotta stay sharp.
Tot time 4 hrs 47 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 110 km, elev gain 253 m, elev loss 546 m. Had a nice tailwind to help the cause. Was an easy day.
Tot time 4 hrs 47 min, ride time 4 hrs 2 min, 110 km, elev gain 253 m, elev loss 546 m. Had a nice tailwind to help the cause. Was an easy day.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Days 30 & 31, Santiago to Rancagua
Day 30, Site Seeing in Santiago
Took a "site seeing day" in Santiago and had the luxury personal tour guide, the very kind María, who is the cousin of Margarita and Yuri. Very spectular city. Lots of cool places to hang out if one wishes.
Day 31. Santiago to Rancagua
"The escape from Santiago" was not without stress and a little ad lib route finding as a good portion of the main thoroughfare (Panamericana) leaving Santiago is bike prohibited. On the plus side the route was very flat and shorter than both maps I had indicated.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 39 min, 92 km, elev gain 319 m, elev loss 361 m.
ps. Have been researching some of the extreme southern portions of the journey. Promises to present lot of fun (read "somewhat challenging"). Severe winds and bike rattling apart roads appear to be the primary obstacles. Gee, maybe I should just hang out in the Chilean wine valleys.
Took a "site seeing day" in Santiago and had the luxury personal tour guide, the very kind María, who is the cousin of Margarita and Yuri. Very spectular city. Lots of cool places to hang out if one wishes.
Day 31. Santiago to Rancagua
"The escape from Santiago" was not without stress and a little ad lib route finding as a good portion of the main thoroughfare (Panamericana) leaving Santiago is bike prohibited. On the plus side the route was very flat and shorter than both maps I had indicated.
Tot time 5 hrs 55 min, ride time 4 hrs 39 min, 92 km, elev gain 319 m, elev loss 361 m.
ps. Have been researching some of the extreme southern portions of the journey. Promises to present lot of fun (read "somewhat challenging"). Severe winds and bike rattling apart roads appear to be the primary obstacles. Gee, maybe I should just hang out in the Chilean wine valleys.
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Ride Stats, Valparaíso to Santiago
Tot time 6 hrs 15 min, ride time 5 hrs 28 min, 117 km, 1,365 m gain, 822 m loss.
Day 29, Valparaíso to Santiago ... Hustle and Bustle!
Well, I held my lane and the giant buses took pity on me and let me make my way to the hotel in the center of Santiago. The ride from Valparaíso to Santiago started out foggy and drizzling. First bit of rain that I have encountered.
By the way Bryan, in fact, there are two tunnels on highway 68 from Valpo to Santiago. The first tunnel (La Zapata) has a nice wide shoulder lane. The second tunnel (El Prado) has none. In fact, bicycles are prohibited (according to the sign). Well, they should have INDICATED that 20 km before where the other route goes. I wasn't about to turn back.
We talked (my bike and I). She said, "put on the flashing red light on the back and I´ll put the hammer down." I´m like, "OK, if you think you can do it." Anyways, we went for it. Made it. Rode really fast. Kind of like trying to sprint against Yuri. All was good.
Will take a day off here in Santiago and then continue south along the Panamericana.
By the way Bryan, in fact, there are two tunnels on highway 68 from Valpo to Santiago. The first tunnel (La Zapata) has a nice wide shoulder lane. The second tunnel (El Prado) has none. In fact, bicycles are prohibited (according to the sign). Well, they should have INDICATED that 20 km before where the other route goes. I wasn't about to turn back.
We talked (my bike and I). She said, "put on the flashing red light on the back and I´ll put the hammer down." I´m like, "OK, if you think you can do it." Anyways, we went for it. Made it. Rode really fast. Kind of like trying to sprint against Yuri. All was good.
Will take a day off here in Santiago and then continue south along the Panamericana.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Days 27 & 28, Los Vilos-Papudo-Valparaíso
Day 27, Los Vilos to Papudo ... MAJOR MECHANICAL
Total time 6 hrs, 8 min. ride time 4 hrs 29 min. 86 km, 1,023 m elev gain, 1,004 m elev loss.
Well, all was going very well, it was a nice easy day (as planned) after the gruel-fest the day before. Everything was peachy but just as I was arriving into Papudo my bike suffered a mechanical failure on one of the rear eyelets.
I´ll explain.
These eyelets are welded to the frame of the bike and used to hold the panniers on. ABSOLUTELY critical (go figure).
Kkkkkkrrrrrr. That is the sound of the pannier rack without support grinding againstthe rear cassette.
Not good.
Anyways, to make a long story semi-short, I found a hotel in Papudo, unloaded my gear and then cycled to the nearest town with a welder (La Ligua) about 25 km away. One good welder, good with old-fashioned South American ingenuity, to weld back the eyelet onto the frame.
More details on this potentially "trip ending" breakdown.
I actually believe it will be OK. There are two sets of rear eyelets. If it fails again, and no welder is close by, I can "switch" to a different set of eyelets.
Also, I believe the major cause of the failure is "laying" the bike on its side. It causes excess stress on the eyelet. In the future, I will always try to lean the bike against something.
Also, in Santiago, I will try to get the eyelets re-inforced.
Day 28, Papudo to Valparaíso
First the good news. The repair held! At least for one day. Which is a small victory.
Total time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 28 min, 93 km, elev gain 790 m, elev loss 840 m.
Well, this was the sweetest ride to date! Beautiful coastlines, passed through quaint seaside villages and then got to ride through Viña del Mar (very "happening" Chilean coastal city. Final destination is the wild city of Valparaíso (or Valpo as the locals call it). The city is on the coast but also is built up along steep and high embankments leading to the interior. Had a nice tail wind to boot!
ps. On to Santiago tomorrow (Nov 21). Will take a day off to have a little TLC done on my bike.
Total time 6 hrs, 8 min. ride time 4 hrs 29 min. 86 km, 1,023 m elev gain, 1,004 m elev loss.
Well, all was going very well, it was a nice easy day (as planned) after the gruel-fest the day before. Everything was peachy but just as I was arriving into Papudo my bike suffered a mechanical failure on one of the rear eyelets.
I´ll explain.
These eyelets are welded to the frame of the bike and used to hold the panniers on. ABSOLUTELY critical (go figure).
Kkkkkkrrrrrr. That is the sound of the pannier rack without support grinding againstthe rear cassette.
Not good.
Anyways, to make a long story semi-short, I found a hotel in Papudo, unloaded my gear and then cycled to the nearest town with a welder (La Ligua) about 25 km away. One good welder, good with old-fashioned South American ingenuity, to weld back the eyelet onto the frame.
More details on this potentially "trip ending" breakdown.
I actually believe it will be OK. There are two sets of rear eyelets. If it fails again, and no welder is close by, I can "switch" to a different set of eyelets.
Also, I believe the major cause of the failure is "laying" the bike on its side. It causes excess stress on the eyelet. In the future, I will always try to lean the bike against something.
Also, in Santiago, I will try to get the eyelets re-inforced.
Day 28, Papudo to Valparaíso
First the good news. The repair held! At least for one day. Which is a small victory.
Total time 5 hrs 45 min, ride time 4 hrs 28 min, 93 km, elev gain 790 m, elev loss 840 m.
Well, this was the sweetest ride to date! Beautiful coastlines, passed through quaint seaside villages and then got to ride through Viña del Mar (very "happening" Chilean coastal city. Final destination is the wild city of Valparaíso (or Valpo as the locals call it). The city is on the coast but also is built up along steep and high embankments leading to the interior. Had a nice tail wind to boot!
ps. On to Santiago tomorrow (Nov 21). Will take a day off to have a little TLC done on my bike.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Days 25 & 26, La Serena-Termas de Socos-Los Vilos
Day 25, La Serena - Termas de Socos
Total time 5 hrs 30 min, ride time 5 hrs, 104 km, elevation gain 963 m, elevation loss 911 m.
Well, the big motivation here was to enjoy the highly touted thermal baths of this ideally situated (for my journey) resort/spa hotel. As it turns out when I arrived, much to my dismay, the pool was drained and being painted. I did manage to go for a splash in the "camping village´s" cold pool. Followed by a hot shower.
I did get to watch some cable TV (Tennis Master´s Cup Tournament).
Day 26, Termas de Socos to Los Vilos
Total time 10 hrs 25 min, ride time 8 hrs 43 min, 152 km, 2,322 m elevation gain, 2,390 m elevation loss.
OK, in a nutshell, I took a serious spanking today! Pppppppphhhhhhhhh. That was the sound of a big bad Chilean headwind blasting at me all day. Also, please don´t let anybody tell you that riding all the coast is nice and flat. Today was a record day in elevation gain. To add insult to injury I flatted with about 15 km to go. With that said, I ate about half a dozen peanut butter, cheese and marmalade bunwiches which seemed to stave of the feared "bonk". All is good!
A few questions were asked ... and comments to friends ...
No, I don´t listen to any tunes. No iPod. I do not wish to admit which Cyndi Lauper songs go through my head though. I try to think about pertinent "Survivor Man" episodes that might help me ... on the serious side, I like to have a sense of the traffic around me ... just in case.
Ana, congratulations, on your upcoming graduation!! Beauty and brains a very good combination!!
Bryan, thanks for "polishing up" the blog.
Thanks for all of your messages! Very much appreciated.
ps: If all goes well, I should be in Santiago in another 3 days. Arriving on or about Nov 21.
pps: Does anybody know of a high end bike shop in Santiago? Might have to do some minor tweaks and change out a few parts.
Total time 5 hrs 30 min, ride time 5 hrs, 104 km, elevation gain 963 m, elevation loss 911 m.
Well, the big motivation here was to enjoy the highly touted thermal baths of this ideally situated (for my journey) resort/spa hotel. As it turns out when I arrived, much to my dismay, the pool was drained and being painted. I did manage to go for a splash in the "camping village´s" cold pool. Followed by a hot shower.
I did get to watch some cable TV (Tennis Master´s Cup Tournament).
Day 26, Termas de Socos to Los Vilos
Total time 10 hrs 25 min, ride time 8 hrs 43 min, 152 km, 2,322 m elevation gain, 2,390 m elevation loss.
OK, in a nutshell, I took a serious spanking today! Pppppppphhhhhhhhh. That was the sound of a big bad Chilean headwind blasting at me all day. Also, please don´t let anybody tell you that riding all the coast is nice and flat. Today was a record day in elevation gain. To add insult to injury I flatted with about 15 km to go. With that said, I ate about half a dozen peanut butter, cheese and marmalade bunwiches which seemed to stave of the feared "bonk". All is good!
A few questions were asked ... and comments to friends ...
No, I don´t listen to any tunes. No iPod. I do not wish to admit which Cyndi Lauper songs go through my head though. I try to think about pertinent "Survivor Man" episodes that might help me ... on the serious side, I like to have a sense of the traffic around me ... just in case.
Ana, congratulations, on your upcoming graduation!! Beauty and brains a very good combination!!
Bryan, thanks for "polishing up" the blog.
Thanks for all of your messages! Very much appreciated.
ps: If all goes well, I should be in Santiago in another 3 days. Arriving on or about Nov 21.
pps: Does anybody know of a high end bike shop in Santiago? Might have to do some minor tweaks and change out a few parts.
Friday, November 16, 2007
Day 24, Sight Seeing in La Serena
Hello Dear Friends & Family, have been wandering the streets of the lovely city of La Serena. Lots of nice plazas and cafés to explore. No visiting of museums though!
About the Earthquake ...
There was an earthquake on Nov 14th in Chile. The city most impacted was Tocapillo in which about 1,400 homes were destroyed. As far as I know there were unfortunately several fatalities as well, however, it was under 10 (again, as far as I know). It could have been much, much worse as the quake reached about 7.1 (or so).
At the time, I was about 750 to 800 km away, to the south - probably riding my bike. I never felt a thing. I had passed through Tocapillo some 8 days prior.
More about Future Kilometers Ahead ...
Good news and bad news.
After studying the map in detail, I realized that the total distance required will likely be about 6,400 km .... eeeesh!
The good news is that after doing some calculations and taking into account rest days and days reserved for exploring the Patagonia I need to cover about 105 km/day (just "riding days"). So far, I have been averaging about 115 km/day (when riding). It´s possible that I can do it BUT ... the bottom line is that I cannot afford to doddle.
Thank goodness I got off to a good start otherwise I think I would have been facing a daunting task.
About the Earthquake ...
There was an earthquake on Nov 14th in Chile. The city most impacted was Tocapillo in which about 1,400 homes were destroyed. As far as I know there were unfortunately several fatalities as well, however, it was under 10 (again, as far as I know). It could have been much, much worse as the quake reached about 7.1 (or so).
At the time, I was about 750 to 800 km away, to the south - probably riding my bike. I never felt a thing. I had passed through Tocapillo some 8 days prior.
More about Future Kilometers Ahead ...
Good news and bad news.
After studying the map in detail, I realized that the total distance required will likely be about 6,400 km .... eeeesh!
The good news is that after doing some calculations and taking into account rest days and days reserved for exploring the Patagonia I need to cover about 105 km/day (just "riding days"). So far, I have been averaging about 115 km/day (when riding). It´s possible that I can do it BUT ... the bottom line is that I cannot afford to doddle.
Thank goodness I got off to a good start otherwise I think I would have been facing a daunting task.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Just About the Stats ...
Well, I put another 1,000 km behind me, the odometer now reads 2,186 km. As of Nov 16 I will have averaged about 91.1 km/day which includes all rest days, mountain climbing days, etc. This is above my necessary target of about 68 km/day.
Total elevation gain so far has been about 20,000 m. Much more climbing than I expected, however, I don't mind the odd hill. It`s the headwinds that slow things down much more.
However, I cannot rest on my laurels (spelling?) as I may run into some very tough headwinds in the Patagonia that could bring my progress to a standstill. Don´t really know.
In general, I have been starting riding anywhere between 7:00 to 7:30 am. The big benefits are: taking advantage of the daylight, less winds early in the morning, less traffic, less time in the heat of the day, gives me time to wash clothes and let them dry out before the sun sets.
... All is well! Thank you for all of you comments and e-mails!!! Much appreciated!
Total elevation gain so far has been about 20,000 m. Much more climbing than I expected, however, I don't mind the odd hill. It`s the headwinds that slow things down much more.
However, I cannot rest on my laurels (spelling?) as I may run into some very tough headwinds in the Patagonia that could bring my progress to a standstill. Don´t really know.
In general, I have been starting riding anywhere between 7:00 to 7:30 am. The big benefits are: taking advantage of the daylight, less winds early in the morning, less traffic, less time in the heat of the day, gives me time to wash clothes and let them dry out before the sun sets.
... All is well! Thank you for all of you comments and e-mails!!! Much appreciated!
Days 20 to 23, Copiapó to La Serena
Day 20, Copiapó - Rest Day
Well, I did a little sightseeing around the city and did a little bike maintance. Rotated the tires, repaired a leaking tube and gave the drive train a good cleaning. OK, I watched a little Nat Geo as well (that and Discovery Channel seem to be my television of choice).
Day 21, Copiapó to Vallenar
OK, truth be told, it seems that I had over-indulged in a little bit of cerveza and local rum the night before. Seems that I got carried away a little. I guess I forgot that the next day was a "work day". I woke up and definitely was looking for some excuse not to ride.
My bike took one look at me and said, "forget it dude, you gotta ride, can´t leave me in the hotel all night and not expect me to ride the next day". I retorted, ¨come on, how strange would it look bringing a bike to the local pub ... pleeeeease!". The discussion went back and forth and 3 hours later than usual we left for the ride.
As it turned out we put some some serious asphalt behind us.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 46 min, 148 km, elev gain 1,290 m, elev loss 1,250 m.
Day 23, Vallenar to Incahuasi
Total time 5 hrs 48 min, ride time 5 hrs, 93 km, 1,460 m elev gain, 1,050 m elev loss.
Had to buck some bristling head winds plus there was a fair share of climbing. The small village of Incahausi nestled in the Chilean Coastal range was a pretty sight after a hard days riding.
There are really no formal accomodations just "pensiones" which are houses that have an extra room or two. Sometimes they are available and sometimes they are not. I was directed to the casa of Señora Nancy, I asked if there was accomodation available, she paused a few seconds, her stone-faced expression gave me no indication but the words, "Sí, señor" were music to my ears. Yahoo! No camping tonight among the sagebrush.
Just for the record, the accomodations were more than good and a few extra bonuses included a great chicken dinner and two freshly made empanadas that I took on the road.
Day 24, Incahuasi to La Serena
Total time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 25 min, 99km, 1,060m elev gain, 1,840m elev loss.
After a good night's sleep I was back in my normal routine. Was on my bike by 7 am. I enjoy starting early. However, this time, my early rising was my demise. After riding about 9 or 10 km of which was a pure descent I ran into a thick fog bank that the locals call "la camachaca". I rode as far as I could and "checked it out". After discovering that indeed it was pea soup, I quickly turned around and hustled back to a posada close to Incahuasi where I waited a couple of hours until the hot morning sun burned it off.
The rest of the day went well and now I am La Serena only about 5 days riding from Santiago!
ps. Will likely enjoy some of the sites in and around the city of La Serena tomorrow (Nov 16).
Well, I did a little sightseeing around the city and did a little bike maintance. Rotated the tires, repaired a leaking tube and gave the drive train a good cleaning. OK, I watched a little Nat Geo as well (that and Discovery Channel seem to be my television of choice).
Day 21, Copiapó to Vallenar
OK, truth be told, it seems that I had over-indulged in a little bit of cerveza and local rum the night before. Seems that I got carried away a little. I guess I forgot that the next day was a "work day". I woke up and definitely was looking for some excuse not to ride.
My bike took one look at me and said, "forget it dude, you gotta ride, can´t leave me in the hotel all night and not expect me to ride the next day". I retorted, ¨come on, how strange would it look bringing a bike to the local pub ... pleeeeease!". The discussion went back and forth and 3 hours later than usual we left for the ride.
As it turned out we put some some serious asphalt behind us.
Total time 7 hrs 30 min, ride time 6 hrs 46 min, 148 km, elev gain 1,290 m, elev loss 1,250 m.
Day 23, Vallenar to Incahuasi
Total time 5 hrs 48 min, ride time 5 hrs, 93 km, 1,460 m elev gain, 1,050 m elev loss.
Had to buck some bristling head winds plus there was a fair share of climbing. The small village of Incahausi nestled in the Chilean Coastal range was a pretty sight after a hard days riding.
There are really no formal accomodations just "pensiones" which are houses that have an extra room or two. Sometimes they are available and sometimes they are not. I was directed to the casa of Señora Nancy, I asked if there was accomodation available, she paused a few seconds, her stone-faced expression gave me no indication but the words, "Sí, señor" were music to my ears. Yahoo! No camping tonight among the sagebrush.
Just for the record, the accomodations were more than good and a few extra bonuses included a great chicken dinner and two freshly made empanadas that I took on the road.
Day 24, Incahuasi to La Serena
Total time 5 hrs 10 min, ride time 4 hrs 25 min, 99km, 1,060m elev gain, 1,840m elev loss.
After a good night's sleep I was back in my normal routine. Was on my bike by 7 am. I enjoy starting early. However, this time, my early rising was my demise. After riding about 9 or 10 km of which was a pure descent I ran into a thick fog bank that the locals call "la camachaca". I rode as far as I could and "checked it out". After discovering that indeed it was pea soup, I quickly turned around and hustled back to a posada close to Incahuasi where I waited a couple of hours until the hot morning sun burned it off.
The rest of the day went well and now I am La Serena only about 5 days riding from Santiago!
ps. Will likely enjoy some of the sites in and around the city of La Serena tomorrow (Nov 16).
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Days 16 to 19, Crossed the Atacama Desert!
Day 16, Antofagasta to Somewhere in the Middle of the Atacama Desert (actually the place had a name "Los Vientos" - which means The Winds). OK, this a tale I would like to tell. My strategy was to bolt as deep into the desert on this initial day as possible. I had studied the map intimately and I had thought I knew the geography rather well. As it turned out the first "posada" (small store) at km 63 had been abandoned several months ago. Woops. Should have talked to a few truck drivers before I left. I soldiered on. Just a little low on water that´s all. At about km 100 ran across "Posada Rosario" which was a true oasis and saved my dehydrated skin.
After re-fuelling at Posada Rosario I continued to bike deep into the heart of the desert. I was planning on calling it a day around km 130 or so but I caught a nice tail wind! Hoo-haw!! Rode that wind for about another 50 km of so.
The final stats for the day were a record day ..... total distance 183 km, total time 10 hrs 36 min, ride time 8 hrs 35 min, elevation gain 2,315 m, elevation loss 400 m.
What I never expected was to be camping at close to 2000 m. The wind really whipped up and I constructed a small wind break out of rocks in order to help keep the tent standing. Was a little low on water. Had to ration the remaining water carefully. No urine drinking though!
Day 17, "Middle of the Atacama Desert" to Posada Bahía Taltal
Total time 5 hrs 50 min, ride time 4 hrs, distance 104 km, elev gain 480 m, elev loss 1,670 m. By the end of this day I was out of the worst of the desert. I used the rest of this day to clean my bike, clothes and body. It took a while.
I forgot to mention that one of my favorite "passtimes" is to open pop bottles after they have been shaken up after rattling in my bike all day. Makes for a mess. Sometimes they leak out inside my panniers. Super fun!
Day 18, Posada Bahía Taltal to Playa Flamenco
Total time 9 hrs 30 min, ride time 7 hrs 36 min, distance 151 km, elev gain 1,270 m, elev loss 2,040m. I wanted to put in a big day in order to try to make it to Copiapó the following day. Had a great beach side spot to camp but didn´t have the energy or courage to bathe in the ocean. Hmmmm, come to think of it I didn´t bathe at all.
About three quarters of the way through the day I "dropped down" into the Chilean coastline.
Day 19, Playa Flamenco to Copiapó
Total time 7 hrs 23min, ride time 5 hrs 56 min, distance 134km, elev gain 1,110 m, elev loss 750m. A long ride as far as distance goes but I was helped by a nice tail wind for about half of the day. Got a pinch flat (hit a small stone pretty hard) with only 18 km to go! Only the third flat so far. Front tire this time.
And now ... a REST DAY. The gas tank is a little low and my motivation level is somewhere between "teeny tiny" and "zilch".
Footnote:
The city of Copiapó has about 160,000 habitants, is about 50 km inland, and has a nice main plaza.
After re-fuelling at Posada Rosario I continued to bike deep into the heart of the desert. I was planning on calling it a day around km 130 or so but I caught a nice tail wind! Hoo-haw!! Rode that wind for about another 50 km of so.
The final stats for the day were a record day ..... total distance 183 km, total time 10 hrs 36 min, ride time 8 hrs 35 min, elevation gain 2,315 m, elevation loss 400 m.
What I never expected was to be camping at close to 2000 m. The wind really whipped up and I constructed a small wind break out of rocks in order to help keep the tent standing. Was a little low on water. Had to ration the remaining water carefully. No urine drinking though!
Day 17, "Middle of the Atacama Desert" to Posada Bahía Taltal
Total time 5 hrs 50 min, ride time 4 hrs, distance 104 km, elev gain 480 m, elev loss 1,670 m. By the end of this day I was out of the worst of the desert. I used the rest of this day to clean my bike, clothes and body. It took a while.
I forgot to mention that one of my favorite "passtimes" is to open pop bottles after they have been shaken up after rattling in my bike all day. Makes for a mess. Sometimes they leak out inside my panniers. Super fun!
Day 18, Posada Bahía Taltal to Playa Flamenco
Total time 9 hrs 30 min, ride time 7 hrs 36 min, distance 151 km, elev gain 1,270 m, elev loss 2,040m. I wanted to put in a big day in order to try to make it to Copiapó the following day. Had a great beach side spot to camp but didn´t have the energy or courage to bathe in the ocean. Hmmmm, come to think of it I didn´t bathe at all.
About three quarters of the way through the day I "dropped down" into the Chilean coastline.
Day 19, Playa Flamenco to Copiapó
Total time 7 hrs 23min, ride time 5 hrs 56 min, distance 134km, elev gain 1,110 m, elev loss 750m. A long ride as far as distance goes but I was helped by a nice tail wind for about half of the day. Got a pinch flat (hit a small stone pretty hard) with only 18 km to go! Only the third flat so far. Front tire this time.
And now ... a REST DAY. The gas tank is a little low and my motivation level is somewhere between "teeny tiny" and "zilch".
Footnote:
The city of Copiapó has about 160,000 habitants, is about 50 km inland, and has a nice main plaza.
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
Days 14 & 15 Tocopilla - Hornitos - Antofagasta
Day 14, Tocopilla to Hornitos5.5 hrs total time, 5 hrs 10 min riding, 106 km, 1,100 m gain, 1,100 m loss. More easy riding along the Chilean Coast. Got to use my trust tent again. This time I put the fly on the right way. Definitely the nicest beach spot I have seen so far. Found a relatively secluded spot and pitched my tent. Had to eat from the panniers as there were NO restaurants in the area. I did manage to by 3 liters of Coke (the sugary, carbonated drink) which was vital to ensuring I didn´t shrivel away to dust.
Day 15, Hornitos to Antofagasta
3 hrs 55 min total time, 3 hrs 45 min riding, 86 km, 530 m gain, 540 m loss. You´ve heard it before ... more very pleasant (and easy) riding along the coast. The most difficult part of the day was finding a hotel. At about the sixth hotel I finally was able to get a room. OK, I don´t know if it was the two or three days without bathing or whether or there was not room. For the record, I did take a shower today.
THE PARTY IS OVER ... after 4 of the easiest days riding along the coast it is time to go back inland to the Atacama Desert. I have recuperated my energy and feel I am up to the challenge (famous last words?). I plan to wake up bright and early and take the desert by surprise. Lightning fast, like General Romel. OK, please don´t mention that he was eventually soundly defeated. I will try to be serious for a fleeting moment.
This next portion is EXTREMELY inhabitated. I have studied the map and believe that there are 3 key "posadas" (locations in which there is a tiny outpost comprising of a store / restaurant and a hut or two). We´ll see. I will load up my panniers for enough food for 2 days and enough water for 1 day. Therefore, those stores better exist or I´ll be flagging down truckers (asking for H2O).
SIGNING OUT FOR A WHILE ... the next major city I will arrive to is Copiapó, which is about 590 km from here. 3 days will be spent crossing the desert and another 2 or 3 days along sparsely populated coastline. Wish me luck comrades!
ps. Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn this morning. I´m an Aries. I don´t know if I messed anything up.
3 hrs 55 min total time, 3 hrs 45 min riding, 86 km, 530 m gain, 540 m loss. You´ve heard it before ... more very pleasant (and easy) riding along the coast. The most difficult part of the day was finding a hotel. At about the sixth hotel I finally was able to get a room. OK, I don´t know if it was the two or three days without bathing or whether or there was not room. For the record, I did take a shower today.
THE PARTY IS OVER ... after 4 of the easiest days riding along the coast it is time to go back inland to the Atacama Desert. I have recuperated my energy and feel I am up to the challenge (famous last words?). I plan to wake up bright and early and take the desert by surprise. Lightning fast, like General Romel. OK, please don´t mention that he was eventually soundly defeated. I will try to be serious for a fleeting moment.
This next portion is EXTREMELY inhabitated. I have studied the map and believe that there are 3 key "posadas" (locations in which there is a tiny outpost comprising of a store / restaurant and a hut or two). We´ll see. I will load up my panniers for enough food for 2 days and enough water for 1 day. Therefore, those stores better exist or I´ll be flagging down truckers (asking for H2O).
SIGNING OUT FOR A WHILE ... the next major city I will arrive to is Copiapó, which is about 590 km from here. 3 days will be spent crossing the desert and another 2 or 3 days along sparsely populated coastline. Wish me luck comrades!
ps. Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn this morning. I´m an Aries. I don´t know if I messed anything up.
Monday, November 5, 2007
Days 9 to 13, Deserts and Oceans
First the stats ...
Arica to Tocopilla (my present 10-20 ... location for you non CB buffs).
Distance 535 km, 31 hrs total time, 27 hrs riding time, 5,730 m elevation gain, 5,730 elevation loss. Both start and end locations are on the coast.
Here are the highlights ... I got my mojo back! My tummy was a little upset after a meal before arriving in Arica. I think that was part of the problem. The other thing is that my body has been acclimatized to high altitude. Now I feel a little `super charged´due to the lower elevation. It will wear off though quickly. Favorable winds have helped the last couple of days.
Days 9 and 10 were tough, tough, tough. Had to ascend up to the desert and then mother nature put great big gorges in the way. Had to drop all the way back down to practically sea level (from a high of about 1,300 m). Had to do that a few times on days 9 and 10. I though the desert was flat. Not always ... apparently. Fortunately, I was warned prior to entering.
Met a biking couple from France, Veronique and Jean Claude. They are on mountain bikes and looking for more of the back roads (and using bus or truck transport to cover distances when necessary). Very interesting, Veronique posted notices in France to find a riding partner.
DESERT STORM ... on Day 9 the final descent into Cuya was crazy wild. There was a tremendous updraft from the valley bottom. Could barely pedal against it. It was tough to keep the bike upright. Fasten you seatbelts folks its a bump ride. Put my bandana over my face along with my wrap-around glasses (formed a good shield against pelting grains of sand). Any stronger gusts and I would have had to hunker down for a while.
Day 10 was great. Favorable cross winds. Felt great. Was a long day but I felt good. That is when my mojo came back.
Day 11 was a tough day. I got wore out near the end of the day. Wind and pavement won the battle that day ... but I´ll be back. The winds were predominately from the west. I had to ¨turn¨west from the desert towards the coast. Hence headwinds. Part of the game with biking.
Day 12 and 13 have been entirely riding along the coast which has provided me time to recuperate my energy. Favorable winds and sea level riding has been a great break. Got my tent out last night for the first time. Worked great! Except I shouldn´t have had that cup of coffee before bed time. I was a little nervous about the local marauding dogs in the area. They came by for one visit and then left me in peace.
Hope to download a few photos.
By the way ... here is my traveling e-mail address for those who wish not to post.
darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
ps. I broke the 1,000 km mark today. Currently at about 1,060 km.
pps. Again, very nice to hear from everybody!
Arica to Tocopilla (my present 10-20 ... location for you non CB buffs).
Distance 535 km, 31 hrs total time, 27 hrs riding time, 5,730 m elevation gain, 5,730 elevation loss. Both start and end locations are on the coast.
Here are the highlights ... I got my mojo back! My tummy was a little upset after a meal before arriving in Arica. I think that was part of the problem. The other thing is that my body has been acclimatized to high altitude. Now I feel a little `super charged´due to the lower elevation. It will wear off though quickly. Favorable winds have helped the last couple of days.
Days 9 and 10 were tough, tough, tough. Had to ascend up to the desert and then mother nature put great big gorges in the way. Had to drop all the way back down to practically sea level (from a high of about 1,300 m). Had to do that a few times on days 9 and 10. I though the desert was flat. Not always ... apparently. Fortunately, I was warned prior to entering.
Met a biking couple from France, Veronique and Jean Claude. They are on mountain bikes and looking for more of the back roads (and using bus or truck transport to cover distances when necessary). Very interesting, Veronique posted notices in France to find a riding partner.
DESERT STORM ... on Day 9 the final descent into Cuya was crazy wild. There was a tremendous updraft from the valley bottom. Could barely pedal against it. It was tough to keep the bike upright. Fasten you seatbelts folks its a bump ride. Put my bandana over my face along with my wrap-around glasses (formed a good shield against pelting grains of sand). Any stronger gusts and I would have had to hunker down for a while.
Day 10 was great. Favorable cross winds. Felt great. Was a long day but I felt good. That is when my mojo came back.
Day 11 was a tough day. I got wore out near the end of the day. Wind and pavement won the battle that day ... but I´ll be back. The winds were predominately from the west. I had to ¨turn¨west from the desert towards the coast. Hence headwinds. Part of the game with biking.
Day 12 and 13 have been entirely riding along the coast which has provided me time to recuperate my energy. Favorable winds and sea level riding has been a great break. Got my tent out last night for the first time. Worked great! Except I shouldn´t have had that cup of coffee before bed time. I was a little nervous about the local marauding dogs in the area. They came by for one visit and then left me in peace.
Hope to download a few photos.
By the way ... here is my traveling e-mail address for those who wish not to post.
darryl_mekechuk@hotmail.com
ps. I broke the 1,000 km mark today. Currently at about 1,060 km.
pps. Again, very nice to hear from everybody!
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Just to Answer a Few Questions ...
Hi Julie,
When I slept 5,600 m in the "high camp" I was only mildly uncomfortable. I think that the 3 days of hard riding at high altitude helped immensely.
Joy,
Yes, I was warm enough. I definitely used all of th "warm clothes" that I had. I did have to use additional clothes from the guide company ("Colibri"). I rented a heavy duty sleeping bag, and a thick gortex jacket, not to mention the standard climbing gear. Colibri is a type of hummingbird by the way.
Rags,
Yeah, enter me in the TR ... if and only if the payment isn´t due until the Spring. I don´t have a partner though. If payment is due before I get back forget it.
Jorge,
I have a contact in Santiago through a couple that I am good friends with (Yuri and Margarita). Their cousin lives in Santiago. She will receive the tarjeta de debito. She will be in the city for the next several weeks. Let´s stay in touch! Gracias de todas maneras.
When I slept 5,600 m in the "high camp" I was only mildly uncomfortable. I think that the 3 days of hard riding at high altitude helped immensely.
Joy,
Yes, I was warm enough. I definitely used all of th "warm clothes" that I had. I did have to use additional clothes from the guide company ("Colibri"). I rented a heavy duty sleeping bag, and a thick gortex jacket, not to mention the standard climbing gear. Colibri is a type of hummingbird by the way.
Rags,
Yeah, enter me in the TR ... if and only if the payment isn´t due until the Spring. I don´t have a partner though. If payment is due before I get back forget it.
Jorge,
I have a contact in Santiago through a couple that I am good friends with (Yuri and Margarita). Their cousin lives in Santiago. She will receive the tarjeta de debito. She will be in the city for the next several weeks. Let´s stay in touch! Gracias de todas maneras.
Day 8, In Arica, Chile
First off the bike stats ... 6.5 hrs total time, 5.25 hrs ride time, 142 km, 810 m elevation gain AND 4,240 m elevation loss. I have completely descended from the Andes and am now in the most Northern city in Chile which is at sea level.
What a change. It was absolutely fun to descend 4.2 vertical kilometers. However, I am quite exhausted.
Interestingly enough today was the first day that it was warm enough to completely ditch my leg and arm warmers, and gloves.
My energy level is a little down. Hopefully, tomorrow I will wake up with my mojo rejuvenated.
Tomorrow is the start of another big challenge - crossing the Northern Chile which is a desert in every nature of the word. I will have to carry enough food and water for the entire day. The objective is to reach the tiny "outpost" of Cuya, about 109 km from Arica. I will then fill my panniers again with pop, bottled water and a few snacks. I will most likely be pitching my tent somewhere in the sand. Wish me luck.
I will be out of contact until I reach Iquique which is 3 days from now.
Oh yeah, currently the prevailing winds are mostly towards the north. Precisely where I am headed. I am hoping that they change ever so slightly so that it is at least only a cross wind. The winds here are generally quite strong and play a HUGE role as to my progress and how knackered I feel at the end of the day.
By the way ... all of your messages are read and very much appreciated!!
What a change. It was absolutely fun to descend 4.2 vertical kilometers. However, I am quite exhausted.Interestingly enough today was the first day that it was warm enough to completely ditch my leg and arm warmers, and gloves.
My energy level is a little down. Hopefully, tomorrow I will wake up with my mojo rejuvenated.
Tomorrow is the start of another big challenge - crossing the Northern Chile which is a desert in every nature of the word. I will have to carry enough food and water for the entire day. The objective is to reach the tiny "outpost" of Cuya, about 109 km from Arica. I will then fill my panniers again with pop, bottled water and a few snacks. I will most likely be pitching my tent somewhere in the sand. Wish me luck.
I will be out of contact until I reach Iquique which is 3 days from now.
Oh yeah, currently the prevailing winds are mostly towards the north. Precisely where I am headed. I am hoping that they change ever so slightly so that it is at least only a cross wind. The winds here are generally quite strong and play a HUGE role as to my progress and how knackered I feel at the end of the day.
By the way ... all of your messages are read and very much appreciated!!
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Day 7, Putre, Chile
Was somewhat sad to leave Bolivia behind but I have to put as much pavement behind me as possible and now I am in the tiny village of Putre, Chile (about 2,000 habitants) which is nestled in the western side of the Andean mountains.
The ride today was only about 86 km. 6.5 hrs total time and 4.75 hrs ride time. Had to spent a lot of time leaving customs in Bolivia and entering Chile. Had tremendous head winds at times. To put things in perspective, I was riding downhill in my "granny gear" (small front chain ring). Oh yeah, I forgot, had 1,000 m of elevation gain with a maximum elevation of 4,665 m. Today I really went at a snails pace in spite of the fact that I was trying to do as many circles as I could with my little legs.
Am planning on a monster day tomorrow. Want to make it to the city of Arica which is about 150 km away. There is a lot of elevation loss but if the winds are strong and against me I will shut things down earlier. Vamos a ver lo que va a pasar. Let´s see what happens.
Will try to download a few "highlight" photos.
The ride today was only about 86 km. 6.5 hrs total time and 4.75 hrs ride time. Had to spent a lot of time leaving customs in Bolivia and entering Chile. Had tremendous head winds at times. To put things in perspective, I was riding downhill in my "granny gear" (small front chain ring). Oh yeah, I forgot, had 1,000 m of elevation gain with a maximum elevation of 4,665 m. Today I really went at a snails pace in spite of the fact that I was trying to do as many circles as I could with my little legs.
Am planning on a monster day tomorrow. Want to make it to the city of Arica which is about 150 km away. There is a lot of elevation loss but if the winds are strong and against me I will shut things down earlier. Vamos a ver lo que va a pasar. Let´s see what happens.
Will try to download a few "highlight" photos.
Days 3 to 6, Sajama
Day 3
Made it to the village of Sajama, again, in the high Andean Plains. It was kind of funny because as I reached the turn-off to the village of Sajama I let out a yelp, "Vamos!" because I was making such good time. However, my glee was short lived as the 11 km road was soft sand and I had to virtually push my bike the whole way. On the bright side ... I thought the road was 18 km so it wasn´t all that bad.
Later that afternoon I met up with my guide Sergio Israel. Chatted with a few other climbers and travellers from Switzerland. All was good.
Day 4, 5, 6 ... The "Attempt of Volcan Sajama"
This was a serious objective that I had, an attempt to climb the Volcan Sajama which is 6,542 m and the highest mountain in Bolivia. This was a 3 day venture.
Day 1 was quite easy, we reached "base camp" in after about 3 hours of hiking. Elevation was 4,800 m. We had the assistance of a bushy burro and two young arrieros (burro drivers).
Day 2 we ascended to the "high camp" in only about 3 hours and change. 5,600 m. OK, we did have a porter helping us as well, which is very common. However, the bad news was that all of the beautiful sunshine that we had created large quantities of moisture in the atmosphere from the Bolivian jungle. This is a common occurance this time of the year. Things really started to sock in.
Day 3 we woke up at just before 1 am ("Andean Start") only to find our route covered in mist and clouds. We went back to sleep. Go figure. However, by around 6 am there were some "breaks" in the clouds. We decided to get our butts out of the sleeping bags and to see how far we could ascend. The ascent was much more technical than I thought. We had to do a little ice climbing up a short 50 degree ramp. Was very cool because the ice formed kind of like a series of "shark fins" due to the wind. After the little ice climb we followed a ridge which was a little exposed at times and required a little bit of climbing. We were roped up the whole time. After the technical part was over we started to ascend the main open glacier to the summit, however, both time and the weather were against us.
At about 6,000 m the visibility was very poor. Up higher you could not see anything and below us there were grey threatening clouds everywhere. Retreat!
We went back down to the High Camp, packed up our gear and headed back to the village of Sajama. I must admit it, I was disappointed not to reach the summit but was very happy to at least have attempted the mountain and got past the technical sections. Oh well, next time.
The weather can change VERY quickly in this area. As we descened the entire region was covered in grey clouds with rain at the lower elevations and new fresh snow on all of the volcano peaks in the region. Things looked ugly. HOWEVER, go figure, the following day (Oct 30) it was clear again!
Made it to the village of Sajama, again, in the high Andean Plains. It was kind of funny because as I reached the turn-off to the village of Sajama I let out a yelp, "Vamos!" because I was making such good time. However, my glee was short lived as the 11 km road was soft sand and I had to virtually push my bike the whole way. On the bright side ... I thought the road was 18 km so it wasn´t all that bad.
Later that afternoon I met up with my guide Sergio Israel. Chatted with a few other climbers and travellers from Switzerland. All was good.
Day 4, 5, 6 ... The "Attempt of Volcan Sajama"
This was a serious objective that I had, an attempt to climb the Volcan Sajama which is 6,542 m and the highest mountain in Bolivia. This was a 3 day venture.
Day 1 was quite easy, we reached "base camp" in after about 3 hours of hiking. Elevation was 4,800 m. We had the assistance of a bushy burro and two young arrieros (burro drivers).
Day 2 we ascended to the "high camp" in only about 3 hours and change. 5,600 m. OK, we did have a porter helping us as well, which is very common. However, the bad news was that all of the beautiful sunshine that we had created large quantities of moisture in the atmosphere from the Bolivian jungle. This is a common occurance this time of the year. Things really started to sock in.
Day 3 we woke up at just before 1 am ("Andean Start") only to find our route covered in mist and clouds. We went back to sleep. Go figure. However, by around 6 am there were some "breaks" in the clouds. We decided to get our butts out of the sleeping bags and to see how far we could ascend. The ascent was much more technical than I thought. We had to do a little ice climbing up a short 50 degree ramp. Was very cool because the ice formed kind of like a series of "shark fins" due to the wind. After the little ice climb we followed a ridge which was a little exposed at times and required a little bit of climbing. We were roped up the whole time. After the technical part was over we started to ascend the main open glacier to the summit, however, both time and the weather were against us.
At about 6,000 m the visibility was very poor. Up higher you could not see anything and below us there were grey threatening clouds everywhere. Retreat!
We went back down to the High Camp, packed up our gear and headed back to the village of Sajama. I must admit it, I was disappointed not to reach the summit but was very happy to at least have attempted the mountain and got past the technical sections. Oh well, next time.
The weather can change VERY quickly in this area. As we descened the entire region was covered in grey clouds with rain at the lower elevations and new fresh snow on all of the volcano peaks in the region. Things looked ugly. HOWEVER, go figure, the following day (Oct 30) it was clear again!
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Day 2, Curahuara de Carangas
Day 2 now complete. Pant, pant, pant. Today was tough. 103 km distance, 907 m elevation gain, again all day was spent riding across the undulating High Andean Plains the elevation varied from about 3,850 m to about 4,050 m. The vegetation consists of tufts of grass and sage brush like plants. Fortunately, I had enough food in my panniers and didn´t have to eat any. Had to fight some fierce head winds today. Total time was about 6.5 hours of which 5 hrs 10 min was riding. One flat tire today.
Before I complete this anecdote, remember there are about 3 million llamas in Bolivia.
OK, I´m riding down the highway, minding my own business when I ride by two llamas by the side of the highway. One of them got spooked and started to bolt across the highway. Just in that moment I hear a semi-trailer behind me. I lay on the brakes and go towards the ditch thinking that some carnage was about to happen. Spidey senses were unfortunately right. Fortunately, the llama died instantly. All I can say is that it was not a pretty sight. I was only meters away.
Am now in the village of Curuhuara de Carangas. I am staying in a very nice hostel. Very surprising we are in the middle of the Andean high plains. There was even a cold shower which I took advantage of.
One of the difficulties is getting enough food that is not bread, crackers, cookies or pop. I am hoping to eat some chicken or eggs tonight.
OK, this time, there will not be internet for a while. This was a BIG surprise. The people at this village seem much friendlier than the last one.
Before I complete this anecdote, remember there are about 3 million llamas in Bolivia.
OK, I´m riding down the highway, minding my own business when I ride by two llamas by the side of the highway. One of them got spooked and started to bolt across the highway. Just in that moment I hear a semi-trailer behind me. I lay on the brakes and go towards the ditch thinking that some carnage was about to happen. Spidey senses were unfortunately right. Fortunately, the llama died instantly. All I can say is that it was not a pretty sight. I was only meters away.
Am now in the village of Curuhuara de Carangas. I am staying in a very nice hostel. Very surprising we are in the middle of the Andean high plains. There was even a cold shower which I took advantage of.
One of the difficulties is getting enough food that is not bread, crackers, cookies or pop. I am hoping to eat some chicken or eggs tonight.
OK, this time, there will not be internet for a while. This was a BIG surprise. The people at this village seem much friendlier than the last one.
Day 1, Patacamaya
Day 1 on the bike is now complete. What a great feeling to make it to the first destination.
I am in a high Andean village called Patacamaya. About 3,850 m. A little chilly and blustery during the evenings.
The ride out of La Paz started with a big ascent of which at the start I was uncertain if I had the mustard to even ride it. I did ... slowly. It is a steep grade.
The basic stats for today were ... 107 km distance, 920 m elevation gain, total time about 6.5 hours of which I took about 1 hour for breaks. Most of the day was spent riding around 3,900 to 4,000 m. Lots of undulations. Was on my bike by 6:45 am. I wanted to avoid the traffic leaving La Paz.
Believe me, Patacamaya does not have a wide range of places to stay. Imagine a 1 star hotel and then down grade it a notch or two. That is where I am staying. Needless to say, I hope to start bright and early again tomorrow.
OK, internet access will be non-existant for several days. Still planning an ascent of Volcan Sajama. Vamos a ver como me va. We'll see how it goes.
Signing out for about 1 week. Until around Oct 31.
I did manage to lighten my equipment by about 10 grams. If you guessed that I left my debit card in a instant teller in La Paz you would be right. OK, it was very light headed moment. The instant tellers work differently here. Really confusing. I do have a credit card that also accesses my bank account. I can´t lose this last piece of plastic.
I am in a high Andean village called Patacamaya. About 3,850 m. A little chilly and blustery during the evenings.
The ride out of La Paz started with a big ascent of which at the start I was uncertain if I had the mustard to even ride it. I did ... slowly. It is a steep grade.
The basic stats for today were ... 107 km distance, 920 m elevation gain, total time about 6.5 hours of which I took about 1 hour for breaks. Most of the day was spent riding around 3,900 to 4,000 m. Lots of undulations. Was on my bike by 6:45 am. I wanted to avoid the traffic leaving La Paz.
Believe me, Patacamaya does not have a wide range of places to stay. Imagine a 1 star hotel and then down grade it a notch or two. That is where I am staying. Needless to say, I hope to start bright and early again tomorrow.
OK, internet access will be non-existant for several days. Still planning an ascent of Volcan Sajama. Vamos a ver como me va. We'll see how it goes.
Signing out for about 1 week. Until around Oct 31.
I did manage to lighten my equipment by about 10 grams. If you guessed that I left my debit card in a instant teller in La Paz you would be right. OK, it was very light headed moment. The instant tellers work differently here. Really confusing. I do have a credit card that also accesses my bank account. I can´t lose this last piece of plastic.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
In La Paz, Bolivia
Got in very late this morning .... about 2 am but managed to get up early and assemble the bike and arrange for a little volcano climbing action. I met up with a great guiding agency to arrange for an attempt to ascend Volcan Sajama. I will attempt to ascend the volcano with the assistance of a guide (in about 4 days from now). After making the arrangements we played chess. He also teaches an academy of chess. Yes, I lost every game.
La Paz is very cool, at 3,640 meters what do you expect. Lots of hustle and bustle. Some locals were planning a strike in front of the main plaza. Met a nice fellow who just got out of jail for transporting coke (not coca-cola). Oh, 9 years in a Bolivian jail. I gave him a dollar. He was from the east Bronx.
OK ... tomorrow is SHOW TIME. First day on the bike. Please wish me well. Will try to leave La Paz no later than 7 am in order to avoid the congestion. I am in the middle of downtown.
I may or may not be able to get an internet connection. I will be crossing the cordillera Andes. This will take about 8 o 9 days (three of which will be used to attempt to climb Volcan Sajama).
Here is the route ... La Paz to Patacamaya to Curuhuara de Carangas to the village of Sajama. Then 3 days climbing the mountain. Then descend to the west to Chile! Yahooooooo. Internet connections will be extremely sparce.
Signing out for a few days.
La Paz is very cool, at 3,640 meters what do you expect. Lots of hustle and bustle. Some locals were planning a strike in front of the main plaza. Met a nice fellow who just got out of jail for transporting coke (not coca-cola). Oh, 9 years in a Bolivian jail. I gave him a dollar. He was from the east Bronx.
OK ... tomorrow is SHOW TIME. First day on the bike. Please wish me well. Will try to leave La Paz no later than 7 am in order to avoid the congestion. I am in the middle of downtown.
I may or may not be able to get an internet connection. I will be crossing the cordillera Andes. This will take about 8 o 9 days (three of which will be used to attempt to climb Volcan Sajama).
Here is the route ... La Paz to Patacamaya to Curuhuara de Carangas to the village of Sajama. Then 3 days climbing the mountain. Then descend to the west to Chile! Yahooooooo. Internet connections will be extremely sparce.
Signing out for a few days.
Monday, October 22, 2007
In Transit
I will be arriving in La Paz, Bolivia late tonight. So far the trip has just be planes and stopovers. The cardboard bike box has taken a minor beating but the bike should be OK.
Have made arrangements to talk to a mountaineering guide company in La Paz. Might try an ascent of the Volcano Sajam. Vamos a ver (we will see).
Have made arrangements to talk to a mountaineering guide company in La Paz. Might try an ascent of the Volcano Sajam. Vamos a ver (we will see).
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Downsized gear a little
Took Yuri's advice and left a few items behind. Am now down to about 52 lbs. Will jetison a few more items if need be.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Successful Test Ride
Went for a short test ride this afternoon. It was asked if I have a support vehicle. Well, I wish that I did! The total weight of the gear is 59 lb. That does not include food and water. I took an additional 5 liters of water for the test ride. Total weight was about 70 lb. My initial reaction was hmmmm, this is heavy. The slightest of hills were difficult. Go figure!
On the plus side, all of the gear fit in the panniers with room to a little room to spare for food.
Of note: the total rated load of the pannier racks is 110 lbs.
On the plus side, all of the gear fit in the panniers with room to a little room to spare for food.
Of note: the total rated load of the pannier racks is 110 lbs.
Thursday, October 4, 2007
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Bristling winds at the "Fu"
Winds are from the West. If all holds true, hopefully, I will be faced with cross winds for the next 1000 km. However, today was all headwind.
This is Futaleufú, Chile
OK, it is tiny but its beautiful around here
Crossed into Chile on Dec 11
No problems crossing the border ... even smuggled in a tiny quantity of cheese.
Gravel rode riding towards Chile
This will be my last day in Argentina for a while .. until I hit the deep south
Riding towards Chile, Dec 11
Nice views of the snow covered Ande
These Andes form the border between Argentina & Chile
Riding on Dec 10th. Will be heading west and back into Chile through a mountain pass (Futaleufú) on Dec 11 ... if all goes well
South thru the Lake District, Dec 10
Beautiful ... but ferocious winds
Tiny Hostal in Epuyén, Dec 9
I was the only one there. It´s a little of the beaten track.
South of El Bolsón, Dec 9
Nice Lake District riding
Lake District with the Andes in the background
Nice riding all day long
Typical Lake District Riding
Very enjoyable riding. A little gusty at times though.
Just south of Bariloche, Argentina
The beautiful Lake District
Had a nice Argentinian style steak
I must say it was delicious. People have dinner around 10 pm (or later) around here. Also, from 1 pm to 5 pm most shops are closed.
Entering the town of Bariloche, Argentina
I was very interested in seeing this famous Patagonian city that I have heard so much about.
Riding along the lakeshore into Bariloche
Typical riding for day 44 into Bariloche. Thank goodness, I had a nice tail wind for most of the day.
Descent into Argentina
Was a little chilly. This was the ride from "El Crucero" to the beautiful village of Villa La Angostura. Was a long day. Stayed at a rustic Argentinian hostal.
Welcome to Argentina
As you can see there was plenty of snow at the top of the pass. Was a cold, windy, and rainy descent.
Heading East to Argentina, Day 43
The mountains in the background form the border with Argentina. Ended up passing through the mtns and descending this day.
Short Cut after "El Crucero"
Ended up flatting on this road. Bike could handle it but had to ride slowly .. about 16 to 18 km-hr
Waiting out the rain
Waiting out the rain at an antiquated rural bus stop (Day 41, 40 km out of Pucón)
Another view from the top of Lanin
I forgot to mention, the top of this mountain forms the border with Argentina. Our Guide, Rodrigo, demanded documents from the Argentians that arrived.
View from the Summit
Rodrigo making the final steps to the summit. View looking north along the Andean mtn range
Rodrigo ascending Lanin
My trusty guide leading the way
Villarica in the Shadow of Lanin
Getting close to the summit of Lanin
View of the High Camp
We ended up sheltering ourselves a little better by digging them out a little lower
Snow Caves
We each had our private rooms .. out of snow
Making dinner at the high camp
Rodrigo and Cristian from Rumbo Sur
Volcano Lanin
This is what we climbed
Valley of Yellow Flowers
These flowers only flourish in areas when volcanos have left behind ash or lava
Lake Toro (Huerquehue Park)
Mountains in the background are abou 10 km away from the Argentinian border
Snow on the Trail ... Huerquehue Park
The upper sections in the shade had snow. I thought I was escaping the snow.
Huerquehue Park (more)
Another nice lake
Huerquehue Park (close to Pucón)
One of the nice lakes
Countryside around Pucón
Lush green mountains and some open pastures
Villarica Volcano ... in the clouds
Thought I better take this photo in case the weather didn´t improve
Met two riders from Spain (Basque Region) on the way to Pucón
We ate trail mix together as part of the ritual between fellow cyclists
Villarica Volcano (look closely)
You have to look closely to make out the white cone and the cloud on top looks like an oriental hat!
Plaza de Armas at Temuco
One of the nicer plazas I´ve come across.
A Yellow Bridge and a nice valley.
You´ve heard of a yellow submarine right. Kind of the same?
Main Plaza at Mulchén
Nice place to sit and read for a few minutes
Hotel Mulchén
Very comfy. Didn´t have much time to enjoy at as I left this morning at 6 45 am.
Can you tell it was hot in Mulchén?
Dogs of Mulchén trying to escape the heat.
Locals Swimming at Mulchén
I later joined in the folly and took a dip. Proved to be a nice way to cool off on a hot day.
Bureo River at the village of Mulchén
Looks like clean water to me.
Typical riding close to the village of Mulchén
Around 500 km south of Santiago
Having a snack break
Pod asked, "what I´m on?", well, it is peanut butter, jelly, cheese and bread. And of course the awesome Chilean empanadas. Yum, yum. By the way, this was the first stop after 4 hrs straight riding.
Pit stop at a highway bus stop
Very convenient place to stop to take a quick snack break
Hostel in Chillán
Well, of course I had to stay at this one! .. truth is, it was full but the owners have another one across the street. Comfy & ... cheap.
Hostel in Linares
Got a little disorientated in this pueblo, ended up going for a long afternoon walk.
Plaza de Armas in Curicó
Here is aportion of the main plaza, this is a very quiet pueblo ... shhhhhhh, everybody seems to be having a siesta
At the Hostel in Curicó
In the atrium. This is a budget accomodation but very clean & comfy. By the way, I have started to make reservations in advance to avoid riding around town like a chicken with its head cut-off.
Roadside Fruit Stand
About 150 km South of Santiago. Fresh fruit & brooms for sale ... some type of "package deal" I suppose
LLama in Rancagua
Or was this an Alpaca? I don´t know but it was furry and cute.
Café con Piernas ("Coffee with Legs" in Santiago)
I am still trying to figure out why they call it that ..... great cup of coffee though
Sunset in Santiago
Yes, that is the Andes Mountains off to the East
Barrio (Neighborhood) "Paris London"
Just outside my Hotel enjoying a bit of the good life
Street vendors in Santiago
They were just selling books. This area is very close to the Univ. of Chile. I guess, this area has a high proportion of bookworms
One of the main streets in Santiago
I arrived on this street. It actually wasn´t too bad negotiating traffic.
Shoreline at Viña del Mar
I was kind of thinking that Chile was leaving their west flank wide open ... until I noticed these guns. Good on you Chile! Defend the beaches of Viña!
Pelican in Flight
I figure dogs shouldn´t dominate all of the animal photos.
More Chilean Coast
Very pleasant riding.
Chilean Coast, Day 28
I liked this yellow house
Village of Papudo
Unfortunately, I couldn´t enjoy the beach as I had to get the bike fixed
Welding (mechanical failure on Day 27)
Let´s hope that it "holds".
Preparing to Weld
Patrick & his helper Felipe
"Volker" from Germany
I met this other German solo cyclist, we had a coffee together, just after this photo he lit up a smoke before starting his ride. Must be a European thing.
Chilean Coast Close to Papudo
I liked this little cove
A Nice Beach 250 km North of Santiago
The highway is flanked by a barbed wire fence. If in a predicament, I think I could squeeze through and set up the infamous pup-tent.
Riding Along the Coast
By the way, the Panamerican is now a four-lane highway. It is in extraordinarily good condition.
Riding on the Panamerican Highway
The route between Termas and Los Vilos was constantly descending and ascending small valleys like this.
Trip Planning Over a Cappucino
This is where I nearly cried when I realized that I am still just scratching the surface.
Steets of La Serena
Just off the Main Plaza de Armas
Revelling in the Streets of La Serena
I think that this was a promotion for some theater. They seemed to be enjoying themselves though.
Back to the Chilean Coast
The city of La Serena is about 35 km south of this point along the coast
One BIG Tonka Toy
Mining is a HUGE industry in Chile. Gotta be real careful when you see one of these coming at you. As a matter of fact, there was a convoy of 3 lead by a police car about an hour later. I yielded.
Right in the Fog bank
Yes, at this point in time I quickly turned around and rode bank up to clear skies and waited until the fog burned off.
Fog Bank in the Valley
"La camachaca" is what they call this thick as pea soup (but tastes different) fog.
Early morning riding through the coastal range
The terrain has now changed and is supporting some vegation. Looks to me like something out of those Spaghetti Westerns with Clint Eastwood.
At the Pensión at Incahuasi
Little Simon is feeding the geese that were just outside my room.
Entering the Village of Incahuasi
As shown from the sign it appears that there is some woman who plays some strange shaped cello. Hmmm, I later learned that symbol meant Arts & Crafts. Learn something new every day!
Breakfast at the Posada
OK, I gotta come clean, this was my second breakfast of the day ... after about 2 or 3 hours of riding
Typical Posada along the Highway
This pooch was not interested in terrorizing gringos ... at least not in the early morning
Camping at Playa Flamenco
This little "Big Agnes Tent" has served me well so far. Oh, those yesteryears of Boy Scouts...
A little sunbathing at Playa Flamenco
Too chicken to go into the water though
Leaving the Atacama Desert
Had a nice descent here!
Dog Day Afternoon at Posada Bahía Taltal
And the next morning as I was leaving they were wide awake ... had to run the gauntlet. Didn´t get bit though. They seem to enjoy intimidating gringos.
Posada Bahía Taltal
Getting back to civilization!
Sunset in the Atacama Desert
It got chilly at night but nothing compared to a Canadian winter
Camping High in the Atacama Desert
I wished I had built the windbreak another 2 feet high. It got gusty!!
Typical Atacama Desert
It isn´t all flat. It was hot though!!
The Camera Fell before the timer went off ......
And here is how pi--ed off I got. (ps, large cavernous things are my nostrils)
Taking a break in the Atacama Desert
This was one of those time when pop leaked inside my panniers. I was not impressed.
Mano del Desierto by Mario Irarrazabal
The rest of the body apparently is another 300 m below the earth
The Main Promenade in Antofagasta
And the search was on for a hotel .. it sure took a while .... big Empanada convention going on?
Entering Antofagasta
fighting traffic ... shoulder check, signal, lane change left.
Sunset at Hornitos
just about beddy-bye time
Camping at Hornitos
Yes, I finally figured out how to use the auto-timer
More Camping at Hornitos
No charge for camping, just hide out behind this big rock
More Chilean Coast
another pleasant view from today´s ride
Chilean Pacific Coast
Enjoyable views during riding along the coast
Strange things at gas stations
Uncle and nephew from Argentina touring throughout S.A.
Camping along the Coast at Rio Loa
After nodding off I was kind of wondering about the high tide mark.
Northern Desert
Yes, it is flat and sandy
Darryl in Arica, Chile
behind me is the "muro" where the Chileans defeated the Peruvians in an infamous territorial battle
From Putre to Arica
This snaked all the way down to the valley below
Entering Chile
Leaving Bolivian border
Cholita guarding bike
Attempt of Sajama
High Camp
Ridge on Sajama
My Guide Sergio, up the ice ramp
Leaving Sajama behind
High Andean Plains
fixing a flat
Images from Bolivia
In Patacamaya.
Packing List (final)
